Painting Chassis of 6x6 Land Rover Defender in Africa

  1. Wheely

    Wheely Member

    Messages:
    26
    Location:
    Accra- Ghana
    Hi All,

    As you might have read in another thread I am preparing my 6x6 Land Rover Defender for an overland trip across Africa. I am in Ghana at the moment.

    The chassis is in great conditions - I want to paint it as i will be staying on the coast for long.

    I have found the Jotun products here so will be applying jotamastic-87-aluminium (https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/primers/jotamastic-range/jotamastic-87-aluminium)

    The bodyshell is still mounted - the truck will be raised from the ground and the Jotamastic applied in situ

    Few questions:

    -how shall i prep the surface of the chassis? would a thorough wash with a strong water jet be sufficient or shall i also wire-brush?
    -besides the chassis also the external lower part of the bodywork will be painted (the external part of the floor) + the axles - any advice on how to best do that?
    -it will be applied with airless gun - anything that I should cover to avoid it painting (e.g. calipers, fuel hoses, ..)
    -the local vendor told me that it can be atomised within the cavities (like you'd do with Dinistrol) - what are your thoughts on that?
    -Would applying a top-coat have any impact on the resistance of it? I don't mind the cosmetic look

    Thanks very much,

    Simone
     
  2. Dcal Member

    Messages:
    1,317
    Location:
    Antrim Northern Ireland
    Hi Simone, I would just do what Jotun recommend which is to remove all dirt, grease and the like, then provide a key by abrading with sand paper. It is best to stripe coat all edges, corners, bolts and the like before applying spray coats to the whole underside. A good tip is to use two different shades or tint the alternative coats to make sure you have full coverage on all coats.
    Any epoxy coating will chalk with sunlight (especially where you are) but this will not effect the performance of the coating but you could apply a top coat (PU) if you want. The thin top coat won't really add much to the performance of the overall system and you would be better spending your money on more Jotun 87.
    I wouldn't put a paint (of any sort) in the chassis rails unless you can clean and abrade them beforehand. There are better ways of protecting these areas (cavity waxes) like you suggest and they have the advantage of being self healing and can be topped up if need be. Putting paint on top of existing, factory applied, wax will be pointless.
     
    Wendelspanswick likes this.
  3. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,969
    Location:
    london
    Agree with Dcal...paint inside the cavities sounds like a bad idea...I'd go with chassis wax maybe or something along those lines. I usually wire brush before application...I use a brush in the end of a drill to give the surface a key.
     
  4. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,675
    uk
    What sort of airless gun are you using? There is a big difference between the cheap hand held sprayers and commercial high pressure systems. If it is a cheap handheld then you would prob be better off using a brush - better for slapping the paint on thick!
     
  5. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,969
    Location:
    london
    If you end up brushing it on you'll get a better finish if you use a foam roller to get a nice consistent finish. Epoxy tends to be very thick and will leave bristle marks which I'm not a fan of.
     
  6. fizzy Forum Supporter

    Messages:
    4,675
    uk
    Does that matter on a chassis? Film thickness is what really counts and I remember reading a warning that a roller might not give you the thickness you need.
     
  7. Pigeon_Droppings2 Member

    Messages:
    1,969
    Location:
    london
    Depends how fussy he is I guess....what I did was roller about 6 coats on there :laughing: just to be safe.
     
    fizzy likes this.
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