- Thread starter busastars
- Start date
Right Sorry if ive got it wrong, trying to grind the HSS tool as per how everyone is telling me so please bare with me.
My Angle grinder packed up, Ahhhhh Geeeee, £15 for three years abuse
Another £15 I gess tomorow I grind better with the Angle grinder than with the bench grinder.
Anyhow some pics for you to see if I got it right:
Ive lobed a small piece of ally of that block so I can play with a small piece at a time to get my tooling right.
My Angle grinder packed up, Ahhhhh Geeeee, £15 for three years abuse
Another £15 I gess tomorow I grind better with the Angle grinder than with the bench grinder.Anyhow some pics for you to see if I got it right:
Ive lobed a small piece of ally of that block so I can play with a small piece at a time to get my tooling right.
Been and had a play again. Struggling to get the tool right as my Angle grinder is knakered and my stones on the Bench are a little worn.
Sharpend up the tool and tried to flattern the surfaces and had another go. Alot smother by touch and chips as so much finer:
Getting better though, ill have another play with the tool.
Sharpend up the tool and tried to flattern the surfaces and had another go. Alot smother by touch and chips as so much finer:
Getting better though, ill have another play with the tool.
Andy from Workshopshed
Member
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- 228
I know I need to hook up a power feed to the handle and get the tooling right, surface is a little rough, any helpfull hits welcome.
Yes, the surface is a little rough, I've found I get the best results when turning using a round ended tool rather than a pointed one.
You will might get some good answers to that from
http://modeleng.proboards.com/index.cgi
but beware of men with beards and opinions.
Round three, Ding Ding....
You may notice ive got a smile on my face now
Ive just had a play, ground down a cheap lathe tool I got to fit the Fly cutter. The result is better than these pic show hounest, it is so smoth that even on my nail I cannot fael a ripple.
Dont forget mind its all hand feed, now power feed as of yet.
You may notice ive got a smile on my face now
Ive just had a play, ground down a cheap lathe tool I got to fit the Fly cutter. The result is better than these pic show hounest, it is so smoth that even on my nail I cannot fael a ripple.
Dont forget mind its all hand feed, now power feed as of yet.
Think ive hit the nail on the head and that is I what I already know, im rubbish at making my own tooling
Going to make a couple of different tools for some index cutters I have. I have 10 of both SPMR 120304 Isca & RCMT 1204M0-F2 TP200 Seco. Both sutiable for Mild & Stainless.
Have thoughts on trying the Round index tools for flycutting.
Going to make a couple of different tools for some index cutters I have. I have 10 of both SPMR 120304 Isca & RCMT 1204M0-F2 TP200 Seco. Both sutiable for Mild & Stainless.
Have thoughts on trying the Round index tools for flycutting.
Wedg1e
They call me Mr. Bodge-angles
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- 7,756
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- Teesside, England
Another thing worth having: DRO (digital readouts) 
Cheapest way involves using what are in effect digital vernier calipers, modified to allow the scale to be bolted down while the readout slides along it (or vice versa). The readouts are then wired to a large, backlit display so you can see at a glance where you are.
I got a 3-axis setup from Amadeal (.co.uk) for a couple of hundred sheets, brought my 1950/60s Perrin kicking and screaming into at least the 1980s!
The major drawback is that those calipers don't like getting wet: they work by capacitance so any water (ie coolant) bu993rs up the readings. I've managed to avoid it largely because most of the stuff I do is light work so no need for coolant (and also how you can get away with wood packing
), but if I do, the scales are mounted under the X-Y table so the coolant drips past them.
My Bridgey is still on the dials as is my Boxford lathe, but I may fit scales to them later and share the readout unit to keep costs down...
Cheapest way involves using what are in effect digital vernier calipers, modified to allow the scale to be bolted down while the readout slides along it (or vice versa). The readouts are then wired to a large, backlit display so you can see at a glance where you are.
I got a 3-axis setup from Amadeal (.co.uk) for a couple of hundred sheets, brought my 1950/60s Perrin kicking and screaming into at least the 1980s!
The major drawback is that those calipers don't like getting wet: they work by capacitance so any water (ie coolant) bu993rs up the readings. I've managed to avoid it largely because most of the stuff I do is light work so no need for coolant (and also how you can get away with wood packing
), but if I do, the scales are mounted under the X-Y table so the coolant drips past them.My Bridgey is still on the dials as is my Boxford lathe, but I may fit scales to them later and share the readout unit to keep costs down...
Andy from Workshopshed
Member
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- 228
Top stuff
I know Pete, I will keep going back to it and im sure ill get it right. Dont like things to beat me.
But I know that I can get a great finish with a bought cheap tool and that has proved to myself that the machine is good (just the user is a monkey)
Going to cut some square bar to fix some inserts to just to see what kind of finish they give.
