- Thread starter dobbslc
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Throw away the rubber ring under the top part, the bit where the plug goes into and roll a sausage of Plumbersmate and put that around it, squash it down then keep the bottom washer but put a smaller ring of Plumbersmate where it fits against the bath then put the screw in or the locking ring or whatever, it will squish out of the sides and inside the waste, I normally cut it off with a blunt screwdriver and that should seal up any gaps.
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Clear silicone
Exactly
dobbslc
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Flat steel plate? What did I miss?
It's a trick I've used on model boat hulls when a hole has gone wrong. Wax the plate so it releases, fill from behind, remove when set needs very little sanding.
In this case I would put a bolt or woodscrew through the plate and very lightly secure to a bit of floorboard inside the bath. Then apply the epoxy fibreglass.
It saves having to redo it 10 years later when the silicone gives up.
In this case I would put a bolt or woodscrew through the plate and very lightly secure to a bit of floorboard inside the bath. Then apply the epoxy fibreglass.
It saves having to redo it 10 years later when the silicone gives up.
angellonewolf
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as said above throw the foam seal use the rubber seal coat each surface put together leave for 24 hours
123hotchef
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stixall clear
Gareth J
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Rightly or wrongly, I've stopped siliconing in plugs. Silicone seals very well, quite permanently. But it leaves a rubbish finish if you have to wipe off excess, especially around the plug where water ends up tracking back between silicone and ceramic and letting mould set in. Which is then impossible to clean. Plus it's an **** to remove/replace.
Instead have been using plumbers mait. Clean up is a lot cleaner and disassembly should be easier too. So far have done 2x sinks, 2x shower trays and 1x bath. No leaks yet but I suppose it's fairly early days.
However, if I were to use a clear tube sealant, as above, I'd choose clear stixall over silicone.
Instead have been using plumbers mait. Clean up is a lot cleaner and disassembly should be easier too. So far have done 2x sinks, 2x shower trays and 1x bath. No leaks yet but I suppose it's fairly early days.
However, if I were to use a clear tube sealant, as above, I'd choose clear stixall over silicone.
julianf
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It'll be hard to argue that it's changed since it was delivered?
I mean, I know what you're saying, but I think you could probably push it.
Agroshield
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FWIW, if the top side is sealed properly, water should never get near the underside. The only time threads would need sealing is on a basin, where the overflow enters through the side of metal waste.
Do a dry assembly without the rubber washer which you are being advised to discard. That will verify that the threads on the strainer are cut long enough for the nut to tighten without bottoming out. If the nut won't tighten, a solid nylon or stainless washer could be needed as a spacer.
Do a dry assembly without the rubber washer which you are being advised to discard. That will verify that the threads on the strainer are cut long enough for the nut to tighten without bottoming out. If the nut won't tighten, a solid nylon or stainless washer could be needed as a spacer.
dobbslc
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It's this type of fitting with the side entry overflow. It's got a single 6mm screw through the centre that holds it together.
That lower rubber seal does need to be good.
