- Thread starter Richiew
- Start date
you can always add a plus 1 cheater to your mask if the distance isnt quite right ,,
Some more practice milling. Just as well, as I'd do it a lot different next time.
Workpiece flipped over and the angle milled on the other side.
Marking out and subsequent milling was super shoddy but I was more concerned with cutting the angle to the correct depth than the width of the passes which don't match. The edge finder and DRO will take care of this next time.
Set up again. Next time I will set up the work along the Y axis so I can lock the Y axis and feed the cut with the x axis. There's no lock on the x axis and I was feeding the cut with the Y which leaves things too loose for my liking. Will need an adaptor plate to pick up the t slots. I have an angle plate that I can mount the work to.
Cuts
Got part of the way along and realised I should have cut to full depth part of the way in, otherwise I would struggle to match the cuts on the other side. Had to pick up the channels again with the DRO
and go back along.
This is as far as I've got tonight. I'm happy that I can do this now as long as I concentrate and take my time. Eight sides to mill. Glad it's ally and not steel. I'll finish this one and see how it looks. This is one of the aims of the project, to get some hours on the mill.
Workpiece flipped over and the angle milled on the other side.
Marking out and subsequent milling was super shoddy but I was more concerned with cutting the angle to the correct depth than the width of the passes which don't match. The edge finder and DRO will take care of this next time.
Set up again. Next time I will set up the work along the Y axis so I can lock the Y axis and feed the cut with the x axis. There's no lock on the x axis and I was feeding the cut with the Y which leaves things too loose for my liking. Will need an adaptor plate to pick up the t slots. I have an angle plate that I can mount the work to.
Cuts
Got part of the way along and realised I should have cut to full depth part of the way in, otherwise I would struggle to match the cuts on the other side. Had to pick up the channels again with the DRO
and go back along.
This is as far as I've got tonight. I'm happy that I can do this now as long as I concentrate and take my time. Eight sides to mill. Glad it's ally and not steel. I'll finish this one and see how it looks. This is one of the aims of the project, to get some hours on the mill.
Quick session of milling after work.
Just as well that I stopped when I did yesterday, as otherwise I wouldn't have anywhere left to indicate off. Something to remember in future.
I indicated the angle plate square, but still indicated the workpiece top and side to ensure it was aligned one mounted. I'm learning that the important thing is time spent on the set up.
I was a bit lazy and didn't use an edge finder, just ran the milling cutter into the slots and rotated by hand to ensure it was centred. Top height was done in a similar fashion scratching the surface, same for the vertical face. Cuts start again.
Pretty happy. There's the odd hand slip on the wheels evident in the cuts, and on odd occasions the cutter has pulled itself into the work in a climb milling fashion.
It still needs de-ragging but I had to stop to make a start on dinner.
I might be under thinking this, but it is a glorified reed valve in a way. I think the important bits are the angle and even-ness of the wedge. Especially at the narrow end. The rest is just a lattice support and milled gaps to let the air flow. Probably shouldn't sweat the details too much on this.
A reminder. This is just a practice piece. It's not part of the final engine. Learned lots doing this and happy to make the mistakes on it.
Just as well that I stopped when I did yesterday, as otherwise I wouldn't have anywhere left to indicate off. Something to remember in future.
I indicated the angle plate square, but still indicated the workpiece top and side to ensure it was aligned one mounted. I'm learning that the important thing is time spent on the set up.
I was a bit lazy and didn't use an edge finder, just ran the milling cutter into the slots and rotated by hand to ensure it was centred. Top height was done in a similar fashion scratching the surface, same for the vertical face. Cuts start again.
Pretty happy. There's the odd hand slip on the wheels evident in the cuts, and on odd occasions the cutter has pulled itself into the work in a climb milling fashion.
It still needs de-ragging but I had to stop to make a start on dinner.
I might be under thinking this, but it is a glorified reed valve in a way. I think the important bits are the angle and even-ness of the wedge. Especially at the narrow end. The rest is just a lattice support and milled gaps to let the air flow. Probably shouldn't sweat the details too much on this.
A reminder. This is just a practice piece. It's not part of the final engine. Learned lots doing this and happy to make the mistakes on it.
redlig
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Keep at it . It gets much easier ******************************************************************************************************************************eventually.Looks like an interesting challenge. I've just bought a tig welder myself, and found it is nowhere near as easy as I thought it would be.
Got back on with this today. I've been busy with other house and garden related stuff but I've had time today to test out my new glasses while welding.
