Plaster after damp proof treatment?

[gaz1]

mines a soil filled wall and therefore suffers from damp only way to stop is is too strip it off and go back to lime based product then fit external french drains or an internal one as well

so from yours paul i need some info

how high up was the damp coarse injected 1,2,3 bricks high

if your plaster boading you can get 9mm plaster boards but you will use bonding for dot and dab

any wood in your damp coarse area will suffer from damp you can use plastic window board to create a space before your wood skirting board goes on as you can make plastic wedges instead of the old wood type wedge that was well used

the wedges create an airspace behind the skirting

 

[Wozzaaah]

Had our hall, stairwell and landing done in Limelite and High Impact, the chap who did it uses it a lot in cellars and swears by it.
Very expensive compared to sand/cement and multi-finish but hopefully it should last many, many years.
Regarding paint finish, trade matt emulsion is all that's required, as it's breathable.

 

[Colin Barron]

I had to re plaster some walls because i had not followed the correct procedure, i thought i had done it correctly at the time. Touch it once, dampness will find a way.

 

[Welderpaul]

Had our hall, stairwell and landing done in Limelite and High Impact, the chap who did it uses it a lot in cellars and swears by it.
Very expensive compared to sand/cement and multi-finish but hopefully it should last many, many years.
Regarding paint finish, trade matt emulsion is all that's required, as it's breathable.

Did you have damp?

 

[Wozzaaah]

Did you have damp?

Yes, especially the external wall (red brick exterior, rubble interior). Someone many years ago had even taken off the bottom 500mm or so of plaster and replaced it with asbestos sheeting!

 

[Gritineye]

I specialised in country cottage renovation before I retired, this was the way I did it.

A little known fact ignored by sales men is that Injection damp proofing has a limited life, and subject to operator error.

Which is why the usual way to re-plaster was a first coat of 3:1 washed sand, plain cement with waterproofer, well scratched for bond.

This waterproofing coat was in anticipation of the chemical dpc failing in time and to hold back any salts.

Second coat applied same day when the first had just gone off 8:1:1 builders sand, Mastercrete, hydrated lime.
Putting it on next day after the first coat has dried leads to poor adhesion.

This coat was to reduce the chance of condensation on the waterproof layer, and provide an absorbent surface for the finish.

When all areas are rendered and dry, skim as normal with your preferred finish plaster, I used multi finish.

There seem to be way too many products on the market now all set on bambozzleing us into buying them, the way I did it was simple and it works, never had a comeback.

 

[brightspark]

its just as quick and bombproof taking a meter of bricks out at a time putting a proper visqueen dpc in and use engineering bricks cleaning the cavity out at same time 3 of my rooms been done like that and the rest injected and tanked

 

[Gritineye]

its just as quick and bombproof taking a meter of bricks out at a time putting a proper visqueen dpc in and use engineering bricks cleaning the cavity out at same time 3 of my rooms been done like that and the rest injected and tanked

That's how I did my own place, customers usually can't wait that long in my experience.

 

[gaz1]

its just as quick and bombproof taking a meter of bricks out at a time putting a proper visqueen dpc in and use engineering bricks cleaning the cavity out at same time 3 of my rooms been done like that and the rest injected and tanked

cant clean cavity out as its soiled filled built walls

so damp is one issue that has to be put up with as an old property with no foundations as such and certainly no damp coarse either