Peugeot 106 Rallye S1

[Cris B]

So having done the drivers side front inner wing, I moved on to the passenger side and started chopping out the rotten bits.

Bit of reinforcement

Done... for now. When I tackle the sill replacement it's all going to get messed up!

Inside the engine bay did a chop and swap on the battery tray/gearbox mount from this

To this

Made some extra bits:

Added them in and finished the chassis reinforcement

Primer was still wet in this photo

Then decided the battery was going in the cabin behind the passenger seat and chopped the mounting back to the gearbox mount

 

[Cris B]

Along the way...

Sourced a load of discs to plate and cover the surplus holes in the bulkhead and interior

Interior done

I bought a new brake set up from the legend that is Dave Hunt over at Red Hill Motorsport in Ireland. It came off one of Dave's projects when he upgraded and is perfect for this car. It came with a brace that needed to be added to the inner wing next to the gear box mount.

Fitted

Whilst in a creative mood, started the reinforcement on the rear engine mount to the bulkhead.

Some more work is needed on the underside to strengthen that at a later date. You notice some of the blanking discs deployed

 

[Cris B]

The slam panel was looking a bit rough so I decided that the best thing to do was get it blasted.

Well worth it - brilliant job done and epoxy primed straight afterwards

The reinforcement at the catch mounting needed replacing so whipped that off

Made a replacement

Added some speed holes and welded it in

Made some brackets to mount the radiator

That's in with the slam panel

 

[Cris B]

The "Satch Shift". Probably the one bit of engineering that Satchell Engineering is most well known for. Available for a range of French hot hatches, it brings the gear stick closer to the steering wheel. It's designed to be bolt in to a shell but I wanted a cleaner look. so...

Tunnel done...

Bulkhead drilled and captive nuts welded on for convenience (and because otherwise the gaiter plate is a right faff to fit)

Parts mounted in the interior...

...and the bulkhead.

 

[Cris B]

On a past project I added a co-drivers foot rest and wanted to build on that experience this time around.

So rather than riv-nuts this time I went with captive nuts in channel welded in

That'll work

In the same order I bought some pedal covers which weren't quite the right curvature for the job

Some gentle persuasion later...

Drilling the pedals is not easy because of how the flats are welded to the arms, but it can be done...

Finished

 

[Cris B]

So with work in the engine bay largely done it was time to have a think about the throttle bodies. So engine crane deployed, gearbox mounted up and the assembly lowered in. Much simpler with the removable front bar. The 16v TU5JP4 engine has had some work done on it with a ported head and some other work. The BE gearbox has a Quaife LSD.

Throttle bodies on (don't panic the head ports are covered up) and the scuttle panel marked up with tape.

Initial letterbox cut.

Due to the curvature it needed a bit of refinement once the trumpets went on

Chopped right up to the central bracket (which needed some modification itself) due to the way in which it was fitted from factory.

I haven't decided exactly how I am going to build the air box yet, but the current plan is to mimic the approach Dave Paterson took in his very successful hill climb car. Dave used carbon sheet to cover the scuttle and stuck a really big panel K&N filter into it. So whilst I work that detail out I'm leaving this for now.

A pic of Dave's car from when I met up with him in April 2012 at the British Speed Hill Climb Championship @Prescott

 

[Cris B]

I wanted a way to mount the catch tank and was feeling creative so I came up with this

Test fit

Lick of paint on this and the coil pack holder

That's in. The idea is to keep it at the same height as the head.

 

[Cris B]

That brings the project more or less up to date. The next job is the passenger side sill which has a hole in it and has been fixed previously.

I think the best cure is a new sill. Unfortunately, no spare panels can be sourced any more so it is over to the scrap yards to find one. That in itself is an increasingly tricky challenge as scrap yards start getting rid of older cars they think people don't want anymore. I did a lot of looking and eventually found a sill, but when I split it open it was soon apparent I'd be doing repairs on the repair panel before that was getting used:

More spot weld drilling later...

Let the repairs begin. I reckoned it was easier doing on the workbench that on the car!

 

[Cris B]

The state of the repair sill was so bad I decided I needed to find another donor shell. Much scrap yard scouring later I found another car.

Thinking forwards I decided I would get both sills and the boot floor. Suitably marked out I left the scrap yards fellas to do the business with a big Stihl saw and went back a couple of days later to collect the bits: A pair of sills and a boot floor.

Hmm, there is a flaw in this

The saving grace was at least it was the most useful end of the less-than-half-a-sill that I ended up with before they crushed the rest of the shell and at least it was in better condition once split

Which meant I could chop out the first effort and put something better back in

The jacking point plates were very badly corroded - like they did not have the same chassis treatment as the rest of the panel and they were so pitted I had some laser cut and folded

I have now done half of the replacement sill repairs and have epoxy primed them.

The other half of the repair sill has been split and I need to get to work on that

Before Brexit a genuine Peugeot repair panel (the bottom piece in the above photo) appeared on eBay in Italy. £160 plus £40 postage! (Un)fortunately it was not for this side of the car anyway!

 

[Cris B]

So that brings progress up to date. Next tasks are:

• Finish repairs to the replacement sill panels above.
• Build a chassis dolly.
• Create and weld in some door aperture cross braces
• Chop the old sill out and replace.

As I am not looking forward to the sill panel repairs I have ordered the dolly wheels and a new chop saw and am just finalising the design to put my steel order in

 

[Cris B]

So years ago when working on another project I built this so I could work under the car. It was all made out of salvaged scrap - some junked gym equipment and an old bed frame:

One of the biggest problems was that the frame design rather got in the way of working under the car. The other problem was that the two fixed castors wheels made moving it about pretty awkward, particularly with a car on it. The whole thing was thrown together in a couple of hours, I never painted it and very much functional. At the end of the project I cut it up and scrapped it.