Bought this size 12 cup for decent gas coverage. It seems to work well and I enjoy being able to have the extra tungsten stick out. A clear cup might give better illumination so I'm considering one as it can be pretty dark at times at low amperages.
Had plenty of practice tacking. I've learned to set plenty of tacks to keep both pieces at the same height and prevent warpage. I started with tacks only at the ends but it wasn't satisfactory as the material moved too much.
1.5mm 304 stainless. 10 litres per minute, 59 amps. 2.4 lanthanated tungsten size 12 cup, 8 seconds post flow. 1.2mm 308 filler.
I was using my Sherman (Jasic) tig. Lovely machine. The cooling fan rarely kicked in.
I was just feeling out the new glasses really. Found I had to lean back a little to get good focus and depth perception. Reminded me slightly of my Dad trying to read a menu.
I found leaving a very small gap helped with penetration. About half a mm.
Stainless wire brushed.
Reverse
Happy with the colour on this one and the small HAZ, although it does look a bit cold. Penetration was lacking on this one. Attempt numbers are showing on the side in chalk.
Another attempt. Post wire brush.
Reverse.
Fillet attempt at the end of the session. Quite an achievement getting a size 12 cup into the fillet. Ran out of filler three quarters of the way along, hence the untidy lump. Pretty colours. I know this is oxidation, it looks nice though.
More practice needed but I am getting the feel of it again. It's much easier once I get my arc length set. I used to get closer to get a better view but now I have to move further away. The difference is only a few inches. It is still comfortable and further away from the fumes which is no bad thing.
I have some mild steel to practice with in future but I wanted to try the new cup out on stainless today. Sorry Brad. I will do what I'm told in future.
Bought this size 12 cup for decent gas coverage. It seems to work well and I enjoy being able to have the extra tungsten stick out. A clear cup might give better illumination so I'm considering one as it can be pretty dark at times at low amperages.
Had plenty of practice tacking. I've learned to set plenty of tacks to keep both pieces at the same height and prevent warpage. I started with tacks only at the ends but it wasn't satisfactory as the material moved too much.
1.5mm 304 stainless. 10 litres per minute, 59 amps. 2.4 lanthanated tungsten size 12 cup, 8 seconds post flow. 1.2mm 308 filler.
I was using my Sherman (Jasic) tig. Lovely machine. The cooling fan rarely kicked in.
I was just feeling out the new glasses really. Found I had to lean back a little to get good focus and depth perception. Reminded me slightly of my Dad trying to read a menu.
I found leaving a very small gap helped with penetration. About half a mm.
Stainless wire brushed.
Reverse
Happy with the colour on this one and the small HAZ, although it does look a bit cold. Penetration was lacking on this one. Attempt numbers are showing on the side in chalk.
Another attempt. Post wire brush.
Reverse.
Fillet attempt at the end of the session. Quite an achievement getting a size 12 cup into the fillet. Ran out of filler three quarters of the way along, hence the untidy lump. Pretty colours. I know this is oxidation, it looks nice though.
More practice needed but I am getting the feel of it again. It's much easier once I get my arc length set. I used to get closer to get a better view but now I have to move further away. The difference is only a few inches. It is still comfortable and further away from the fumes which is no bad thing.
I have some mild steel to practice with in future but I wanted to try the new cup out on stainless today. Sorry Brad. I will do what I'm told in future.
This is more for my future reference than anything. I found it handy the other day to look back over at how I'd milled that aluminium part as I'd sort of forgotten how I'd approached it.
Anyway, more welding practice but this time in 3D!
Got the roller out and cut some 1.5mm strips on the bandsaw.
I started rolling strips individually, but realised that it made sense to roll them as a pair. They will be welded together so need to match.
This is them together. The set on the left were rolled together, the set on the right were rolled individually. The left set are a better match. I did those last so there was also some improvement from learning as I did the first two.
Clamped up for tacking.
Another lesson learned tonight. Don't try to tack on the edge. It melts away too easily.
A further lesson. 59 amps is far too hot when I'm not welding on the flat with a dirty great big heat sink underneath the part.
I had used more or less the same settings as in practice. 59 amps. 1.6mm gold tungsten 1.2mm 308L wire.
It should have been obvious, but no.
Second attempt. Tacking has improved. Hope for me yet.
Welding hasn't improved. Tried 45 amps. It was too cold. I touched down after a few dabs so stopped and spun the part around so I could have another go with a clean start from the other edge. Not pretty but this is what practice is for.
