Pete.
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Pete,
If I do it that way and use a square insert can I use the whole side of the insert and not just the point? Reason is I need to cut 10mm in one swipe. Ive never used inserts before so not 100% on how much of the insert you can use. The only downside I can see is it wouldent be adjustable, not just for angle but also radias.
Nice cutter though, that was one of my first flycutter pics I saved ages ago.
I have square 12mm inserts here, no problem cutting over the 10mm as the chamber will be finished last.
If I do it that way and use a square insert can I use the whole side of the insert and not just the point? Reason is I need to cut 10mm in one swipe. Ive never used inserts before so not 100% on how much of the insert you can use. The only downside I can see is it wouldent be adjustable, not just for angle but also radias.
Nice cutter though, that was one of my first flycutter pics I saved ages ago.
I have square 12mm inserts here, no problem cutting over the 10mm as the chamber will be finished last.
Unless your machine is VERY solid, I would think it would chatter worse than two Chav's in skirts
I know nothing but the Mill is not one of these small desktop ones that you can buy, it is about as big as you can go staying within the hobbiest range. About how ridgid, well the flycuts surly speek for them selfs, never done it before, just power feed and ill have an amasing finish.
It will be only light cuts, lets say about 0.1mm at a time just to clean up the heads and also cut the squish size and angle I want.
So whats best then? compleate side of an index tool or a ground out tool? Got to be a min of 10mm cut in one go.
Pete.
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You definately don't want to use the whole side of an insert. Even super-rigid production machines don't try that. Cut with the corners with inserts, but with your machine HSS will yield the best results finish-wise. You just have to get the grinding of the tool sorted.
The head your after is the same fitment as the screw on boring heads available any where, shame wrong angle. 12mm or 1/2" holes for the cutters, easy to drill and ream out. Use one almost every day opening a hole up 2mm larger in one go may cause problems, you have a vastly wider area.
Thinking about it, i think you have a serious problem here and cant advise.
However rigid you think the machine is, it flexes or can move in various points-
X bed
Y slide
Z quill guarantee it
Round upright definately
Round upright joints top 2 bolts and bottom 4 bolts highly likely
Any bearings that have minimal play very likely even if new.
Thinking about it, i think you have a serious problem here and cant advise.
However rigid you think the machine is, it flexes or can move in various points-
X bed
Y slide
Z quill guarantee it
Round upright definately
Round upright joints top 2 bolts and bottom 4 bolts highly likely
Any bearings that have minimal play very likely even if new.
Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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The clue is in the machines description; Drill/Milling machine. I have access to a very large Bridgeport and wouldn't even consider taking a the cut you are looking at.
If I was doing this job, I would use a Rotary table and an end mill, it will tkae a little more setting up, but the will show in the finished job
If I was doing this job, I would use a Rotary table and an end mill, it will tkae a little more setting up, but the will show in the finished job
Thanks, think I need a bit of practice with a few diffrent ideas on again the lump of ally.
If you look at the machined head ive posted up the sqish on that one was cut with a modded router tool and turned on angle on a rotary table. The mill that was used to do this is about a 3rd of the size of mine. My have to pick his brain a little see how many secrets he will share with me.
If you look at the machined head ive posted up the sqish on that one was cut with a modded router tool and turned on angle on a rotary table. The mill that was used to do this is about a 3rd of the size of mine. My have to pick his brain a little see how many secrets he will share with me.
Hell of a lot of clocking up though, double for twin cylinder.
I have an idea if you have access to a lathe, ok at making own tools and competant in file work.
Will have to get camera out, back tonight.
Whats the diameters of the squish? Assuming different bores.
I have an idea if you have access to a lathe, ok at making own tools and competant in file work.
Will have to get camera out, back tonight.
Whats the diameters of the squish? Assuming different bores.
I know another way for sure I could do this BUT my one machine just is not big enough.