But ive learnt a whole load playing and taking advice. Tomorow if I got some time im going to have a go at machining an attachemt to fit my window motor to the castle end of where the handle would attach to so I can have power feed and get an even better finish, OK I lied a bit, just so lazy me dont have to turn the handles all day long
But I know that I can get a great finish with a bought cheap tool and that has proved to myself that the machine is good (just the user is a monkey)
Going to cut some square bar to fix some inserts to just to see what kind of finish they give.
But ive learnt a whole load playing and taking advice. Tomorow if I got some time im going to have a go at machining an attachemt to fit my window motor to the castle end of where the handle would attach to so I can have power feed and get an even better finish, OK I lied a bit, just so lazy me dont have to turn the handles all day long
I would save up the extra and get a DRO first.
You havent much travel on that Major whereas a Bridgeport and the Lux types have a heavy much longer bed and travel, really knackers you up sending down probably 100 times.
I only paid £150 complete with transformer for the much better Bridgeport type and adapters from Chester 4 years ago on an Open Day. Same as what J&L flog
http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=12015246 Plus transformer, gears, shims, lead screw extention etc.
Can run US 110 Volt stuff from the transformer if necessary twin output.
Might be worth a trip up.
Looks like a carbide tool you last ground up, engineers will frown as its not recommended for aluminium, but i do it all the time and get respectable finishes. Being carbide brazed on it wont take to the constant clipping/chipping whether on lathe or mill, they break off. Ok for very light stuff though, use whatever works or work round it. Main reason thats working is its fairly sharp and stands a good chance its more rigid than the HSS blunt tool before. Use Cobalt HSS if have to buy its dearer than the unknown and lasts longer, a lot longer.
You havent much travel on that Major whereas a Bridgeport and the Lux types have a heavy much longer bed and travel, really knackers you up sending down probably 100 times.
I only paid £150 complete with transformer for the much better Bridgeport type and adapters from Chester 4 years ago on an Open Day. Same as what J&L flog
http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=12015246 Plus transformer, gears, shims, lead screw extention etc.
Can run US 110 Volt stuff from the transformer if necessary twin output.
Might be worth a trip up.
Looks like a carbide tool you last ground up, engineers will frown as its not recommended for aluminium, but i do it all the time and get respectable finishes. Being carbide brazed on it wont take to the constant clipping/chipping whether on lathe or mill, they break off. Ok for very light stuff though, use whatever works or work round it. Main reason thats working is its fairly sharp and stands a good chance its more rigid than the HSS blunt tool before. Use Cobalt HSS if have to buy its dearer than the unknown and lasts longer, a lot longer.
While i think of it best place for a DRO is http://www.machine-dro.co.uk/index.php?target=categories&category_id=3
Three axis budget readout, 3 scales Sino and covers £454 and coolant proof.
I had the scale bolt on units on the major with a remote 3 axis Warco display around 8 years ago when much dearer. Three scales approx £210 plus £150 odd for Warco display that took at least 5 months to come, even then went to wrong address good job chap was honest and put two and two together!
Incidently the batteries, get a good supply you will be replacing every two weeks (no exageration) and works out quite costly £3 for two at Sainsburies. Luckilly bought Tescos out at time 50p for two but still proved costly running to 48 per year with time not used for weeks, think twice. Its due to the leads that plug in to that Warco readout and draining the batteries in each scale even though auto shut off.
Still got that Warco readout unused for 7 years.
Three axis budget readout, 3 scales Sino and covers £454 and coolant proof.
I had the scale bolt on units on the major with a remote 3 axis Warco display around 8 years ago when much dearer. Three scales approx £210 plus £150 odd for Warco display that took at least 5 months to come, even then went to wrong address good job chap was honest and put two and two together!
Incidently the batteries, get a good supply you will be replacing every two weeks (no exageration) and works out quite costly £3 for two at Sainsburies. Luckilly bought Tescos out at time 50p for two but still proved costly running to 48 per year with time not used for weeks, think twice. Its due to the leads that plug in to that Warco readout and draining the batteries in each scale even though auto shut off.
Still got that Warco readout unused for 7 years.
More updates, hope your all not getting bored and keep your comments comming, well the good ones that is 
Had another go at grinding some HSS bar, this time I tried to copy the Cabride one I used that gave me a good finish.
Result, well someone tell me if the shavings are good, seemd to peal instead of chip if that makes any sence BUT the result was even better again. I stuck to the same cut depth of I think 0.2mm each time and all hand feed.
DRO would be great but thats for the future is I ever get good with a Mill and use it oftern. Power feed, well I do have a window wiper motor that I have already taken apart and seems just about right.
I will need a little advice on cutting the Squish and do a little write up on that in a moment.
Comments please
Had another go at grinding some HSS bar, this time I tried to copy the Cabride one I used that gave me a good finish.
Result, well someone tell me if the shavings are good, seemd to peal instead of chip if that makes any sence BUT the result was even better again. I stuck to the same cut depth of I think 0.2mm each time and all hand feed.
DRO would be great but thats for the future is I ever get good with a Mill and use it oftern. Power feed, well I do have a window wiper motor that I have already taken apart and seems just about right.
I will need a little advice on cutting the Squish and do a little write up on that in a moment.
Comments please
