Paint system - full respray

[joesbox]

Sorry for the late reply...

I see that the epoxy primer is a 2 component paint. Does this mean it contains isocyanates? Does the epoxy primer have decent adhesion to bare metal too? No etch primer required?

With the water based colour did you just leave it to air dry? I have sprayed a motorbike faring with cellulose primer, water based colour and iso-free 2K clear (before I realised air-fed equipment was required) and I got pretty decent results but it has chipped fairly easily - I wasn't sure if that was down to poor preparation or because the water based colour wasn't dried in a low-bake oven?

How do you find the U-POL 1K clear for gloss retention? Did you manage to get a nice flat finish with it? I'm 99% sure this is what I'll end up using, I don't mind flatting and polishing it if necessary.

Sorry for the million questions!! I just want to make sure I get this right first time round. I had a pretty poor experience with cellulose base and clear coat years ago, I don't want to repeat that this time. Especially with the attention to detail in preparation I'm giving it.

Thanks

 

[richie00boy]

No iso.

Adheres better than etch.

Was your chipping down to metal, primer or basecoat?

U-pol 1k clear, a flat will help with the inevitable orange peel then it will obviously need a buff. It won't flow out like a good 2k clear because it dries so quick. But after buffing it will have very good gloss. If you then keep it waxed it's not bad.

If you were supplied CELLULOSE basecoat and clear, maybe it was just a cheap package which is why you had a bad result. Cellulose is not meant to be lacquered. Then again, the prep and application is the bigger factor in my opinion.

 

[joesbox]

Chipping was down to the primer. I was pretty thorough with prep as well.

Can anyone recommend an epoxy primer supplier? Looks a bit scarce here in the UK?

 

[MG David]

The water based colour base coat I have used is dry within an hour. Base coat should not go on too thick. Your choice of primer colour can help to keep the coat thickness down. Many people shy away from water based for home/ammeter use but I have found it ok. The first time I used it they only had the colour I wanted in it so I was forced to use it.

I get both it and my epoxy primer from www.paint4u.com The high build and Upol 1k clear I normally buy locally.

Paint4u also do a solvent based base coat. It is cheaper and from the data sheet I think it is just mat cellulose.

 

[richie00boy]

I have used HB Body epoxy primer from Refinish Systems, but the thinners is not listed on the website you need to email or call them. Lechler is very similar, available from Paints4u.

There is also Jotun Penguard HB on ebay.

 

[joesbox]

Anyone had any experience with House of Kolor? Their USC01 show clear MSDS doesn't say anything about requiring an air fed respirator?


http://www.houseofkolor.com/products/urethane.jsp

http://www.houseofkolor.com/hok/msdsRequest.html?op=msdsByKeyword&item=USC01&keyword=AUTO

 

[Daz1968]

The clear coat will be ok it's the activator in this case ku152 which contains the isocyanate so it's no different to other 2k paint

 

[aaran]

where abouts are you joesbox?

 

[joesbox]

Rutland area, Aaran. Went for solvent basecoat from Jawel in the end and UPOL 1K clear. Only done the chassis so far but ran in to a couple of issues (different story on another thread!).