- Thread starter Tomlt
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brightspark
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the skys the limit for for breaking in to somwhere .locks are to stop honest people and extra security is to slow down the determined burglar that wants 2 be in and will be no matter what. burglar alarms and more secure doors and windows will give damage limitation to what can be stolen in a short space of time . most scrotes are opertunist thieves and most people are easy targets . not a lot keeps the profesional burglar out who is determined to relieve u of your property
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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Not garage, but motor theft... to show how fast things were moving in the early 90s, a couple of stories from my time in auto security.
At the time, the 'BEST' immobiliser was the 4-circuit Vecta, which had an insurance guarantee on it (if your car was stolen with a Vecta on, they'd buy you a new one, or some such).
Anyway, one day we got a (then almost new) Nissan 300ZX twin-turbo full-fat monster in; it belonged to a local businessman whose house had been burgled and the spare car keys and immobilier fob stolen. The car had been to Nissan for new locks and we ripped out the old alarm and Vecta and fitted a new one. Afterwards I sat and dug the electronics out of the housing and than traced the entire circuit to find that it was a very simple design (called a window comparator). The staggering thing was that the whole thing relied on one transistor keeping a relay activated. We figured that as the board was a sug fit in its box, if you drilled through the box at a precise point, you'd take out the transistor, the relay would drop out and the car could be started in the usual scumbag way.
Two days later the Vecta sales rep. appeared with a Mk 2 version, now with the circuit board submerged in resin in a cylindrical housing so you had no way of knowing which way round the board was. He admitted that the scrotes had figured out exactly the same solution as we had - scrotes with electronics knowledge, then.
Moss and many of the alarm manufacturers up to the early 90s used a particular pair of ICs (a coded transmitter and receiver) with a certain number of combinations, each fob and alarm unit being coded to each other by simply cutting tracks on the circuit boards to create the same code.
Two things were quickly worked out by the light-fingered ones: first the off-air 'code grabbers' that were basically a radio receiver and memory chip that would detect the signal from your fob and store the code so they could come back later and replay the code to get your car.
Secondly, because the code was a binary number it was possible to use a circuit (that had actually been printed in an electronics magazine!) wired to almost any car alarm remote to sequentially step the transmitter chip through every possible combination at the rate of about three a second. All they would do is park in a car park, fire up the transmitter and see which car flashed its indicators at them as the correct code was received. Then they'd either get the car or the stereo, and in some cases the feeky chuckers even re-armed the alarm system afterwards.
I built a similar device but with a legitimate purpose: we used to get customers who'd lost their fob and couldn't get the immobiliser to disarm to let them drive home. A few minutes with my box of tricks and they were away
The point of this being: however crafty you think you are, there's some scumbag with plenty of technical ability just waiting for a chance to take you on; it's not all jemmies and bolt-croppers.
Luckily the alarm manufacturers moved onto random code encryption with millions of permutations rather than the few thousand they had back then.
At the time, the 'BEST' immobiliser was the 4-circuit Vecta, which had an insurance guarantee on it (if your car was stolen with a Vecta on, they'd buy you a new one, or some such).
Anyway, one day we got a (then almost new) Nissan 300ZX twin-turbo full-fat monster in; it belonged to a local businessman whose house had been burgled and the spare car keys and immobilier fob stolen. The car had been to Nissan for new locks and we ripped out the old alarm and Vecta and fitted a new one. Afterwards I sat and dug the electronics out of the housing and than traced the entire circuit to find that it was a very simple design (called a window comparator). The staggering thing was that the whole thing relied on one transistor keeping a relay activated. We figured that as the board was a sug fit in its box, if you drilled through the box at a precise point, you'd take out the transistor, the relay would drop out and the car could be started in the usual scumbag way.
Two days later the Vecta sales rep. appeared with a Mk 2 version, now with the circuit board submerged in resin in a cylindrical housing so you had no way of knowing which way round the board was. He admitted that the scrotes had figured out exactly the same solution as we had - scrotes with electronics knowledge, then.
Moss and many of the alarm manufacturers up to the early 90s used a particular pair of ICs (a coded transmitter and receiver) with a certain number of combinations, each fob and alarm unit being coded to each other by simply cutting tracks on the circuit boards to create the same code.
Two things were quickly worked out by the light-fingered ones: first the off-air 'code grabbers' that were basically a radio receiver and memory chip that would detect the signal from your fob and store the code so they could come back later and replay the code to get your car.
Secondly, because the code was a binary number it was possible to use a circuit (that had actually been printed in an electronics magazine!) wired to almost any car alarm remote to sequentially step the transmitter chip through every possible combination at the rate of about three a second. All they would do is park in a car park, fire up the transmitter and see which car flashed its indicators at them as the correct code was received. Then they'd either get the car or the stereo, and in some cases the feeky chuckers even re-armed the alarm system afterwards.
I built a similar device but with a legitimate purpose: we used to get customers who'd lost their fob and couldn't get the immobiliser to disarm to let them drive home. A few minutes with my box of tricks and they were away
The point of this being: however crafty you think you are, there's some scumbag with plenty of technical ability just waiting for a chance to take you on; it's not all jemmies and bolt-croppers.
Luckily the alarm manufacturers moved onto random code encryption with millions of permutations rather than the few thousand they had back then.
BeeJay99
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Story in today's paper...
"Police have told residents to stop putting wire mesh on their garden shed windows - because they could be sued if a burglar is injured."
Should I take the glass out as well as I notice it can be a bit sharp when broken. And maybe I should put my posessions in easily transportable boxes clearly marked with the weight of the contents in case they hurt their backs? While I'm at it I'll leave the locks undone in case I get sued for causing them inconvenience.
"Police have told residents to stop putting wire mesh on their garden shed windows - because they could be sued if a burglar is injured."
Should I take the glass out as well as I notice it can be a bit sharp when broken. And maybe I should put my posessions in easily transportable boxes clearly marked with the weight of the contents in case they hurt their backs? While I'm at it I'll leave the locks undone in case I get sued for causing them inconvenience.
brightspark
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if they get in my garage door theres a long wet drop 
i leave the 1st 3 planks of me pit off and its full of water . oops 4got to put them on officer 
i leave the 1st 3 planks of me pit off and its full of water . oops 4got to put them on officer if they get in my garage door theres a long wet drop
lol trouble is one day it will catch you out.
me personally, ive got a good strong door, with 2 high quality locks (both dead locks) and an oak frame bolted and resin'd in.
and then i have strong shutters that are anchored to the floor at 3 points.
no windows. i have sky lights for ambient light in the garage.
i also have it alarmed.
then if all that fails, ive got this white thing with curly teeth
The inside bottom corners of my garage doors are reinforced with pop-riveted 1mm and 2mm sheet metal fabrications. Each corner is fastened with a "security" wheel stud, located deep in a tube sleeve, that engages a captive nut in an angle bracket rawlbolted to the floor inside the garage. The wheel studs can only be unscrewed with the matching special socket. It does take some time to tighten them, but this method stops the bottom of the door being pulled outwards and it prevents the door being folded inwards or outwards.
