Plastidip paint.

[Weldinator]

What are peoples thoughts about this paint. Ive heard its very hard wearing, so could be used when people dont have use of 2k spraying equipments etc.

http://www.plastidip.co.uk/

 

[Chipper]

It's strange stuff, quite rubbery, little grip, needs a rough/scuffed surface to cling on to. Not a subsitute for paint really. Though a guy on another forum was going to coat his Landy chassis with it, but don't think he did in the end. Wouldn't do that myself. Think of it more as what it is i.e. a plastic coating than a paint substitute. Not great to repair and no flat/polish like paint.

 

[awemawson]

I've used it to dip the handles of home made tools (T bar allen keys etc) for the lathe, - thick goopy stuff and I'd not attempt to paint anything with it. 'Dip' is in the name for a reason!

 

[BrokenBiker]

it does sound just like hot dip, but without the hot lol

wouldnt want to paint with it, i suppose it would make a good underseal though

 

[langy]

What are peoples thoughts about this paint. Ive heard its very hard wearing, so could be used when people dont have use of 2k spraying equipments etc.

http://www.plastidip.co.uk/

No substitute i'm afraid, Good for dipping and marking tool handles though.

 

[Chipper]

There is a sprayable version of it, in tins and aerosol form - I've used that a long time ago, and the dipping glop. That needed their own thinners which is naphtha (spelling?) based else it dries up into a big ol' solid plastic tube...
Can't see much point in it for underbody/chassis etc when there's good systems about that are easier to live with. It doesn't grip like paint either, you can peel it all off smooth things.

 

[overload]

I've used a spray can of the stuff to turn my front grille on a Nissan Navara from chrome to matt black as I hate chrome!!!

Good stuff for decorative purposes but not hard wearing at all.

 

[Dev]

Might be handy for making "feet" on the ends of box section. Build it up like they used to do when making candles.

 

[Skillster]

There's a chap on the MG Car Club forum who has used this as a clear underseal (after painting in the underside of his BGT V8 in the usual way). Not heard how it has stood up to use, but seems to be a good idea. His thinking was that given black underseal's ability to crack, let in water and hide all its activity, the clear rubberised coat would offer some protection and let him see what was going on.

See here: http://www.freewebs.com/thefairwatercollection/mgwinter0809v8sound.htm

Wouldn't want to use it as a 'paint' on its own.

 

[langy]

There's a chap on the MG Car Club forum who has used this as a clear underseal (after painting in the underside of his BGT V8 in the usual way). Not heard how it has stood up to use, but seems to be a good idea. His thinking was that given black underseal's ability to crack, let in water and hide all its activity, the clear rubberised coat would offer some protection and let him see what was going on.

See here: http://www.freewebs.com/thefairwatercollection/mgwinter0809v8sound.htm

Wouldn't want to use it as a 'paint' on its own.

Bad idea in my opinion, wonder why he didn't do the job properly, cheap get out would of been brush or roller epoxy primer and stonechip.

 

[brightspark]

Bad idea in my opinion, wonder why he didn't do the job properly, cheap get out would of been brush or roller epoxy primer and stonechip.

2 rite it is a bad idea. any water or moisture getting in behind the plastic skin and it will rust behind and travel without u knowing just like powder coating does. as langy says a good coating of epoxy primer or etch primer holds rust at bay without it creeping underneath and traveling along

 

[lexi]

There is a viny paint suitable for going on the galvy chassis etc without primer.

It is old school but has some reputation.

 

[brightspark]

There is a viny paint suitable for going on the galvy chassis etc without primer.

It is old school but has some reputation.

shipley paints plasticoat manor coatings real good stuff

 

[RobGell]

Gents, the BGTV8 in question, was painted with several coats of body colour epoxy paints.

The clear plastidip was an additional chip resisting layer on top of that. It was experimental, and as Skillster said, was designed as the sort of underseal through which you can see any ingress and rusting caused by chipping through both the soft rubber coating and the underlying paint, which you cannot do with a layer of normal types of underbody coatings.

I know very well the issues with powder coating, and won't touch it with a barge pole. This is different, and so far, the clear soft coating has not been penetrated by flying objects, so no chipping to worry about yet.

Besides this, the car in question is a sort of show car and business demonstrator, so was prepped to a high standard generally, part of which was the smooth shiny finish on the underside.

 

[Skillster]

Ahh, the man himself. Saves me asking on the MG forum - it sounds like you are happy with how the Plastidip is performing.

I'm going through the options to finish my B (intended for summer weekend road-use, track days and sprint comps). Its getting epoxy filler/surfacer on the keyed-in factory e-coat. Top coats will be NC-based, if only to accomodate an amateur's skills, allow ease of touching up and will be a more 'period' finish. Fading not a problem as car will be Old English White and kept under covers in a garage.

How to further protect the underside is the final issue I need to decide. From bitter experience I don't like 'stonechip' or trad underseal - I have always thought they are the Devil's work and I have seen and dealt with the aftermath on previous cars - but then I see the Tutorial here shows a type of stonechip being recomended / used. The clear rubberised coating may be one way, but it would be hard to remove for touching up work, were that to be necessary.

Questions, questions....

