Non iso diy metallic options.

[Wozzaaah]

What colour-matched metallic paint systems are diy compatible these days? I have no air-fed PPE equipment and don’t wish to purchase any, nor do I have a heated spray booth. Any potential work I do would be in an unheated garage or outside on a warm day in a makeshift spray tent.
The last time I painted anything the options were simply cellulose or acrylic.

 

[brightspark]

just going to spray my bumprer with acrylic textured bumper paint and do a bit of touching up on body with acrylic ,if there was enough to do i would do it with 2k

 

[ajlelectronics]

What colour-matched metallic paint systems are diy compatible these days? I have no air-fed PPE equipment and don’t wish to purchase any, nor do I have a heated spray booth. Any potential work I do would be in an unheated garage or outside on a warm day in a makeshift spray tent.
The last time I painted anything the options were simply cellulose or acrylic.

You can spray base coat in solvent or water base as you choose. Solvent is easiest. Then it is your choice of lacquer, either a quality 1K or (I have no experience of it) some here suggest the Nisocoat. All those products are non isocyanate.

 

[Wozzaaah]

You can spray base coat in solvent or water base as you choose. Solvent is easiest. Then it is your choice of lacquer, either a quality 1K or (I have no experience of it) some here suggest the Nisocoat. All those products are non isocyanate.

That sounds like a good plan. Thank you.
I used to use Avon Auto Colours in Westbury for all my cellulose stuff and always found them really helpful. But I bet it’s over 20 years since I painted anything, so I wouldn’t even know where to start now regarding products.

 

[ajlelectronics]

That sounds like a good plan. Thank you.
I used to use Avon Auto Colours in Westbury for all my cellulose stuff and always found them really helpful. But I bet it’s over 20 years since I painted anything, so I wouldn’t even know where to start now regarding products.

Go and have a word with them then, they will be helpful I am sure. If you want accurate colour, then they will sell you a quality, repeatable brand. If you want a blowover in a similar colour, then the bundles from Jawel Paints are good value. They do a non iso hardener for 2k but my experience of it was not good. Others may vary.

Is it a big job? A local bodyshop might be reasonable value but they will want to do the preparation too.

 

[Wozzaaah]

Go and have a word with them then, they will be helpful I am sure. If you want accurate colour, then they will sell you a quality, repeatable brand. If you want a blowover in a similar colour, then the bundles from Jawel Paints are good value. They do a non iso hardener for 2k but my experience of it was not good. Others may vary.

Is it a big job? A local bodyshop might be reasonable value but they will want to do the preparation too.

This will be diy only. Ideally not a full blowover but that’s not out of the question. It’s been a while but I’m still confident enough to tackle it so I’m not looking to pay anyone else. It’s more that the paint systems have changed a lot since my last dabble and I’m not sure what would be the most suitable products.

 

[ajlelectronics]

This will be diy only. Ideally not a full blowover but that’s not out of the question. It’s been a while but I’m still confident enough to tackle it so I’m not looking to pay anyone else. It’s more that the paint systems have changed a lot since my last dabble and I’m not sure what would be the most suitable products.

Well in your shoes I would go for a quality solvent basecoat and give the Nisocoat a try. Basecoat wise, metallics are more tricky to spray as you can end up with "Tiger stripes" if you are not careful. Best advice is to use basecoat thinner, not the universal that they will try to sell you and buy a gallon of gunwash (standard thinner) for cleaning up etc.

Lighter coats are always best, a very light 'grip' coat initially and then slightly heavier coats. You are not looking to colour the substrate in one go, build it over a number of coats. A dry spray will be safer than a wet one and being lacquered it will make no difference to the finish. Last colour coat (My technique) is to do a "Fairy coat". That is standing away from the work and spraying light coats in a criss cross action. The paint should be almost dry as it hits the panel and this helps the metallic particles to stand up and be noticed. Once it has flashed, on with the lacquer; don't leave it more than an hour or two.

 

[ajlelectronics]

When planning how to spray, do all the important little places first; door shuts, panel edges, recesses etc and then the panels from one end to the other. Don't start or stop the gun until you are off the panel. Aim for about 50% overlap on the previous pass and keep a regular distance from the work with the gun parallel to it. (Well at right angles to it, but you know what I meant!).