Penetration not great. More to come though.
Anyway, more welding practice but this time in 3D!
Got the roller out and cut some 1.5mm strips on the bandsaw.
I started rolling strips individually, but realised that it made sense to roll them as a pair. They will be welded together so need to match.
This is them together. The set on the left were rolled together, the set on the right were rolled individually. The left set are a better match. I did those last so there was also some improvement from learning as I did the first two.
Clamped up for tacking.
Another lesson learned tonight. Don't try to tack on the edge. It melts away too easily.
A further lesson. 59 amps is far too hot when I'm not welding on the flat with a dirty great big heat sink underneath the part.
I had used more or less the same settings as in practice. 59 amps. 1.6mm gold tungsten 1.2mm 308L wire.
It should have been obvious, but no.
Second attempt. Tacking has improved. Hope for me yet.
Welding hasn't improved. Tried 45 amps. It was too cold. I touched down after a few dabs so stopped and spun the part around so I could have another go with a clean start from the other edge. Not pretty but this is what practice is for.
Penetration not great. More to come though.
Two more attempts to improve.
Tacks on number 3. Lovely.
49 amps. I've lost my French chalk. Fairly happy with how this one welded.
Thought the penetration was ok but looking at the pictures I maybe need a couple more amps. Sugaring is evident. I will have to practice with purging soon.
Last one. Tacks going backwards.
Not too bad a weld. I need to get out of the habit of moving closer when I can't see well. I need to move further away.
All ready to have a go welding on a curve later in the week. Will be doing a couple of inches at a time, if that. Will bump the amps up a tiny bit and see how it goes.
Tacks on number 3. Lovely.
49 amps. I've lost my French chalk. Fairly happy with how this one welded.
Thought the penetration was ok but looking at the pictures I maybe need a couple more amps. Sugaring is evident. I will have to practice with purging soon.
Last one. Tacks going backwards.
Not too bad a weld. I need to get out of the habit of moving closer when I can't see well. I need to move further away.
All ready to have a go welding on a curve later in the week. Will be doing a couple of inches at a time, if that. Will bump the amps up a tiny bit and see how it goes.
Watched a few Youtube videos tonight and realised that I had been over dabbing occasionally. Sometimes less is more. I had another go.
49 amps 1.6mm filler rod this time. 1.6mm gold tungsten number 12 cup.
It's a shame that there isn't a single lap joint in this project. I wish my butt welds were this good. Something to aim towards at least. Welding is perishable skill but it is coming back to me.
49 amps 1.6mm filler rod this time. 1.6mm gold tungsten number 12 cup.
It's a shame that there isn't a single lap joint in this project. I wish my butt welds were this good. Something to aim towards at least. Welding is perishable skill but it is coming back to me.
CompoSimmonite
Member
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- Werrington, Staffordshire Moorlands.
When I used to go to the evening engineering sessions at the local collage one chap build a gas turbine engine that ran on propane as a prototype for use in a lawnmower ! He had it running in the workshop until the vanes on the alloy rotor melted but it was enough to prove concept.
Funnily enough
Getting one in Feb or March - barn find literally. Going to see which is better - this one or mine - and then sell the other - I will forget so nag me
Thought I'd practice some butt welds today as they are what's needed for this project. Butt welds are much trickier, especially in 1.2mm mild steel as below.
Started with 39 amps but it was too cold and the weld pool was too sluggish.
Bumped up to 45 amps. Much better.
Nice flat profile.
Full penetration on the reverse.
Another attempt.
Reverse side.
Pictures can be deceiving. The profile is much flatter than it looks. The material is very small. The block of steel I am welding on is 150mm square.
Pretty happy with these. I don't panic as much as I used to. Instead, I slow down and concentrate on developing the weld pool at the start and getting moving. After that, I just concentrate on the weld pool. Dabbing is secondary, I don't panic dab like I used to. Fewer dabs per weld now.
Started with 39 amps but it was too cold and the weld pool was too sluggish.
Bumped up to 45 amps. Much better.
Nice flat profile.
Full penetration on the reverse.
Another attempt.
Reverse side.
Pictures can be deceiving. The profile is much flatter than it looks. The material is very small. The block of steel I am welding on is 150mm square.
Pretty happy with these. I don't panic as much as I used to. Instead, I slow down and concentrate on developing the weld pool at the start and getting moving. After that, I just concentrate on the weld pool. Dabbing is secondary, I don't panic dab like I used to. Fewer dabs per weld now.