 

[steveo3002]

if its a garaged car epoxy will be more than enough to keep it nice

 

[RobGell]

Yes, Skillster, definitely use epoxy filler primer rollered on, then I am assuming that you wish to have body colour undersides. I would use epoxy paint for this too. This is certainly the best way of allowing inspection for any areas going off. This will indeed give good protection in itself, and indeed again, the devil's stuff is good to avoid if we can, as underseal is no better than powder coating once it is breached, and usually you don't even know it has been.

If the car is having light careful use, this is a different kettle of fish from a new Eurobox out in all conditions, but even then, you can't avoid stone chipping, especially under the arches. The trouble with light colours is that every chip will show, although admittedly if they only go through to the primer, with white, the show will be minimal as two pack primer is almost white anyway. The trouble then is that they will only show when they go right through. My clear rubber over layer was designed to prevent initial chipping of the top colour coat. So far, this car has only done a few hundred miles, but as yet, no visible chips have occured, and everything is well sealed up underneath. If any breaches do go right through still, then the rubber coat can be taken off with petrol or brake cleaner.

The thing is, whatever sort of stone chip protector you use, if you wish to coat that body colour, that colour will need protection in itself, otherwise it will inevitably become pock marked with chips at some stage.

Don't think you're belittling yourself by using celly as a finish coat top side. If anything is is harder to do than two pack as it dries so quickly, so if you can't "chase the wet edge" all the time, getting round it pretty quickly, the whole car will be akin to a "blow in job", although this will all polish out okay, but the good things about it are those you stated: ease of working, it's almost impossible to block your spray gun up! ease of maintenance, correct period finish, etc. and it is superb stuff. You will get less dust in it, as it dries quickly and this is easily polished out. You won't end up with everything in your garage or whatever your spray facility is, covered in sticky two pack paint mist either.

 

[Weldinator]

Interesting read so far, so the clear rubber paint on top of base coat acrylic would give that extra protection ?

I have used high zinc primer on the floor pan and applied 3 coats worth which is more than enough. I have also tested its adhesion and it does seem to self etch into the metal. It doesn't scratch off as long as its surgically clean using brake cleaner, good quality degreaser etc, if not it will come off easily IME.

If water did get in-between the stonechip then the marine grade zinc primer will stop it rusting until the garage heat dries it off and longer being marine grade.

 

[langy]

Ahh, the man himself. Saves me asking on the MG forum - it sounds like you are happy with how the Plastidip is performing.

I'm going through the options to finish my B (intended for summer weekend road-use, track days and sprint comps). Its getting epoxy filler/surfacer on the keyed-in factory e-coat. Top coats will be NC-based, if only to accomodate an amateur's skills, allow ease of touching up and will be a more 'period' finish. Fading not a problem as car will be Old English White and kept under covers in a garage.

How to further protect the underside is the final issue I need to decide. From bitter experience I don't like 'stonechip' or trad underseal - I have always thought they are the Devil's work and I have seen and dealt with the aftermath on previous cars - but then I see the Tutorial here shows a type of stonechip being recomended / used. The clear rubberised coating may be one way, but it would be hard to remove for touching up work, were that to be necessary.

Questions, questions....

If the stonechip is decent stuff and put on properly on top of Epoxy primer you will have a very tough coating, I did it this way on my workshop truck and it was still perfect after 12 years and 80,000 miles, no chips

 

[langy]

Yes, Skillster, definitely use epoxy filler primer rollered on, then I am assuming that you wish to have body colour undersides. I would use epoxy paint for this too. This is certainly the best way of allowing inspection for any areas going off. This will indeed give good protection in itself, and indeed again, the devil's stuff is good to avoid if we can, as underseal is no better than powder coating once it is breached, and usually you don't even know it has been.

If the car is having light careful use, this is a different kettle of fish from a new Eurobox out in all conditions, but even then, you can't avoid stone chipping, especially under the arches. The trouble with light colours is that every chip will show, although admittedly if they only go through to the primer, with white, the show will be minimal as two pack primer is almost white anyway. The trouble then is that they will only show when they go right through. My clear rubber over layer was designed to prevent initial chipping of the top colour coat. So far, this car has only done a few hundred miles, but as yet, no visible chips have occured, and everything is well sealed up underneath. If any breaches do go right through still, then the rubber coat can be taken off with petrol or brake cleaner.

The thing is, whatever sort of stone chip protector you use, if you wish to coat that body colour, that colour will need protection in itself, otherwise it will inevitably become pock marked with chips at some stage.

Don't think you're belittling yourself by using celly as a finish coat top side. If anything is is harder to do than two pack as it dries so quickly, so if you can't "chase the wet edge" all the time, getting round it pretty quickly, the whole car will be akin to a "blow in job", although this will all polish out okay, but the good things about it are those you stated: ease of working, it's almost impossible to block your spray gun up! ease of maintenance, correct period finish, etc. and it is superb stuff. You will get less dust in it, as it dries quickly and this is easily polished out. You won't end up with everything in your garage or whatever your spray facility is, covered in sticky two pack paint mist either.

The easy answer to most of the questions is to use Epoxy prier tinted to the colour you want.
You are missinformed about 2 pack being harder/drying too quick i'm afraid.