Primer during restoration

[pauldee]

I have removed some rusty parts of my 65 bus, and will soon be welding on some new panels, but I'm a bit bewildered by the primer options. All I want to do is coat them in a protective layer for a (possibly very) long time, and then when it comes to painting, send it off to a pro.

I accept I may have to remove what I put on now, but it would be better not to have to, and of course for any internal areas, this may be the permanent primer.

Many people recommend epoxy primer but that means I'll need an air compressor, srpay gun, air fed mask, spray booth etc etc. I was hoping to be able to do this with rattle cans.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Paul

 

[richie00boy]

If you really are limited to spray cans then Bonda Rust Primer will seal the metal. But it is a poor foundation for subsequent coats (too soft and reactive I found) and so you would be advised to remove it really.

To spray epoxy primer you would just need a mini gun, small compressor and A1P2 filter mask.

 

[norsa]

Most primers are hygroscopic so after a very long time, it will all be rusty anyway. Best bet would be to prime, then top coat with your rattle cans. You can then wash it off with celly to weld your bits in. The pro painter will take it all off before he starts.
Nick

 

[pauldee]

Sorry guys, I'm struggling with definitions here,

norsa, please could you explain what you mean by 'top coat' here - is this final paint?

and richie00boy, I keep hearing people talk about 'sealer' and 'sealing' - does this just refer to appyling a waterproof coat?

Cheers,
Paul

 

[sprayerDrew]

You can roll on epoxy primer if its temporary and will be removed after. Not what I'd do but perfect for someone at home with limited tools
Good luck I work on vws ECERY day

Sealers are sealers to stop problematic paint or to lock previous layers down. Also Americans refer to sealer meaning epoxy primer

 

[norsa]

Being old skool, I use etch in place of epoxy. Would it wash off?
Yes Paul. top coat is the final shiny coat be it coloured or clear. Both also referred to as lacquer.

 

[langy]

Being old skool, I use etch in place of epoxy. Would it wash off?
Yes Paul. top coat is the final shiny coat be it coloured or clear. Both also referred to as lacquer.

Nick etch is hydroscopic, epoxy is not, epoxy is the primer to use

 

[norsa]

Indeed Steve but my point is, when the time comes to weld, would you be able to wash the epoxy off as you would with rattle can?

 

[langy]

Indeed Steve but my point is, when the time comes to weld, would you be able to wash the epoxy off as you would with rattle can?

No you wouldn't be able to wash it off as its 2k Nick but one coat would do the job and one coat will sand off or zip wheel off easily, In my opinion this is how to do the job properly, others will have differing methods.

 

[norsa]

i bow now as i have bowed before to you youngsters and your new fangled and superior ways. Back to the cave with me. Seriously though, when i get the Escort all rebuilt and dry fitted i will be going with the epoxy. Seems Max do one. Tried it? I know you like your Lech.
Nick

 

[langy]

i bow now as i have bowed before to you youngsters and your new fangled and superior ways. Back to the cave with me. Seriously though, when i get the Escort all rebuilt and dry fitted i will be going with the epoxy. Seems Max do one. Tried it? I know you like your Lech.
Nick

Youngster !!! I've been called quite a few things but never that I bet i'm older than you Nick
I've tried them all mate and I find the Lechlar to be the best of the bunch, I thought the PPG one would be good but it was bloody expensive and nowhere near as good as the Lechlar.

 

[norsa]

Young is a state of mind mate. I act 30 mostly but 54 this year! Old? Wise?

 

[langy]

Young is a state of mind mate. I act 30 mostly but 54 this year! Old? Wise?

54 !!! your a pup mate I got 6 years on ya

 

[norsa]

you the man. Nuff said.

 

[pauldee]

Cheers for all your help on this one guys. Do any of you have any recommendation for epoxy primers? Or any brands I should avoid?

 

[richie00boy]

Lechler is good, but needs to be tinted. I've used HB Body which was good too.

Jotun do a few and they are popular and a bit cheaper, but they are marine products not automotive so it doesn't spray or rub down as nice. I would avoid the Jotamastic ones if you want to spray it.

Max Meyer do one too, but it uses 2k thinner (as opposed to epoxy thinner) and is aimed at collision repair rather than restoration, so I'm not sure if it performs as well.

 

[pauldee]

Cheers richie00boy. I heard things about Lechler, but why do you say it needs to be tinted? its a primer???

 

[richie00boy]

It is not coloured until it is tinted. Most primers come already tinted grey. You can try using it untinted, but it's not that easy to see where you have good coverage. Also it slightly messes up the mixing ratio.

 

[pauldee]

Oh I see, fair point.

Some people reccommend Epoxy Mastic 121, which is I think is originally designed as a chassis paint, but many people use it as a primer?

 

[richie00boy]

It is a chassis paint, I wouldn't use it for outside bodywork. It is designed specifically to be brushed on. They sell the Epoxy 421 for spraying and outside bodywork.

The Rustbuster epoxies are also very expensive for what it is, also they are not proper automotive paints and as such they do not flat back or flow as well as for example Lechler or HB Body epoxies.