Pickup toolbox, experience (help) wanted

  1. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE
    Hi people, a friend is asking for his pickup.
    I need to make him a toolbox like in the picture.

    I dont have the equipment for aluminium welding, so i'm looking for advice :)
    Bending and rivets ? or all steel and welded ?

    téléchargement.jpg
     
  2. James1979 Member

    Messages:
    433
    Location:
    Orkney
    image.jpg I researched these for months for my truck. There’s a guy on YouTube who did a build. In the end I decided they all sucked and bought this....

    excuse the mess. I’ve had it all out this morning
     
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  3. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE
    Actually i dont need the inside organizer, only the box itself
     
  4. James1979 Member

    Messages:
    433
    Location:
    Orkney
    image.jpg Comes as a unit. Google Sealey Wedge.

    those truck boxes are a nuisance. Too high. You can’t reach everything. At the front of the bed, can restrict bed length.
    Heavy as hell and a bugger to get in and out when loaded.
     
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  5. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE
    It's going to stay in the pickup's bed, and top loaded accessible from each side, and leave a 30cm gap underneath
     
  6. James1979 Member

    Messages:
    433
    Location:
    Orkney
    Makes sense. If height isn’t an issue what about two wings hinged in the middle (fwd / aft) rather than one lid hinged side to side?

    I vote for pneumatic ram to hold it up after being whumped in the head a few times by toolbox lids on trucks!!
     
  7. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE

    Yup that's the design i have in mind, center hinged, so he can stuff his hunting gear in it, and some recovery straps as well.

    But i cant weld aluminium, riveted will be strong enough or make it out of steel ?
     
  8. tom2207 Member

    Messages:
    1,568
    Location:
    uk northern ireland
    Take a look at flight cases ,, they are put together with a special extrusion , may be a way to go .
     
  9. stuvy

    stuvy Member

    Does he need the weight saving?

    If so cut it to size and get some one else to tig it together

    if not a steel one will do a few fold lines or swage lines will add extra strength to steel
     
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  10. Turbo Member

    Messages:
    3,546
    Location:
    Fermanagh, Northern Ireland
    If you rivet it it won't be very secure!
     
  11. James1979 Member

    Messages:
    433
    Location:
    Orkney
    They rivet aircraft! It'll be more than strong enough. You can get a rivet 'plan' which takes into account the thickness and load bearing eff. Not done much design work with rivets to spec but there will be free software somewhere online if you wanted to go that route

    Stuff I've designed and riveted has just been by the look of it but it's never customers stuff just mine. Good blind rivets are made by cherry. I think I'd use solid rivets and deform them. Would look good also.
     
  12. Robbie260 Member

    Messages:
    888
    Location:
    Scotland highland
    20200210_164514.jpg


    I went with one of these for my pickup as the over bed boxes arent that secure these are a bit better when the tail gate is also locked, no way your prying it open.

    If it must be an over the bed box nj aluminium do some similar items which may give you some ideas. https://www.njaluminiumlinings.com

    Since no aluminium welder is available. The way to do it is rivet and glue with an automotive body work grade sealant like tiger seal or silka flex. You would need to do. Remember aluminium work hardens as it bends and becomes more brittle, you generally have to heat it gently before you bend it to reduce the chances of this. Have been told to run a bar of green soap down the fold line before heating and when it starts to brown its hot enough, also sheet of news paper taped to it and when it starts to go brown with heat its hot enough.
     
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  13. metalmelt Member

    Messages:
    102
    Location:
    UK
    Robbie, while I agree with your rivet and glue approach I would not suggest using what you recommend, you can get decent quality aluminium adhesives and these are better that general adhesives.
     
    Robbie260 likes this.
  14. Migmac

    Migmac Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,207
    Location:
    Kintyre. Scotland
    Does he use the back seat?
    My work truck is a four door, no back seat. It’s been removed and a dog box that takes up 2/3 of that area put in. The other 1/3 is for storage. There is storage under the floor too. Dogs are warm after a wet day at work, gear is safer
     
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  15. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE

    Aluminium adhesives ? you have an example ?
     
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  16. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE

    It's not a crew cab, the back seat is almost non existant and he keeps his rifles there under the bench.
     
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  17. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE
  18. James1979 Member

    Messages:
    433
    Location:
    Orkney
    What I’ve done. Works well. Night heater under dog box too.
     
  19. James1979 Member

    Messages:
    433
    Location:
    Orkney
    Any where local with a brake? I’d fold the length from one piece and then make two ends with internal flanges to rivet on. Deal with sika or proper Ali stuff.
     
  20. Jay1st

    Jay1st Member

    Messages:
    105
    Location:
    South West FRANCE
    I've found a guy, has a welding shop, and has a brake press able to bend 6mm steel, and he's asking 20-30€ what ever the bends and size, kind of unique price :)

    Thinking about sika and regular rivets from underneath so all joints are hidden, and for the sides Sika will do
     
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