procedure for changing track rod ends

[BrokenBiker]

both ends need doing in the morning before the mot.

i have 2 axle stands and 2 ramps available to assist me along with a trolley jack.

what is the easiest way to change the ends without altering the tracking. is it best to leave the wheel on with the weight of the car on the wheel or get the wheel off and do it jacked up? i know you mustn't even breath at the steering wheel until everything is tight agian and use the locking nut as a guide as to where the previous end was turned to.

i picked both ends up today and have already cracked the locking nuts off

 

[harryb94]

The way I was taught was to measure the thread between the locking nut and the joint with a set of callipers and set the new one to the same, just need to be sure the old and new are identical though

 

[gordon stephenson]

I usually just scribe a reference mark on each end of the track rod once removed from the vehicle, then accurately measure from the ref mark to the centre of the track rod taper, And refit the new ones to the same sizes, I found that counting the number of turns to remove the track rod end is not satisfactory as not all track rod threads are the same length.

 

[bill_gj]

Well, unless you can guarantee that the replacement parts are identical to the ones you're taking off, you can only get so close to the proper adjustment. Patern parts and changes by the OEM supplier mean you are quite likely to need tracking adjustment to limit tyre wear. Be OK for MOT though.

 

[roofman]

be carefull about counting the threads method,some patten ones have different length bodys from the OEM ones and the distance from the centre line of the taper will be not the same. best to measure the old against the new before deciding on your track retaining ideas

 

[BrokenBiker]

think i will measure up first then

 

[dunk]

doubt you will get the end off while wheel is on vehicle without a lot of struggle, you can mark both front inner wheel rims and measure before removing rods then do as suggested by the other posters for marking rod ends on removal, when new ones fitted get road wheel marks lined up and measure, get as close to measurement as you can, but will still need to be tracked

 

[roofman]

taper should hold while you take the nylock nut off with an impact gun...then a firm wack with a hammer on the hub side of the joint and the taper should fall out. had the same job on my VW T4 and after good advice here it fell out

 

[rikrobson]

you will never get it accurate with measuring or counting the threads. You will find the the tracking may be out because of the ware. to get it close i put it on opposite lock and lock the steering. therefore if you are doing the right hand side the steering goes to the left. assuming the track rod is behind the centre line. This way you have better access. measure from a datum on the track rod and note the angle its at, then loosen the lock nut then the taper nut and loosen the taper and put the new one on. one the new one is fitted measure again as before. you need to measure to the centre of the taper, but the old one will probably floating around in its housing, so its a best guess. The only accurate way is to get the car on its wheels and measure the toe-in. There are various widgets available to do this but its hard to get at the end when the car is on its wheels unless you have a four post ramp. If its going back in for its MOT you might get the garage to adjust it for you. its usually only £20-30 quid at a tyre place

 

[rikrobson]

taper should hold while you take the nylock nut off with an impact gun...then a firm wack with a hammer on the hub side of the joint and the taper should fall out. had the same job on my VW T4 and after good advice here it fell out

I've had the opposite where the nut came half loose and the taper broke. as it was being changed it succumbed to the angle grinder. two hammers on opposite sided is also helpful sometimes. I just use a fork as the track rod end is invariable changed if its coming off. I'dd chane anything on the advisories since you've got it half appart. wishbone bushes usually go at around the same time as the track rod ends.

 

[the snooper]

just get it close then get it tracked, its the only way to be sure and it saves you buying new tyres a month or so later and as well as having to buy new tyres you would have to get it tracked anyway to save the new tyres, prevention is better and cheaper then the cure

 

[BrokenBiker]

have decided to just do it, and then get it tracked while its on the ramps being mot'd. its only £15 if i have it one with the mot i think so no point worrying about it

 

[BrokenBiker]

the old ones came off with no problem, new ones went on fine, have it booked in for tracking then mot tomorrow morning so they can deal with it. it does need tracking now as the steering wheel it as 10 oclock when the wheels are straight but it drives straight and doesnt veer off when i accelerate. just need to sort the exhaust and its ready

 

[rikrobson]

Make sure they do the adjustment with the steering wheel straight. Some of the "monkies" have a tendency to just lock the wheel where it is and the adjust it instad of centering the rack first.

 

[BrokenBiker]

i know the guy thats going to be doing it, he is good at what he does. did my fathers jag a while back after the track rods had to be cut off and replaced, the wheel was never straight before hand but afterwards it was spot on

 

[Robotstar5]

i know the guy thats going to be doing it, he is good at what he does. did my fathers jag a while back after the track rods had to be cut off and replaced, the wheel was never straight before hand but afterwards it was spot on

Although the indicators have never self-canceled since

 

[BrokenBiker]

In all fairness he is a good guy, knows his stuff...he is t the cheapest though but if it's done right I don't mind paying a bit more.

Currently waiting to find out what the megane is going to fail on