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brightspark
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depends on what steel your cutting solid or box and tube
hotponyshoes
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A mate of mine has the milwaukee one, we used it a couple of weeks ago to cut a tractor trailer drawbar down and a decent lump of 10mm channel maybe 150x100. Coped fine and did both on the same battery.
After using that I'd be tempted to get one of the brands to suit the batteries I have but at £300+ I'd like to see one in the flesh first
After using that I'd be tempted to get one of the brands to suit the batteries I have but at £300+ I'd like to see one in the flesh first
Kram
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20mm square will be no problem, even upto 60mm it should do a decent job.
They struggle with thicker solid bars as the wheel radius is too small for low TPI blades. Using the wrong tpi blade is asking for it to snap!
4" steel and 5" aluminium were a pain - not recommended but Ive done it. Mine is an Aldi Ferrex corded one.
They struggle with thicker solid bars as the wheel radius is too small for low TPI blades. Using the wrong tpi blade is asking for it to snap!
4" steel and 5" aluminium were a pain - not recommended but Ive done it. Mine is an Aldi Ferrex corded one.
MetalMonkey
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I have a Hikoki cordless one - it eats box section and small bar. I'd expect 20mm to be quite easy.
The biggest problem I have found is the blades don't last very long - I've been using Milwaukee blades on mine and they tend to crack and fracture rather than wear out.
Not entirely sure why - I think partly due to the tight radius and instability of being hand held in the cut, I don’t think the blades are the greatest quality either.
The biggest problem I have found is the blades don't last very long - I've been using Milwaukee blades on mine and they tend to crack and fracture rather than wear out.
Not entirely sure why - I think partly due to the tight radius and instability of being hand held in the cut, I don’t think the blades are the greatest quality either.
frank horton
V twins are great but 4"s rule.........
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Metal monkey
have a look at TuffSaw.....they are on the webb....S Wales think......
Ian is a one man band with excellent products....at good prices...
PLUS u can talk to him....
I use his cobalt blades on my 12" metal bandsaw, just brill....
have a look at TuffSaw.....they are on the webb....S Wales think......
Ian is a one man band with excellent products....at good prices...
PLUS u can talk to him....
I use his cobalt blades on my 12" metal bandsaw, just brill....
The one thing I will say about them is it does require a bit of practise if you want to cut larger pieces square. It is easy for them to run off line.
It is also easy to assume you maybe want finer teeth blade but from what we found the coarser blades seemed to be much better for bigger/thicker stuff.
We bought replacement blades from these people and they are much better than the Milwaukee supplied ones.
thebandsawshop.com
The blades can last a reasonable amount of time as long as you aren't someone who has do every cut in 5 seconds. I bit of lube and a steady pace helps the the blades last.
20mm solid would be a walk in the park for one of these.
It is also easy to assume you maybe want finer teeth blade but from what we found the coarser blades seemed to be much better for bigger/thicker stuff.
We bought replacement blades from these people and they are much better than the Milwaukee supplied ones.
Bandsaw Blades - Made in UK, Shipping Worldwide - The Bandsaw Shop
Bandsaw blades for cutting wood, meat, fish, metal, plastics. Replacement bandsaw blades made to suit your machine. Made in the UK, shipping worldwide.
thebandsawshop.com
The blades can last a reasonable amount of time as long as you aren't someone who has do every cut in 5 seconds. I bit of lube and a steady pace helps the the blades last.
20mm solid would be a walk in the park for one of these.
Kram
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Milwaunkee blades are made from good cobalt HSS, so durability is good. Problem was for most the weld joint on most packs was done pssed so they kick every time the joint goes round. I dont know if they are still the same but, while unpleasant, they are useable. I might risk another pack as they are much cheaper.
Pond frog
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All the Milwaukee blades I’ve used have failed at the weld , it doesn’t mater how durable the teeth are if the blade snaps
Misterg
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They aren't cracking on the rear edge are they?
This was happening on my (Aldi) corded portable bandsaw, even with a Tuffsaws blade. The saw has 'floating' rollers that run on the back of the blade - it turned out that one of them had wedged into its housing at an angle. Whenever there was pressure on the blade, it was forcing the back edge of the blade sideways.
I'm still on the same blade since sorting that out.
MetalMonkey
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Mine cracked on the front edge - hard to see in the photo but this had several cracks like this along it and had snapped at one as well. I had one that was worse but I think I chucked it.
As far as I know everything is spot on in the saw, I had cut quite a bit of 3mm flat bar and box to be fair.
