pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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Lat one I did I used a 2" brush and a gloss roller
We've painted the porch and had some paint left so we did the Mercedes as well
Lat one I did I used a 2" brush and a gloss roller
That’s the point of the thread. This is supposed to be a high end paint job costing a lot so what would you expect? Would you prefer the metal work sorted and minimal filler, or layered on with loads of other products. I can’t see it lasting and imagine it will chip easily.Whos to say what's right or wrong? Obviously clobbering on great thick slabs of filler is wrong, but otherwise...
Some of said coats may be dust coats if there's been a lot of dents to skim fill? It's a classic car so perhaps a lot of work has went into fixing sub-par body panels that came out of the factory badly?
At the end of the day a great paintshop is known for results, not method...
Epoxy from my own use is quite stable and doesn’t really shrink, the Novol spray filler I believe doesn’t shrink either. I will be painting a car this year and would prefer to just go epoxy and topcoat but if need be will use a layer of Novol spray filler and over coated with epoxy.The differences between conventional methods and modern methods is easy to explain...
The important factor with fillers etc is adhesion to the substrate. Most fillers adhere well to bare steels and other substrates, hence the standard advice to fill first. However, epoxy primer changes that advice because a) epoxy primer's grip is superior to that of filler direct and b) the epoxy seals and waterproofs the bare substrate very quickly against flash rust etc.
So now the recommendation is to epoxy coat as soon as major repairs are complete and it has been abraded. Then fillers as required, followed by more epoxy primer coats to seal the lot in. As for spray fillers over the top, that is a contentious one. I personally don't do it so that I keep the waterproof integrity all the way through the job. I do understand also that 2K primers are easier to sand but frankly, sanding 29107 is hardly difficult. All my sanding is done dry and the only time water is applied is during final polishing.
Professional bodyshops need to ensure that they do a good job which will not bounce, so are understandably reluctant to 'experiment' with a paying job. Sticking to what they know and trust is a perfectly valid approach. in my opinion it just results in a job that is good enough at a reasonable price, rather than one that it as good as it can possibly be.
It may sound silly but I don’t want perfection when I paint my Volvo Amazon. I want nice even panel gaps, level panels to a level that was as good as when the car was new. I don’t want to over restore the car if that makes sense. It needs to last and be durable as the car will be used.
I’ve been following a guys restoration of an imported from America 911Have they been watching those US programmes?
It’s very Merican to “bondo” the whole car prior to any paint
They certainly do, but i have no idea why ?I’ve been following a guys restoration of an imported from America 911
He‘s had a hell of a job un-bondo’ing it.
There’s a lot of dust!
They just love their filler over there
Have they been watching those US programmes?
It’s very Merican to “bondo” the whole car prior to any paint
I know next to nothing about paint, so I made it up as I went along. But I‘d seen lots of TV car shows, so I knew what not to do.
This was done in acrylic, because that was what the paint shop sold. I had a £30 HVLP spray gun, and experimented until it looked okay.
Then the final touch, kiddies glitter mixed into the clear coat, as ‘real’ metalflake was not available in the Philippines.
It did the business, glittered nicely in the brilliant sunshine.
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You might at least have given them both the same colour paint .Kids wanted to paint my old Vitara
Aged 6 and 8, cost paint plus a bag of sweets, did a great job
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Maybe their panel flatness is on par with their chassis development, they’re still using leaf springs on some cars which is horse and cart technology last seen on production cars here in the 80’s ?They certainly do, but i have no idea why ?
Not that i know anything about painting a car
All good if your not interested in cornersMaybe their panel flatness is on par with their chassis development, they’re still using leaf springs on some cars which is horse and cart technology last seen on production cars here in the 80’s ?
I think it was Graham Hill who was asked by a journo ,just before the start of a race,"what was the significance of a particular straight on that circuit? He replied " it joins one corner to the next". Nuff said.All good if your not interested in corners
Historic sports cars is always good at Silverstone. British pocket rockets against yank tanks
Yanks make the straights good, we make the corners. It’s where all the fun happens ......l
They had both colours one did the low down stuff the oldest did the higher up bit.You might at least have given them both the same colour paint .
We've painted the Porsche and had some paint left so we did the Mercedes as well