Prob A dumb question but..

[MattF]

For the farting about you have to do with them though, they're just not worth the hassle, IMHO. Plus, they don't lay nicely flat against a surface like a steel rule does, and you can't hold them down with your fingertips anywhere near as steadily as you can with a rule. Tapes are fine for measuring timber/lumber to size, but that's about as far is it goes, for me.

 

[the snooper]

Also if you are measuring for holes to Line up measure to edge of hole then if a 5mm hole add 2.5 to the measurement so you are not guessing the centre

 

[mechman]

Noods
I had a similar prob and then started to use a centre drill before drilling each hole and found it to be more accurate.

 

[MCKDAVID]

for me, tape measure aren't any real use for precision works. Agreed, they're just a measure reference but for small pieces they're not that practical, even if you ignore the end and start measuring at 100.... for repeatability it would be better with steel rules, calipers, etc, transfer punches are really useful, and make a massive difference for detail works.
The other thing to try is to use a marker pen as "marking blue" and scribe the lines. The better you can see the layout, the better you can check for errors, more precise than say than using pencil, chalk or markers etc.

If you're really wanting to be more accurate, there's no real trick to it, patience and attention to detail is all there is too it. Just take your time and measure carefully, and always remember.... all together now, "measure twice cut once ....." then cut, then shout Bgger and go get another bit.. not that we've ever done that eh !!

 

[bletchmonster]

Previously mentioned -make a steel template to drill though, works well for me, you can keep making templates till you get one bob on, then it takes no time to set up on the bits that matter. It also gets round the problem of even if your marking out and punching is perfect the damm drill still wanders off course.
Always worth checking your work piece is bob on level in relation to the drill bit, a tiddly bit of slant will send it way off.
Having said all that, I regularly have tantrums over the matter!

 

[Welderpaul]

I would say the latter.. I measure with a tape measure and then would use calipers or dividers to mark the next one and so on..

It would be handy to know what you are marking out.. Say you are marking a row of 30 holes along a piece of flat bar for example, 100mm centres, first one 100mm from one end - I use a heavy magnet to hold the tape on 100mm on the edge of the bar. Put a square under the tape, and put it on the 200mm mark, scribe, put on 300mm mark, scribe etc all the way up to the end. If you are working to one mm tolerance, the worst each hole can be out is 1mm (from each other, or the end datum), which is easily taken up in normal bolt hole tolerances. Don't mark a hole, then measure off that one etc as it will soon run out.

Similar procedure for marking out plate etc.

Like i say, not sure what you are marking out, may be able to help more if you give us a bit more info.

 

[MattF]

If you are working to one mm tolerance, the worst each hole can be out is 1mm (from each other, or the end datum), which is easily taken up in normal bolt hole tolerances.

It's not hard to spot who's the large scale engineer. 1mm! That's a country mile for some things.

 

[Welderpaul]

It's not hard to spot who's the large scale engineer. 1mm! That's a country mile for some things.

Ha, yes, I agree. TBH the tolerances that we are permitted are that big you could make it, be in tolerance, and it wouldn't fit together!

 

[Wendelspanswick]

If you have a compound table on the pillar drill you could fit a DRO to it or even some cheap digital verniers as an alternative, that way you only need to mark the first hole accurately, the subsequent holes can be read off the DRO.
Also an optical centre punch is useful.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-optical-centre-punch-100244

 

[Noods]

I leant so much in just asking one dumb Q it's brilliant .. A HUGE thank you from one and all.. Other than dividers steel rules and punches are there any other scribing devices to use?
So many Muchly thank you's though.. I'm so impressed I'm posting another dumb question on the forum..

 

[Noods]

If you have a compound table on the pillar drill you could fit a DRO to it or even some cheap digital verniers as an alternative, that way you only need to mark the first hole accurately, the subsequent holes can be read off the DRO.
Also an optical centre punch is useful.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-optical-centre-punch-100244

Really like the idea of that,... X

 

[Tiggy_dorset]

Really like the idea of that,... X

Compound table like this....

I bought for £150 new a month ago. Works brilliantly for what I do. Unfortunately I failed to realise it was imperial when I ordered it . Converting measurements to metric isn't an issue though. DRO isn't necessary but will save a massive ammount of time. I haven't got a DRO on this.

 

[Noods]

Compound table like this....

View attachment 78646


I bought for £150 new a month ago. Works brilliantly for what I do. Unfortunately I failed to realise it was imperial when I ordered it . Converting measurements to metric isn't an issue though. DRO isn't necessary but will save a massive ammount of time. I haven't got a DRO on this.

Ahh I'm about to purchase a metric milling machine with a 13mm chuck so I'm guessing that would be an huge help..

 

[Lemo]

Ditching the tape unless you're measuring over a metre in would be my first step. Those things are fine for rough measurement, but terrible if you're wanting precision. Some decent metal rulers are what you want.

Im sorry but thats rubbish. I've used a tape measure for everything from general fab to offshore work for BP. You have to trust your measuring devices. Consistency is key. switching from dividers to rules to tapes depending on the distance will do nothing but create problems

 

[Ton-up]

If you are marking from an edge, hold something flat on the edge to push the rule to. If you are marking sheet or thin material, use a heavy block of metal on the bench beside. I have a small magnetic base I use if I can't reach. Use sprung dividers for marks reasonably close or I also have an old pair of digi calipers that I use the points for marking out with, you dont need to scribe a deep line, just mark some marking fluid/marker pen.

 

[MattF]

Im sorry but thats rubbish. I've used a tape measure for everything from general fab to offshore work for BP. You have to trust your measuring devices. Consistency is key. switching from dividers to rules to tapes depending on the distance will do nothing but create problems

If it works for you, fine. Still doesn't change my opinion or experience though.

 

[I'm getting on a bit]

On a metal tape measure, the marks don't move - so if you keep to the same reference points you should get the same sizing.

+1

But the times I have been out by an inch marking out when looking at the tape upside-down

Note for clarity measuring from the right

Note to self measure twice cut once

 

[Old Dog]

I'm old school(a age thing) and if I need to mark something like you're doing I return to the horrible days of Technical Drawing classes! Drill two shallow holes with the smallest drill bit you have(the smaller the better) on opposite corners of the work piece for a compass point to fit in and scribe arc's to mark the holes. Or mark and drill the first component and clamp a piece of paper over it and rub a dirty finger over all the holes then centre punch the holes onto the next component. The first version is by far the most accurate.

 

[mechman]

+1

But the times I have been out by an inch marking out when looking at the tape upside-down

Note for clarity measuring from the right

Note to self measure twice cut once

Why were you upside down,

 

[s410man]

Search ebay for universal transfer punch

Very handy bit of kit for repeat marking..