Wildefalcon
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Nothing ventured nothing gained. Keep going.
- Thread starter GRW
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Wildefalcon
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- 2,540
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- Gloucestershire, England
A blank canvas.
Bit more blank than I wanted really. Cutting out the floor has given much improved access.... but the chassis section just behind the front leaf spring mount (left of pic showing chassis) was rotten on the inside.... so I've had to get a bit brutal with the angry grinder - and I've pretty much got a whole U section to replace.
I've jacked both leaf spring eyes now, so (hopefully) the chassis will stay square with a chunk missing till I can make a new section & weld it in (maybe in a weeks time, but I've more cutting out to do yet).
Wildefalcon
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Yep, and a long spirit level or similar, to check all is square: very easy to weld that all back up out of true, with the consequential rapid tyre wear.
Used new plasma to get into awkward spot and cut out some rust blown chassis section in an awkward spot this am.
Gonna have to try and weld some new bits in soon
.
Wish me luck - I'm still very much the novice self-taught bodger - so fingers crossed, cos I've never tackled something like this on a rusty chassis before!
Gonna have to try and weld some new bits in soon
.Wish me luck - I'm still very much the novice self-taught bodger - so fingers crossed, cos I've never tackled something like this on a rusty chassis before!
It's a start...... and maybe the bit I was most worried about. Had to do a lot of awkward cutting and grinding towards the spring mount area - as I was determined to try and get something strong to weld off/to, and it was a bit fausty!
I'd taken the advice given - to get something in there and get some stability.
OK..... I'm the first to put my hands up and admit it ain't pretty and won't win me any kudos - but I'll settle for strong and functional - which I think it is.
(The bit underneath is for the chop btw - hence the need for this bit done, so the chassis rail wasn't totally in half).
Glad to get that monkey off my back - and glad I got my Oxford 180 too, it's made my life as easy as it could be today (& I need all the help I can get!l).
I'd taken the advice given - to get something in there and get some stability.
OK..... I'm the first to put my hands up and admit it ain't pretty and won't win me any kudos - but I'll settle for strong and functional - which I think it is.
(The bit underneath is for the chop btw - hence the need for this bit done, so the chassis rail wasn't totally in half).
Glad to get that monkey off my back - and glad I got my Oxford 180 too, it's made my life as easy as it could be today (& I need all the help I can get!l).
Wildefalcon
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I've done much worse. Today.
But have you good good bright lights on the work? Do you steady your hand with your other hand?
i ask, because it looks like my welding before I started slowing down and only pulling the trigger when I was welding in the right place, in that I could see the work, and had the torch in exactly the right place, and was happy to do a spot. Move. Do a spot.
But have you good good bright lights on the work? Do you steady your hand with your other hand?
i ask, because it looks like my welding before I started slowing down and only pulling the trigger when I was welding in the right place, in that I could see the work, and had the torch in exactly the right place, and was happy to do a spot. Move. Do a spot.
Wildefalcon
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But, yes, clean it up, looks passable.
The lighting wasn't great tbh - also the welding on the inside outer face of the chassis plate - was done from above, waving the torch through a narrow space in the floor - so awkward position, awkward access and poor visibility all at the same time.
It would have been better to weld it lying underneath the van.... but its pee'd down all day & van is on the drive - so sod that!
I should be able to get to it at a later point & tidy it up a bit - but I needed that section solid so I can progress on the rest of the chassis rail 2moro.
I've never had a bash at something as much as this - so I'm not the best and learning as I go & making mistakes.... but I'm hopeful I can fix it.
Wildefalcon
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Yep, awkward and poor visibility. Tough circumstances, I feel your pain. Make sure that the weld is penetrating the old and new steel, not just sitting on top. If it has melted the old and the new together it's strong, otherwise it's dangerous.
I did have decent penetration..... but paranoia saw me lay weld on both sides with plenty of Amps.
The tatty side done thru the hole is part welds needed, and on the tail-end belt & braces on the vertical weld.
(Given its structural & my novice status I'm trying to make a strong job of it - even if I don't go about it the way an experienced welder would).
I'm thinking to add inner bracing using some 30mm box to add extra muscle to my chassis rail repair as well - just to he on the safe side).
Its a strange feeling brushing ones once prized possession up off the floor and binning it...
Keep at it, don't weld in the wind, and if you're lying underneath welding, stick something in your ear to stop the hot sparky bits going in there - it hurts and will freak you out.
Be absolutly sure you've finished as much chassis as you can before welding the floor in, and think a bit about shrinkage. Everyone has their ways, but I allways weld one end fully, wait for it to cool, then weld the adjacent end - fully. Then the other two. That way you halve your shrinkage. And have a small lap, on the last two sides at least, unless your spot/hole filling, in which case use a wide lap.
Thanks - useful tips
.Never thought about shrinkage.
That section though has an overlap on the angle cut (forward) end - as I was able to retain the outer steel there (but had to cut out the inner as it had rust-blown).
I drilled 4x 6mm holes in the new plate there, and plug-welded it to the existing, then seam welded the edge inside, and again on the overlap outside.
The other end was a butt-weld & I left a small gap, and then welded it from the inside and outside.
Wildefalcon
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Also think about how to get anti corrosion wax in there.
I will be able to get at the repaired area from above before replacing the floor, as it's a "U" section.I'm not sure what to use though. I had thought to treat the steel (inside & out) with Vactan (as I have some), and then overpaint with Bilt Hamber Electrox (I've a tin of brush-on & I bought an aerosol for the hard to get at bits). I've found the BH to be good at resisting corrosion.
I might have some waxoyl left as well.
Wildefalcon
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I've been using 2k epoxy zinc phosphate, on exterior, followed by aluminium rich epoxy mastic and a top coat, all non iso 2k.
I'll let you know how it works in twenty years time.
Inside inaccessible sections I'll use dynamic s50.
Might use raptor on aluminium.
I'll let you know how it works in twenty years time.
Inside inaccessible sections I'll use dynamic s50.
Might use raptor on aluminium.
Painfully slow (that's me no doubt) - and sent ages cutting out more rust blown crud. Cut the bottom out at the front spring end and welded in 3mm plate section. I've also cut back more by the fuel tank and rear spring end, as it was rust-blown too.
I have managed to bend & cut the 3mm plates for the new "side" of the chassis rail - I had only just enough 3mm plate (offcut blagged from work), but got away with it.
The forward section is welded-in, and the aft section is cut-to size and ready.... but I've had enough - it's a foul day & I've got to wipe down and put away all the gear.
I have managed to bend & cut the 3mm plates for the new "side" of the chassis rail - I had only just enough 3mm plate (offcut blagged from work), but got away with it.
The forward section is welded-in, and the aft section is cut-to size and ready.... but I've had enough - it's a foul day & I've got to wipe down and put away all the gear.
Wildefalcon
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That's not bad work, not bad at all. Satisfying.
