Photo Journal - Learning Stick Welding [56k Warning!]

[Toscane]

Here is the photographic evidence of my very first stick welding attempts. I am going to keep posting pictures of my welds in this thread so I can get feedback from more experienced users and improve my technique.

Also it might be useful for the beginners in the future...

...or not.

Anyways, here we go.

Welding Machine: I am using a small inverter but I don't know if its DC or AC, can't be both right? So I'm posting the specifications of my inverter as a first picture.

Rods: I couldn't find anything other than some domestic brand which is manufactured where I live, made in a factory about 2 hours away from me so I'm stuck with them. They are called Oerlikon and I got the Overcord-S model, 2.00x300 dimensions, 6013.

1.2mm sheet metal, setting 40-50, welder (+):

As you can see in the last 2 pictures, sheet metal warped very badly; it was as flat as Calista Flockhart's chest in the beginning. I guess I need to take it slow on her, she can't handle too much heat I assume.

Oh and I can go as thick as 1.5mm sheet metal, if I push it too much I can get 2.0mm but that, will hurt. I know it's hard to stick weld thin metal but I have to nail it, soon.

Okay, now your turn people, what do you think?

P.S. Stick welding is absolute fun! It's very addicting and sensation of feeling the heat, electric and burning metal is incredible! It's 2 AM and I'm waiting for the damn rain to stop so I can go outside and continue!

I'm so happy I got in this, I love my stick! It's so fun to spend time with it!

 

[shenion]

If the welder has +/- terminals, it is DC

Try using the electrode on the - terminal. Should be a bit easier on thin metal.

Looks good.

 

[zzr1200]

"Rods: I couldn't find anything other than some domestic brand which is manufactured where I live, made in a factory about 2 hours away from me so I'm stuck with them. They are called Oerlikon and I got the Overcord-S model, 2.00x300 dimensions, 6013."


Theres nothing wrong with Oerlikon rods, a well know quality brand, I've burnt a few thousand over the years....

 

[GeorgeB]

I'm not expert but even your weld no 1 looks very good to me. There's almost no splatter and it's only the bead profile which could no doubt be tidied-up a bit by a real pro like FJ. There certainly doesn't seem to be anything lacking with either the machine or the welding rods - a good start, in fact better than good if that was your very first attempt - more like amazing.

 

[Toscane]

If the welder has +/- terminals, it is DC

Try using the electrode on the - terminal. Should be a bit easier on thin metal.

Looks good.

So mine is DC, thank you for the clarification.

I did try using it on negative terminal but rod seems to get pretty hot, sometimes glowing red and couple of bent rods. Other than that, I didn't notice any changes on the welds; there are some pictures marked with a permanent marker with (-) on the sheet metal.

Maybe I'm not that familiar with the process yet to be aware of such nuances.

I also tried joining 2 pieces together with 90 degree angle but burnt holes pretty quick. Doing flat weld doesn't burn a hole that fast, any special ways of joining? I just hold the piece together and start welding like flat welds. I keep the rod in the middle, 45 degrees from each wall.

I'm not expert but even your weld no 1 looks very good to me. There's almost no splatter and it's only the bead profile which could no doubt be tidied-up a bit by a real pro like FJ. There certainly doesn't seem to be anything lacking with either the machine or the welding rods - a good start, in fact better than good if that was your very first attempt - more like amazing.

Yep, it was my very first attempt. I didn't think that it was good, I'm pretty surprised by your reaction; thanks though. It might be because of what I do most of time, using my hands to mess with things around me; they call it art, I don't. Although technically I'm an artist...

Weird thing is I use my ears more than my eyes when welding, didn't expect that. Focusing on sound gives better results compared to staring at the pool in my experience.

Anyways, any ideas how to improve my technique?

And the second set of pictures down below.

Oh and I tried vertical welding and it was, well... Unpleasant. Sparks and liquid metal was way too much than flat welding and they were all aimed at myself. Is this normal? I could feel the sparks hitting the helmet and my gloves and helmet covered with this thin, brownish-golden coloured dust after couple of rods.

Well, that sums it up I suppose. Ah, photos...

Will be back with more. I'm sorry if there are duplicates or same welds with different angles; I was distracted while photographing.

 

[shenion]

If your rods are melting , the current is up too hogh.

Vertical on thin metals use a vertical down.

I'm surprised you are getting so well on thin metal. Drag the rod and and move quick to keep from blowing holes.

 

[Toscane]

Oh... I didn't try lowering the current on negative, I will try it tomorrow to see how it goes.

Is "vertical down" a name of a technique? I don't understand it, sorry.

Thank you for your comment about my welding, I appreciate it.

I sometimes drag the rod but it sounds awkward, like burning hair, tons of weird cracks. I also try going faster but sometimes I can't calculate how much air to inhale precisely when striking the arc and run out of oxygen in the middle of welding and need to exhale... Which breaks my concentration and ruins the distance between the rod and metal, that leads to me slowing down and trying to adjust the distance again and POOF!

A hole...

 

[shenion]

When the the sheet it vertical, move rod from top to bottom. When doing thin metal, I position it vertical as vertical down is sthe easiest.

Working bottom up, the heat rises and preheats the metal ahead and makes it easier to blow holes.

Working top-down, it sets up a chimney effect and you have cool air causing the weld pool to solidify faster.

On smaller rods (2mm or less), I pretty much drag them all the time. Smaller rods have more flux than metal, so slag inclusions (slag caught in joint) become a problem. On small rods, the flux coating extends past the end of the rod. So, you already have most of the desired arc length (rod diameter) inside the end of what you see.

Dragging will become real significant when doing inside corners as the flux gets in the way.

My welder has no amps markings, just low/mid/high switch and 0-100. I had written what i had found best on the rod boxes when I started learning (i.e. low/65). I find dragging them takes a bit higher current.

One thing counter-intuitive is as you increase the arc length, the heat goes up. Current stays the same, but voltage goes up so more power. If the weld pool gets too big, keep the rod close to keep from blowing through or move faster; don't pull back.

 

[Toscane]

Nice post shenion, highly appreciated!

Dragging do, in fact, become real significant when doing inside corners! I was ending up with this weird blob like hot metal ahead of the rod but dragging made that dissappear. :thumbsup:

This piece of tip, brother, "One thing counter-intuitive is as you increase the arc length, the heat goes up. Current stays the same, but voltage goes up so more power. If the weld pool gets too big, keep the rod close to keep from blowing through or move faster; don't pull back." is priceless! Makes so much sense now! I am more "in control" of the arc, rod and metal now!

Thank you very much!

I am going to post more pictures but got some cutting, shaping on my plate with higher priority than welding so excuse the absence of updates.