This time around I wanted something that I could modularise for storage and purpose. It needs to be a chassis dollie for a shell with no suspension (picking up on the front wishbone mounts and rear beam mounts). I want to be able to take those chassis mounting verticals off and use it as a car dolly for an assembled car too so this is what I have come up with.

 

[dashed]

Fascinating threat!

Very random sheet metal question (apologies - I have no idea about this stuff!) - all of the holes you've created in the sheet metal have a formed lip on them, presumably for strength, but how do you actually form the lip? I'm guessing some sort of die is involved?

 

[Cris B]

Fascinating threat!

Very random sheet metal question (apologies - I have no idea about this stuff!) - all of the holes you've created in the sheet metal have a formed lip on them, presumably for strength, but how do you actually form the lip? I'm guessing some sort of die is involved?

Thanks for the comment

I have a swager set for doing the speed holes. Satchell Engineering produced the ones I have.

 

[Cris B]

Chop saw picked up over the weekend. I have a Dewalt mitre saw and whilst I have used it for some light metal work very occasionally given what is coming up I thought that I would get a dedicated tool. I've had a few other Evolution products (sabre saw, table saw and power file) and been very pleased with them so went for the Rage 4 after reading the reviews. For the amount of use it will get overall I think it should be a good investment.

The castors arrived earlier this week, 125mm 250 kg rated. So they're chunky and over-spec'd given a whole 106 Rallye is only 825kg and the shell is a fraction of that. 4 braked castors (at the botton of the box) so there's one for each corner and 4 normal ones.

Metal is ordered and should be delivered after the weekend as I am getting some plates cut for the car wheels to sit on.

 

[Cris B]

It was all going so well, metal arrived and then the next day I had a van load of furniture from a relative stored in the garage. Hoping to have moved that on by this weekend so I can get back to this…

 

[Cris B]

Found a few hours over the weekend so cracked on.

Getting the plates laser cut was a massive time saver. Probably could have had the holes added in but didn't hame the measurements at the time and it didn't take too long to put them in on the pillar drill.

I may cap the ends where they act as the wheel chocks but this felt like forwards progress. Making the spine to link the wheel dollies and upright chassis supports comes next.

Need to get some more 20mm bolts, but just wanted it thrown together at this stage. I may just degrease the steel and clear coat it. As I'lll be working on the car once it's mounted getting it powder coated seemed a bit pointless with grinding sparks and weld splatter to follow...

 

[Cris B]

Appreciate pictures or it didn't happen is a thing, but I was too busy doing to take as many pictures as I should have and so will have to put them up after Easter when I get back in the garage, take things apart and take some retrospective pics.

Summary of progress is that the dollie is done with the exception of four strengthening gussets to add in which are all cut and prepped, it's just finding the time to get them done. The design was amended on the fly because the design and reality did not align All will become clear...

When I came to drop the rear beam I discovered it was only held on by two of the four bolts which was a bit of a WTF moment, but in fairness I think it had been on a rotisserie previously and was the beam was just thrown on to get the car rolling for when I bought it. Getting the beam off was easy, fuel tank was a different matter.

The plastic fuel tank sits on two brackets at the front and the rear is held on by two nuts and captive studs. One of the captive studs had stripped threads and the nut was just spinning and not coming off. Because it was in a recess in the plastic tank there was no way to get a nut splitter on it.

So the only way to get the tank off was to open up the other side of the box section and grind off the head of the captive stud and then punch out the rest. After that I found an OEM bolt that had a captive washer on it, which with the washer removed was a perfect replacement. So welded that in.

Cleaned out the inside of the box section and with the repair painted up, closed up the cut section and moved back to the main job. There was probably a swirl pot fitted here at some point so I filled in the holes where that had been mounted too.

To mount the rear of the dollie to the chassis, I used a hole saw and lots of water to cut out the metal bush insert from some of the very worn out beam bushes. The majority of the rubber cut off with a blade and then tickled with a cleaning fleece on the grinder they were ready. Measured the centres and then drilled what would become the cross member piece.

Welded in, the cross member is drilled to allow the fuel tank studs to fit.

Capped off the ends.

To be continued...

 

[Cris B]

I need to do some bumper repairs on the Audi and some time ago I imported an Polyvance plastic welding kit from the US - they do a Euro-spec kit if you shop carefully you can get one sent over. I thought that before I have a go with some expensive German plastic, I'd have a go at some cheaper French stuff,

The wheel arch lines on Peugeot 106s generally have a hard life, but the design is also a bit weak as they incorporate a flap that gives access to aid changing the bulbs in the front lights. The pair of arch liners I had were broken and in need of repair so I thought I would use them as the basis to learn a new form of welding. Dad is staying for Easter so we both gave it a go.

The kit is basically a hot iron, some stainless mesh and plastic filler rods. Pretty straight forwards. So started with some crack repairs and worked up to filling in some holes and rebuilding some sections that had suffered from tyre rub at some point. Here are the results.

You can sand it down once finished but the messy bit where the mesh gets melted in and the strength is built up isn't going to be visible, so I'm just going to leave it. Properly strong once done.

 

[Cris B]

After posting last night I looked into the arch liners. You used to be able to get them for about £40 each. The last few that are selling are now going for over £100 each! Madness.

 

[Cris B]

Finished the chassis dollie, welding in some strengthening gussets to the rear assembly.

All bolted up and ready to go.

The front end assembly.