On a lathe with the head centered to one chamber and use the compound slide to do the cut, take no time at all. Small problem though, my lathe is a 9", can only turn a max of about 10 1/4"
Got three more early shifts then two weeks off, ill have a good old play with all my ideas and the suggestions to see what works best. One thing you can all be sure on, ill bore you all with my results
hareng,
The outer diameter can be from about 64-66mm, squish band 10mm, squish angle I think is 15 degree but could be about 10 degree. Will need to 100% everything before I cut one mind.
On a lathe with the head centered to one chamber and use the compound slide to do the cut, take no time at all. Small problem though, my lathe is a 9", can only turn a max of about 10 1/4"
Got three more early shifts then two weeks off, ill have a good old play with all my ideas and the suggestions to see what works best. One thing you can all be sure on, ill bore you all with my results
hareng,
The outer diameter can be from about 64-66mm, squish band 10mm, squish angle I think is 15 degree but could be about 10 degree. Will need to 100% everything before I cut one mind.
graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
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slot drill on a rotary table will do it, make a fixture to loctate the heads central on the table using the centre hole and plug ole[as long as the plug hole is always in the same place]; setting up should be a matter of bolting the heads to the table, then stand and turn the handle, I motorised my table when I had some boring to do with an endmill.
I take full side of an insert cuts with a square insert, ground finish inserts with a lot of angle on them, but it's for spot facing, I haven't tried that diameter, I have used a boring head to do a wide chamfer on something of similar size, worked suprisingly well, very low speed and short cutter, try on some scrap metal, lock everything including the quill. Suprised the pictured one was done on a rotary table, looks like it was plunged.
For a Flycutter you don't need to buy something, make a collar to clamp around the spindle and bolt a bit of flat stock to the face of it and fasten your insert to it. Looks rough but works well.
I take full side of an insert cuts with a square insert, ground finish inserts with a lot of angle on them, but it's for spot facing, I haven't tried that diameter, I have used a boring head to do a wide chamfer on something of similar size, worked suprisingly well, very low speed and short cutter, try on some scrap metal, lock everything including the quill. Suprised the pictured one was done on a rotary table, looks like it was plunged.
For a Flycutter you don't need to buy something, make a collar to clamp around the spindle and bolt a bit of flat stock to the face of it and fasten your insert to it. Looks rough but works well.
Agroshield
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Clamping
On clamping...
What does the head rest on when upside down? I'm guessing the spotfaces for the head bolts. Is the inside surface (gasket face) of the head flat?
If so, you should really clamp it gasket face down and take the smallest skim off the spotfaces all at the same setting so they are all the same height. Then when you turn it over to flycut, you are assured that the top and bottom are parallel.
Have you checked your barrels are the same height? What are you using for a base gasket? Have you checked that the pistons at TDC are the same height?
On clamping...
What does the head rest on when upside down? I'm guessing the spotfaces for the head bolts. Is the inside surface (gasket face) of the head flat?
If so, you should really clamp it gasket face down and take the smallest skim off the spotfaces all at the same setting so they are all the same height. Then when you turn it over to flycut, you are assured that the top and bottom are parallel.
Have you checked your barrels are the same height? What are you using for a base gasket? Have you checked that the pistons at TDC are the same height?
The head will be on the head bolt spot faces, carnt see there being a problem as from factory there done this way and everyone who I have spoken to does the same thing, BUT thats a nice idea just incase and I can always check this.
Barrel height as far as I know are all exactly the same, main thing to worry about is use of OEM or Patten bace gaskets, there is 0.15 of a difference between them and this comes into play when measuring the squish. I will be aiming for close to 0.8mm for this. For the RD350 the magic number to get under is the 1mm to see big differances in performance but genuraly 0.8mm is perfict, some racers are getting closer than this but anywhere between 0.8 & 0.85mm will be fine.
It will always be done on a mock up engine I have, after any cuts measurements to be taken. I plan on doing my first head in a couple of weeks now after ive mastered all aspects of the cuts.
If I get any good I will have a go at doing removable dome's, that would be alot of machining BUT a very good project to build up my skills and learn.
