Parkside plasma settings

[BrokenBiker]

So, I had a play yesterday to make sure it works but as it's A birthday present I've been banished til Friday.

Looking for a basic settings guide or method of working out like the Tig welding 40a per thou sort of thing.

More so to keep consumables healthy, but also to limit the slag clean up.

I have a few lengths of box section that needs to be rough cut in half, some strips of flat bar and angle that needs to be accurately cut to size (maybe +/-1mm) so a straight edge will be used but I'd like to not have to then get the grinder out to clean up afterwards.

I don't currently need to up the power on the machine to 40A, only cutting 2-3mm steel for now, and some 5mm scrap to chop up after that.

 

[zzr1200]

I have an R-Tech 50 amp, I tend to use full power and adjust my cutting speed travel, there's various how to's on Y/T. yes you can try adjusting the power but that becomes a pain at times. Good clean dry air is the key to good plasma cutting and travel speed control...

 

[Barking Mat]

I have an R-Tech 50 amp, I tend to use full power and adjust my cutting speed travel, there's various how to's on Y/T. yes you can try adjusting the power but that becomes a pain at times. Good clean dry air is the key to good plasma cutting and travel speed control...

As above, good advice.

 

[BrokenBiker]

Dry air isn't a problem, I have an air drier on the compressor and on the plasma, I did initially set it at about 25 amps but couldn't keep up with the cut on 1mm steel and left a mess on the back. Air set at 4.5 bar as recommended in the book.

On the 5mm at 30amps cutting seemed slow but I would say my technique was probably off as well. It sailed through 3mm ally and 1.5mm stainless with nice clean cuts, the ally just needed a quick go with a file, the stainless was pretty clean and would have been fine to mig weld as is, probably not with the Tig though.

I will have plenty to practice with while I'm off from Wednesday so hopefully get the hang of it

 

[Barking Mat]

It's all about maintaining a nice regular speed, and not going too fast.

Adapted to the thickness of metal.

 

[chunkolini]

remember to breathe.
Get your position, do a dry run for the cut, then relax, unlock your shoulders (a big shrug movement)and cruise the cut.~
I find for long cuts move across the body so most of the movement comes from your hips.
And dont wear new shoes

 

[BrokenBiker]

remember to breathe.
Get your position, do a dry run for the cut, then relax, unlock your shoulders (a big shrug movement)and cruise the cut.~
I find for long cuts move across the body so most of the movement comes from your hips.
And dont wear new shoes

I do similar when mig welding something with a long run.

I think it's just practice I need.

Just been asked by a mate to make a door bar set up for the inside of his new garage door as he has only been there 3 weeks and someone has already had a go at prying the door up, so once I've got measurements I'll get a straight edge and use the plasma for the cutting on that job. It will all get mig welded together afterwards so can get away with a non perfect cut

 

[zzr1200]

I sometimes find/think it's easier to watch the "Rooster Tail" below the cut, than watching the torch/cut itself... seems to give a better indicator of the cut speed required..

 

[BrokenBiker]

I sometimes find/think it's easier to watch the "Rooster Tail" below the cut, than watching the torch/cut itself... seems to give a better indicator of the cut speed required..

That's what I was doing, due to my position and jerry rigged cutting bench I couldn't see the arc or the cut line, so was watching to see the sparks fly out the bottom, if they started flying backwards away from the material I slowed down a bit til they started flying downwards again

 

[zzr1200]

And dont wear new shoes

Certainly not canvas based...... .... Just don't ask...........

 

[Turbo]

I leave my 40a at full whack and adjust my cutting speed to suit.

On thin 1mm steel it is like cutting thin card with a stanley knife!

Do not press down hard on the tip, you are just dragging it lightly along the surface.

A test run along the cut with the torch off is a good idea. It will find any bumps or grit that will knock the torch off line.

They are for cutting sheet materials. Don't expect to cut box section or angle neatly. Use a bandsaw or grinder and slitting disc for that.

If using a guide to cut straight lines the finished cut will be approximately 1/8" away from the guide.

Don't use a good square or ruler as a guide. You will slip and cut your guide. I use an offcut of 50x6 flat as a guide with the extended tips.

The standard short tips are not long enough to use a decent depth of guide making it easier to slip off cut.

 

[BrokenBiker]

I leave my 40a at full whack and adjust my cutting speed to suit.

On thin 1mm steel it is like cutting thin card with a stanley knife!

Do not press down hard on the tip, you are just dragging it lightly along the surface.

A test run along the cut with the torch off is a good idea. It will find any bumps or grit that will knock the torch off line.

They are for cutting sheet materials. Don't expect to cut box section or angle neatly. Use a bandsaw or grinder and slitting disc for that.

If using a guide to cut straight lines the finished cut will be approximately 1/8" away from the guide.

Don't use a good square or ruler as a guide. You will slip and cut your guide. I use an offcut of 50x6 flat as a guide with the extended tips.

The standard short tips are not long enough to use a decent depth of guide making it easier to slip off cut.

my torch has the little metal cage on it for tip height, and i have been running that along the bit of angle iron ive been using as a straight edge.

line the tip up on the cut mark, touch the angle to the side of the torch and line it up alongside the cut, run the torch down the guide and adjust so its lined up on the end of the cut, run back up to check cut line then go for it.

will just leave it set hot then.

as for box section, it only needs to be rough cut for storage at the moment, the door bar job will be done with the chop saw just to ensure i get square edges as i need to knock that out in half a day really

 

[Turbo]

To help cut box section get a piece of box that is a nice fit over what you are cutting.
Cut it square with the chop saw first then slide it over the stuff you want to cut and use it to guide the plasma.

You can cut out one side of the guide and that means that you don't have to slide it the whole way down a long length of box.

 

[8ob]

my torch has the little metal cage on it for tip height, and i have been running that along the bit of angle iron ive been using as a straight edge.

line the tip up on the cut mark, touch the angle to the side of the torch and line it up alongside the cut, run the torch down the guide and adjust so its lined up on the end of the cut, run back up to check cut line then go for it.

will just leave it set hot then.

as for box section, it only needs to be rough cut for storage at the moment, the door bar job will be done with the chop saw just to ensure i get square edges as i need to knock that out in half a day really

There can be world of difference in cut quality just by making sure you are running at the correct standoff, I fettled an aftermarket torch on a cebora. Have a read Titting about

Bob