Oil based rust inhibitors for cavities, any recommendations?

[GolferGraeme]

I'm half way through welding up a mk2 Golf and want to get some protection in the cavities where I've been welding (update on build thread coming soon, honest).

Plan is to flood them with the oil to get in all the nooks and crannies and then overcoat with wax (Dynax-S50 already purchased) to keep everything in place.

Current thinking is either Owatrol or ACF-50 but would welcome further advise/suggestions, thanks in advance.

 

[bricol]

Why would you reduce the performance of the Dynax stuff by using oil first? Just use your chosen cavity wax.

I chose Noxudol 700 based on Classic Cars long term testing, and shoving a camera down the sills of my car, in daily use again, 7 years after repairs, shows no signs of deterioration.

 

[GRW]

I've just started using Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 after some reviews off here.
In the 750ml aerosols with 600mm spray extensions they are easy to use, & have more coverage than I expected.

 

[james butler]

I've just started using Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 after some reviews off here.
In the 750ml aerosols with 600mm spray extensions they are easy to use, & have more coverage than I expected.

i second the dynax stuff its really good stuff especially the application lance made for sills and cavities

 

[tom2207]

I swear by ACF50 ,,,, as many know .
nuf said

 

[steveo3002]

im starting to like the acf50 for internal bits , not so much where it see's alot of weather , it smells pleasant and would wipe off if you ever need to work on that area again

if you do get some watch out , amazon seller is selling stale product with the date scratched off

 

[Morris]

As said, forget the oil, use Dynax. Good stuff.

 

[GolferGraeme]

Idea for using both was I wasn't sure the Dynax would be sufficiently viscous to find it's way into all the nooks and crannies, and when you're not sure what the best approach is, do them both!

Have to say the factory wax did a great job though, anywhere it was still intact the panels were like new. So maybe I'll just stick with the Dynax, cheers everyone

 

[Morris]

Dynax is pretty viscous. It will find it's way up your sleeves if you are under a car. Ask me how I know.

 

[GolferGraeme]

I've just started using Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 after some reviews off here.
In the 750ml aerosols with 600mm spray extensions they are easy to use, & have more coverage than I expected.

Same here, I've no compressed air and the Dynax comes with it's own lances so sounds fairly idiot proof (a major requirement on my projects).

 

[GolferGraeme]

Dynax is pretty viscous. It will find it's way up your sleeves if you are under a car. Ask me how I know.

Good to know! The car is on a spit so I'm at an advantage there, I could even roll it a few times after application, help it get good coverage.

 

[Misterg]

I wasn't sure the Dynax would be sufficiently viscous to find it's way into all the nooks and crannies

The stuff (S50) in the aerosol starts out really thin (like white spirit) and finds its way *everywhere*. It's really good at wicking into seams, etc. It then thickens up into a wax. Good stuff IMHO.

 

[GRW]

Same here, I've no compressed air and the Dynax comes with it's own lances so sounds fairly idiot proof (a major requirement on my projects).

I have compressed air, but decided the aerosols would be a lot easier to wrangle with when underneath the car on the driveway.
Also unless you had just the right setup and dispensing gun - using Air might mean a wasteful (or inadequate) delivery of the Dynax.
(The airline is useful for blowing out the aerosol tubes etc after use though to keep them from clogging up).

 

[arther dailey]

It would be interesting to see how inner sill sections/box chassis sections look say 5 or more years down the road after being treated with dynax etc etc then used /ignored/abused in the real world , anyone have any experince , was the surface rust halted? etc . thanks in anticipation of some interesting replies/pics.

 

[Cobbler]

It would be interesting to see how inner sill sections/box chassis sections look say 5 or more years down the road after being treated with dynax etc etc then used /ignored/abused in the real world , anyone have any experince , was the surface rust halted? etc . thanks in anticipation of some interesting replies/pics.

Soon after I bought our Transit camper new in 2006, I used Dynax S50 in all the sills & up inside the rear of the front arches where they badly rot. When I take it for test, the guy always says “this should be rusty, but not a spot of serious rot” a friend has the identical camper, but 3 years newer & he has had to replace both the inner & outer front arches, so yes it works well. I’m just so glad I treated it, as the price today, we can’t justify replacement.

 

[bricol]

Good to know! The car is on a spit so I'm at an advantage there, I could even roll it a few times after application, help it get good coverage.

That's exactly what I did - tipped it at various angle, sprayed in inside, left it a day or two, rolled it around, did it again . . repeat.

 

[bricol]

It would be interesting to see how inner sill sections/box chassis sections look say 5 or more years down the road after being treated with dynax etc etc then used /ignored/abused in the real world , anyone have any experince , was the surface rust halted? etc . thanks in anticipation of some interesting replies/pics.

As per my earlier reply - 7 yrs of daily use, mostly stood outside, a camera inside the sills etc of mine, and no visible corrosion. Same inside the doors, rear cross member, inner arches etc.

You are supposed to reapply aftermarket stuff every few years - it's not as good as the factory applied stuff.

Edited to add - I regualrly sprayed waxoyl with my pressurised gun, which no-one seems to like much these days, inside my Pug 106, stood outside for, used all weathers, used for off-road trialling, although not the last mayube 7 yrs or so. I was giving it a good looking over the other day - still seems to be sound - no corrosion to sills, underbody cavities, braces or inner wings.

 

[bricol]

Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WilTec-Pressure-1100ml-4-6bar-Cavity/dp/B07NGP1BXL/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

Well worth 50 quid. Allows you to spray waxes, oil, etc, where you want. Would not be without mine, and I paid more like 80, but maybe 15-20 years ago. Used many times.

Cold days, I warm the wax by tanking the pot in hot water, warm the car/garage, so it doens't immediately thicken and stick on application, but will flow into the crevices between panels.

 

[arther dailey]

Soon after I bought our Transit camper new in 2006, I used Dynax S50 in all the sills & up inside the rear of the front arches where they badly rot. When I take it for test, the guy always says “this should be rusty, but not a spot of serious rot” a friend has the identical camper, but 3 years newer & he has had to replace both the inner & outer front arches, so yes it works well. I’m just so glad I treated it, as the price today, we can’t justify replacement.

interesting so the dynax is rust preventative , which by all acounts including yours is top notch , but what about using in box sections of a older vehicle which may have surface rust , which rust neutraliser is best to use first , mind this is in section where you can do no prep ,as in rubbing down etc. thanks in advance

 

[GolferGraeme]

Get one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/WilTec-Pressure-1100ml-4-6bar-Cavity/dp/B07NGP1BXL/ref=ast_sto_dp_puis

I've already bought a couple of aerosols as I don't have compressed air, more than enough to cover the areas I've welded.

That said I'll probably be moving it to a place that does for spraying at some point, could throw a good few litres into the cavities as a final measure with a gun like that.