Smallfry
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Yes. I agree with Gaz. This is a very good idea and would save an awful lot of work (for the time being)
- Thread starter brewdexta
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brewdexta
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I passed on your words of wisdom about who should be in which part of the building. My wife asks if you like sex and travel, or something similar!
She's happy where she is, and she will use the downstairs far more than the occasional artist mate will and sewing needs good light too. Besides, if they want to set up an easel in the conservatory now and again, the wife won't mind.
I've requested a quote for structural oak beam, 300mm x 100mm and 3m long, Basically an air dried straight bit of oak with few knots and shakes.
But I'm looking at side plates as an option (not flitch plates or recessed rebar and epoxy). I have access to some decent plate. I won't need to find 6 more acrows ( I have 2 already) and get some scaffie planks or move the downstairs sewing table (its a big 'un). A friend of mine is a retired structural engineer if I need calcs, however a couple of 6 mm plates either side will kill it. I've had a poke about either end of the existing beam and the damage is localised but I would retreat the timber and take the plates all way along, and possibly underneath. Headroom is 6' 4" so adequate.
I'm still mulling it over.
I'll have to drag this lot out or drill it to create some ventilation to the roof before I board it. I'll look at the ends of the rafter whilst at it, If retirement wasn't looming and funds not at a premium, I would definitely have the roof off and replace all the timbers, replace the felt, and generally do a proper job, but I have other priorities for cash and its not worth the expense if I can do a reasonable, safe waterproof job. Having said that, I do have a builder mate coming around on Wednesday for a chat about a possible joint venture, I'll see what he says.
She's happy where she is, and she will use the downstairs far more than the occasional artist mate will and sewing needs good light too. Besides, if they want to set up an easel in the conservatory now and again, the wife won't mind.
I've requested a quote for structural oak beam, 300mm x 100mm and 3m long, Basically an air dried straight bit of oak with few knots and shakes.
But I'm looking at side plates as an option (not flitch plates or recessed rebar and epoxy). I have access to some decent plate. I won't need to find 6 more acrows ( I have 2 already) and get some scaffie planks or move the downstairs sewing table (its a big 'un). A friend of mine is a retired structural engineer if I need calcs, however a couple of 6 mm plates either side will kill it. I've had a poke about either end of the existing beam and the damage is localised but I would retreat the timber and take the plates all way along, and possibly underneath. Headroom is 6' 4" so adequate.
I'm still mulling it over.
I'll have to drag this lot out or drill it to create some ventilation to the roof before I board it. I'll look at the ends of the rafter whilst at it, If retirement wasn't looming and funds not at a premium, I would definitely have the roof off and replace all the timbers, replace the felt, and generally do a proper job, but I have other priorities for cash and its not worth the expense if I can do a reasonable, safe waterproof job. Having said that, I do have a builder mate coming around on Wednesday for a chat about a possible joint venture, I'll see what he says.
gaz1
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ive edited it to what your mrs saidI passed on your words of wisdom about who should be in which part of the building. My wife asks if you like sex and travel, or
She's happy where she is, and she will use the downstairs far more than the occasional artist mate will and sewing needs good light too. Besides, if they want to set up an easel in the conservatory now and again, the wife won't mind.
gaz1
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that beam is difficult to install internally
you will need 4 acrows 2 below the floor and 2 above the floor to support the beams
to install it get a guide of the angles of slope and precut your beam one side only the second side is only done when you have the length then you cut the slope of the roof on that side
the beam is installed by taking a foot of wall out so you can slide it in at an off angle and then lift into place you can use wood 3x2s just to hold the beam up in place while your rebuilding the wall back up and fit a pad stone in again
just becareful lifting that beam up with 3x2 can lift that beam off the acrow when its a tight fit
scaffold board and acrow under the beams then to the next floor also doing the same
you will need 4 acrows 2 below the floor and 2 above the floor to support the beams
to install it get a guide of the angles of slope and precut your beam one side only the second side is only done when you have the length then you cut the slope of the roof on that side
the beam is installed by taking a foot of wall out so you can slide it in at an off angle and then lift into place you can use wood 3x2s just to hold the beam up in place while your rebuilding the wall back up and fit a pad stone in again
just becareful lifting that beam up with 3x2 can lift that beam off the acrow when its a tight fit
scaffold board and acrow under the beams then to the next floor also doing the same
brewdexta
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If I don't plate it, I was going to use 4 acrows up and 4 down. I would hold the purlins that the beam supports in two places each, about 2 foot away from the beam either side so I had a bit more room to work on it. I would also support it underneath the floor in similar places, Both would be using scaffy boards to spread the load.
But, looking at it, plating may be the sensible way to go. I'll have a chat with my builder mate on Wednesday.
But, looking at it, plating may be the sensible way to go. I'll have a chat with my builder mate on Wednesday.
slim_boy_fat
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gaz1
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it all depends on where your floor beams are to the above beams spreading the load
as you can see this beam has had the same done to fit it one side gets made wider whilst the other side needs more for the swing in so it has a good 3-4" inside of each wall with pad stones fitted below it
it just helps to swing the beam into place
as you can see this beam has had the same done to fit it one side gets made wider whilst the other side needs more for the swing in so it has a good 3-4" inside of each wall with pad stones fitted below it
it just helps to swing the beam into place
Smallfry
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Thats what I was thinking, for such a great idea !(as long as there wasn't an invitation there)
Anyway, it would be a shame to plate an oak beam all the way along, as it will spoil the character. I guess you could "pre rust" the plates to make it look better and more authentic. I like things to look proper old.
If it were mine, I would be looking at propping the purlins, and making a hole in the outer wall to pass the beam through, as I never take the easy option !
I would guess the beam also acts as a collar ?
gaz1
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its the old style eaves where the gutter fastens on a ft below the wall
the internal wall is even higher
so internal work is a must
it was probably a 4" x 14-16" beam at one time the replacement had to be added to it as wasnt enough to reach the higher beam
brewdexta
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I had a good prod about and cleaned bits of the beams to remove the whitewash. The purlins appear to be pitch pine, probably why there's no worm in them. The beam with worm is just standard pine or fir. No new activity so I'll give it all a good clean. The newer beam below is looking pretty solid so far. It's 3" thick.
If it looks like it's just the top, presumably earlier, small beam that is compromised, then I may cut out the dodgy part and replace it with new timber. I'll then treat the wood again then add some relatively lightweight plating, maybe channel top and bottom with some triangulated ties between them.
Ideally I want to get the roof sorted before end of term as my daughters want to help board it out and make the furniture and generally finish it off during the summer holidays. Part if the brief is that it will still be where we incubate eggs and raise chicks.
I'm under orders to get rid of the spiders first. It looks like a spider holiday camp
If it looks like it's just the top, presumably earlier, small beam that is compromised, then I may cut out the dodgy part and replace it with new timber. I'll then treat the wood again then add some relatively lightweight plating, maybe channel top and bottom with some triangulated ties between them.
Ideally I want to get the roof sorted before end of term as my daughters want to help board it out and make the furniture and generally finish it off during the summer holidays. Part if the brief is that it will still be where we incubate eggs and raise chicks.
I'm under orders to get rid of the spiders first. It looks like a spider holiday camp
