parweld xti 160 or esab buddy 180 inverter , which is best

[dico]

hi, i am in need of a new arc welder , a.s.a.p
which inverter do you guys think is best ,either the pareweld xti 160, or, the esab buddy arc180 inverter
all help to this question gratefully recieved .
thanks

 

[BrokenBiker]

I have a parweld xti160 and love it, havent tried the esab so cant comment on it.

i find the parweld very smooth, easy to strike even with cheap rods, arc force and anti stick seem to work well and the tig function is smooth too

 

[dico]

hi brokenbiker , whats the dutycycle like on the parweld machine , is it fan cooled

 

[PTvor]

You're unlikely to find an inverter that's not fan cooled, even the cheapest.

 

[BrokenBiker]

hi brokenbiker , whats the dutycycle like on the parweld machine , is it fan cooled

ive spent that last 3 days burning 2.5mm rods at 70 amps and 3.2mm rods at 110 amps and it hasnt hit the cut out once. all inverters are fan cooled, if its not fan cooled dont buy it. electronics get hot quick and break down even quicker unless they are cooled well.

i think the duty cycle figures are something like 60% at 160 amps and 100% at around 130 amps so unless you are running 4mm rods for a prolonged period i doubt you will hit the cycle on it

 

[blenkie1]

Agree with brokenbiker, Parweld had mine for a few years now and never been a problem. Good value I think

 

[Johnseat]

I haven't tried the esab but I've got the parweld XTI160 it's it's fricken awesome.
I'm used to using the old buzz boxes with the twist handle ampage.

The parweld is a fantastic little inverter welder, when my workshop is built in a few weeks I'll be investing in the lift tig gear for it.
Can't wait to try the lift tig function if the stick function is anything to go by.
I've only had the stick not strike up on the first go about 4 or 5 times and that's it.

 

[BrokenBiker]

I haven't tried the esab but I've got the parweld XTI160 it's it's fricken awesome.
I'm used to using the old buzz boxes with the twist handle ampage.

The parweld is a fantastic little inverter welder, when my workshop is built in a few weeks I'll be investing in the lift tig gear for it.
Can't wait to try the lift tig function if the stick function is anything to go by.
I've only had the stick not strike up on the first go about 4 or 5 times and that's it.

i used the tig function on my first one quite a bit and its very smooth...it uses the hot start feature and the anti stick to get the arc going so it tens to flare up a little bit but settles down really quickly and its nice and smooth

 

[Appyasme1]

hi, i am in need of a new arc welder , a.s.a.p
which inverter do you guys think is best ,either the pareweld xti 160, or, the esab buddy arc180 inverter
all help to this question gratefully recieved .
thanks

ESAB Every time!!

 

[Sarto]

Why?
Is it so much better?

 

[PTvor]

Why?
Is it so much better?

There are several people on here who have one or the other, probably more with the Parweld, and there aren't many complaints about either.

Two or three years back the subject came up and a regular poster, who ought to know what he's talking about, said that these and a few others were the same, or very similar designs, and came out of the same factory but had different cases.

 

[Richard.]

Afew subtle differences between them like max current, colour and the company backing them but otherwise they are the same units.

 

[6 milli billi]

The things to look at when comparing such machines;
1. Duty Cycle
2. Voltage tolerance
3. Ability to work with extension leads (either workpiece nad electrode holder or mains lead)
4. Open circuit voltage (higher will help to run different types of electrodes, eg 7018, 6010, 6011 rather than just standard 6013)
5. Hot start function
6. Warranty terms
7. Price
8. Actual manufacturer
9. Back up

Not necessarily in that order, others may add more too.

Duty Cycle of Parweld is 25% @ 160 amps and 100% at 80 amps, not as mentioned above! and OCV is 60v (low) so be careful (though maybe you have decided already?)

Hope this helps

Regards
6 Milli

 

[BrokenBiker]

The things to look at when comparing such machines;
1. Duty Cycle
2. Voltage tolerance
3. Ability to work with extension leads (either workpiece nad electrode holder or mains lead)
4. Open circuit voltage (higher will help to run different types of electrodes, eg 7018, 6010, 6011 rather than just standard 6013)
5. Hot start function
6. Warranty terms
7. Price
8. Actual manufacturer
9. Back up

Not necessarily in that order, others may add more too.

Duty Cycle of Parweld is 25% @ 160 amps and 100% at 80 amps, not as mentioned above! and OCV is 60v (low) so be careful (though maybe you have decided already?)

Hope this helps

Regards
6 Milli

how often do you run a stick welder at 160 amps? and if you do run one for long periods where the duty is an issue then you would be using a much bigger machine anyway so its still not an issue.

i can tell you now it will run 3.2 rods at 120-130 amps all day long without even thinking about cutting out

 

[BrokenBiker]

Afew subtle differences between them like max current, colour and the company backing them but otherwise they are the same units.

thats why i went with the parweld the first time...cheaper and virtually the same unit

 

[Wendelspanswick]

how often do you run a stick welder at 160 amps? and if you do run one for long periods where the duty is an issue then you would be using a much bigger machine anyway so its still not an issue.

i can tell you now it will run 3.2 rods at 120-130 amps all day long without even thinking about cutting out

Depends what your welding, yes if your just doing the odd repair or small project in the workshop than you are unlikely to exceed the duty cycle but if you are fabricating heavy steels onsite in full sun than you will want a decent duty cycle if you don't want to be frustrated.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Depends what your welding, yes if your just doing the odd repair or small project in the workshop than you are unlikely to exceed the duty cycle but if you are fabricating heavy steels onsite in full sun than you will want a decent duty cycle if you don't want to be frustrated.

my point was, if you are going to be constantly pushing these units to their max then you are better off looking for a bigger unit, and with that you will get a better duty cycle. as i say i have spent hours with mine just sat running beads with 2.5 and 3.2mm 6013 and its not cut out on me once yet

 

[Richard.]

6013 and its not cut out on me once yet

And it won't!!
I think the pcbs are designed to fail first. (Joking by the way)

 

[BrokenBiker]

And it won't!!
I think the pcbs are designed to fail first. (Joking by the way)

i dont care its under warranty lol

i must admit there is a hell of a fan on my parweld.

 

[Richard.]

^^^ dead right.
Machine should cut out on overload well before your mains trip out. If it doesn't the supply is underrated. If it does your supply is fine and your battering the poor thing.