Rolled up some mild steel rings. I had to partially remove that plate on the front of the roller as it was interfering with the strips and preventing them pulling through.
I thought I'd need to drop the amps on these as there's no heat sink. I tried 39 amps and it was too cold. Went back to 45 and it seemed much better.
39 amps. Too much heat build up due to slow travel.
45 amps. Much neater and tighter HAZ. That lumpy bit two thirds of the way along was due to a big tack.
Inside.
Again the profile is flatter than it first appears.
Circumferential welds next. Maybe tomorrow.
I thought I'd need to drop the amps on these as there's no heat sink. I tried 39 amps and it was too cold. Went back to 45 and it seemed much better.
39 amps. Too much heat build up due to slow travel.
45 amps. Much neater and tighter HAZ. That lumpy bit two thirds of the way along was due to a big tack.
Inside.
Again the profile is flatter than it first appears.
Circumferential welds next. Maybe tomorrow.
Over the weekend I went down the rabbit hole which is pulse tig. It is supposed to be good for thin sheet. I've done it before and when the settings are right it does a very good job or at least makes things easier.
There was a welding video of Jody's suggesting for 18 gauge steel, 110 amps 30% on time 5% background 1.5 pulses per second was a good setting. This was with lots of backing/chill bars.
I practiced this on the flat, but to be honest, it wasn't any neater than my standard welds.
Mild steel rings set up for tacking.
Tacked and ready for welding.
Oh dear. Not pretty. After some experimentation, I settled on 106 amps and one pulse per second. It seemed to be the most comfortable. Pulse does help me to weld on a curved surface. I can worry less about dipping and attempt a bit of laywire. This allows me to concentrate on arc length and watch the puddle more. It still looks terrible.
Penetration was fine but so it should be on 1.2mm mild steel.
I'm not enjoying tigging on 1.2mm mild. My stainless welding looks much better. It was good experience for welding on a curved surface though and the material is cheap.
After all this experimentation I've decided to make the jet out of the thickest stainless I can manage, to make the welding easier. The manufactured exhaust tube end is already 1.5mm thick. I had rolled the piece for the front end in 1.2mm so I thought I'd have a go with 1.5mm as the material had been bought and paid for anyway.
This is 1.5mm stainless. I cut it oversize with some electric shears and then trimmed it on bandsaw. A flap disc was run down the sawn edge to even it out at touch but the bandsaw cuts were pretty straight.
A bit of shifting the material to the middle and a lot of rolling later we have this. Tough going. The middle cone-shaped piece that I need to roll next is 25% wider. I anticipate it will be a struggle.
Hopefully this thicker stainless will produce an easier and prettier weld.
This glass number 12 cup arrived today. Gave it a quick try, seems nice. I think it casts fewer shadows and gives more light. That's the idea anyway.
There was a welding video of Jody's suggesting for 18 gauge steel, 110 amps 30% on time 5% background 1.5 pulses per second was a good setting. This was with lots of backing/chill bars.
I practiced this on the flat, but to be honest, it wasn't any neater than my standard welds.
Mild steel rings set up for tacking.
Tacked and ready for welding.
Oh dear. Not pretty. After some experimentation, I settled on 106 amps and one pulse per second. It seemed to be the most comfortable. Pulse does help me to weld on a curved surface. I can worry less about dipping and attempt a bit of laywire. This allows me to concentrate on arc length and watch the puddle more. It still looks terrible.
Penetration was fine but so it should be on 1.2mm mild steel.
I'm not enjoying tigging on 1.2mm mild. My stainless welding looks much better. It was good experience for welding on a curved surface though and the material is cheap.
After all this experimentation I've decided to make the jet out of the thickest stainless I can manage, to make the welding easier. The manufactured exhaust tube end is already 1.5mm thick. I had rolled the piece for the front end in 1.2mm so I thought I'd have a go with 1.5mm as the material had been bought and paid for anyway.
This is 1.5mm stainless. I cut it oversize with some electric shears and then trimmed it on bandsaw. A flap disc was run down the sawn edge to even it out at touch but the bandsaw cuts were pretty straight.
A bit of shifting the material to the middle and a lot of rolling later we have this. Tough going. The middle cone-shaped piece that I need to roll next is 25% wider. I anticipate it will be a struggle.
Hopefully this thicker stainless will produce an easier and prettier weld.
This glass number 12 cup arrived today. Gave it a quick try, seems nice. I think it casts fewer shadows and gives more light. That's the idea anyway.
