JonnyAlpha
Member
- Messages
- 692
Hi;
Here are the products I am using:
Epoxy Primer (Jotun Jotamastic 87)
Fast Engine Paint (Subframe, suspension parts and wheels)
U-POL Gravitex
Cellulose Top Coat
Wet n Dry available:
120
320
600
800
I do not have any Cellulose Primer but I am only doing the underside at the mo, I will get some for inside the Boot and Passenger Compartment and when I do the main outer body of the Mini.
My confusion is how to prepare the previous coat of paint that has already been laid before laying the next coat, I also understand this also depends on times between coats which is also confusing me.
I need some advice for two types of painting:
1. One guide if able to do the job from start to finish e.g. laying consecutive coats.
2. On guide when different coats need to be laid days apart.
Am I correct that if laying coats of paint consecutively they do not need to be flatted and can go on wet on wet once the carrier thinners has flashed off?
However I guess once the paint has hardened you need to key the previous surface to enable adhesion?
I am happy that bare metal needs to be keyed with something like 120 Grit or rougher? But what about between coats of paint 320 or 600?
I laid two coats of Epoxy last night, I painted several items some bare metal and some that had already had a couple of coats of Epoxy. The bare metal was scuffed with 120 Wet n Dry (Dry) and cleaned with white spirits, previous coats of Epoxy where scuffed with 320 Wet n Dry (Dry).
The problem is I had to stop as it got dark and could not complete the Top Coat of Fast Engine Paint, so the Epoxy will have been on approx 12 Hours and may need some additional preparation. The Jotun TDS states 10 hours = 'Through Dry' with full curing after 7 days (Both at 23 Degrees).
It also states that until its cured you should be able to paint straight on top without any matting required?
Sorry for all the questions but there are so many influencing factors :-)
Here are the products I am using:
Epoxy Primer (Jotun Jotamastic 87)
Fast Engine Paint (Subframe, suspension parts and wheels)
U-POL Gravitex
Cellulose Top Coat
Wet n Dry available:
120
320
600
800
I do not have any Cellulose Primer but I am only doing the underside at the mo, I will get some for inside the Boot and Passenger Compartment and when I do the main outer body of the Mini.
My confusion is how to prepare the previous coat of paint that has already been laid before laying the next coat, I also understand this also depends on times between coats which is also confusing me.
I need some advice for two types of painting:
1. One guide if able to do the job from start to finish e.g. laying consecutive coats.
2. On guide when different coats need to be laid days apart.
Am I correct that if laying coats of paint consecutively they do not need to be flatted and can go on wet on wet once the carrier thinners has flashed off?
However I guess once the paint has hardened you need to key the previous surface to enable adhesion?
I am happy that bare metal needs to be keyed with something like 120 Grit or rougher? But what about between coats of paint 320 or 600?
I laid two coats of Epoxy last night, I painted several items some bare metal and some that had already had a couple of coats of Epoxy. The bare metal was scuffed with 120 Wet n Dry (Dry) and cleaned with white spirits, previous coats of Epoxy where scuffed with 320 Wet n Dry (Dry).
The problem is I had to stop as it got dark and could not complete the Top Coat of Fast Engine Paint, so the Epoxy will have been on approx 12 Hours and may need some additional preparation. The Jotun TDS states 10 hours = 'Through Dry' with full curing after 7 days (Both at 23 Degrees).
It also states that until its cured you should be able to paint straight on top without any matting required?
Sorry for all the questions but there are so many influencing factors :-)