I think his concern was the main transformer = the big heavy AND expensive oneIt's unlikely you've fried the transformer it will be rated to put sufficient current in the coils of the relay. It should still output 12v if OK. It will be cheap enough to replace any how.
Yes.. I was.! I hope it's ok. But would have thought that if it was toast I would have seen, smelt or felt (heat) from it to indicate it's destruction! !I think his concern was the main transformer = the big heavy AND expensive one
Yes. That is the cut out. I've tested that it's a closed curcit which I guess is right. ??I think if you look at the very 1st pic (post 1) at the bottom of the transformer there look to be two wires going into a tube inserted in the bulk of the windings. This may be the cutout ??
Usually yes. If it pulled out of the tube then you could put meter on it set to ohms and heat with cigg lighter and you would see it go open circuit, cool and then close the circuit after a minuet or two..... But only if you are bored !Yes. That is the cut out. I've tested that it's a closed curcit which I guess is right. ??
Right I tried the above. And unplugging "d L" the fan did indeed run. So tried unplugging "e"and"f" and both the relays worked. (Covers of so I can see them working. ) when I plugged them in again and tried to operate it again.. it all buzzed again like before with a flipping great big blue spark out the top relay! And agsin it seems to he drawing massive amount of power just before it blows the 13amp fuse again..Up date (correction ) the box drawn to represent the transformer on the pcb should have been bigger to include the Live pin going into the tranny!
WITH MACHINE UNPLUGED If you look at new pics then try disconnecting "d L", make it safe (bit of insulating tape over it) now when powered on the only thing that should operate is the fan. Then UNPLUG MACHINE, reconnect "d L".
Now pull "e" and "f" off and make safe (tape) Power on and if it still "buzzes" Then there is most likely a fault on pcb. If it does not "buzz" then Unplug machine and reconnect "e" and "f".
Post back with results please
Right mike. Ones again thanks for all your help. I do feel like I'm getting there, just very slowly. !You need to reconnect the main transformer AND disconnect the diodes to rule them out!
If the wire feed gets it's power from the main transformer (not unusual for that) then by disconnecting the feed to the main transformer you will loose power to the wire feed motor.
I have not seen a Hi / Low switch on a wire feed before so trying to figure how that works from what I can see in the pics but can't tell where the yellow on that switch goes as there are two yellow wires but can only see three points where a yellow terminates (not four)
I can see that "i" on the pcb goes to the center of the switch and the white goes to one of the diodes.
Does "g" on pcb (thick red) go to the feed motor also does "h" thick black (?) go to feed motor ???
Ok I'll forget that idea then! I'll test the diodes next then. And report back..The pcb transformer does not supply power for the motor it comes from a winding on the main transformer but this voltage IS controlled by the pcb. The control on the pcb is from the 12 volts generated by the pcb transformer. The 12 volts also supplies the voltage for the relay coils and the power on LED. It won't be simple to isolate just a part of the transformer due to the strange way it is wired/wound to be able to use the three switches to give the 8 power settings.
IF you decide to pull ANY of the wires from the power select switches then MAKE SURE YOU LABEL THEM !!!! I would suggest labeling as switch A, B and C then top wire as 1, middle as 2 and bottom as 3
So
A1 B1 C1
A2 B2 C2
A3 B3 C3
But again I would leave this as a last resort.