Nissan almera brake pipes

[doubleboost]

I have joined brake pipes male to female hundreds of times
Normally a op 1 on the steel and op 2 on the copper
Most manufacturers have joins this way from new
One thing that is not allowed is compression fittings

 

[AndyStobbs]

I think it's because there's not enough thread engagement.

I see,

I have joined brake pipes male to female hundreds of times
Normally a op 1 on the steel and op 2 on the copper
Most manufacturers have joins this way from new
One thing that is not allowed is compression fittings

Yup, nothing worse than having to make two ops on the steel with the fluid dripping out, all over the tool, your arm and the floor.

 

[premmington]

I have joined brake pipes male to female hundreds of times
Normally a op 1 on the steel and op 2 on the copper
Most manufacturers have joins this way from new
One thing that is not allowed is compression fittings

I too do male to female joins.

Trick is to put the female over the steel pipe and make the "trumpet flare" in the steel pipe.

Then put the male over the copper pipe and put the bubble flare on the copper pipe.

This was the soft copper finds it way to seal inside the hard steel pipe (if you can understand what I am trying to poorly describe).

Plus if you hold the brake pedal down with wood the fluid does not run.

I am a tester, male to female joints don't fail MOT testing, leaky pipes and unsupported pipes do fail!

 

[Mikey D]

That's good advice premington , so cut the pipe and wedge the brake pedal to the floor you don't loose so much fluid ? I though if u put cling film under the filler cap that helped stop fluid loss ?
Is it easy enough to flare the harder steel pipe ? As opposed to the softer copper tube ?
Cheers Mike

 

[Ton-up]

All the comments above refer to 'copper pipe'. Although this will work ok, cupro nickel, or Kunifer to use a brand name,
is far superior and doesn't cost that much more

 

[richie00boy]

Is it easy enough to flare the harder steel pipe ? As opposed to the softer copper tube ?
Cheers Mike

No, it's very difficult. If you are using a Machine Mart type tool you are unlikely to be able to produce a decent flare on steel. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned that yet.

 

[the snooper]

No, it's very difficult. If you are using a Machine Mart type tool you are unlikely to be able to produce a decent flare on steel. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned that yet.

Not hard if you put the female on the steel and male on copper

 

[paceman1]

double flare is better on the copper pipe for sealing

 

[Mikey D]

It's the serenco power hand tool I've ordered , it says it's good for steel too ,I only need it to do two flares on the steel so hopefully all will be ok ,I'll put the females on the steel with the single flare as advised by doubleboost / premington
Cheers guys

 

[octo0072000]

It's the serenco power hand tool I've ordered , it says it's good for steel too ,I only need it to do two flares on the steel so hopefully all will be ok ,I'll put the females on the steel with the single flare as advised by doubleboost / premington
Cheers guys

video on how to use the tool you bought it's one of the better one's

 

[doubleboost]

video on how to use the tool you bought it's one of the better one's

That is the tool I use for "on the job flearing"
As has been mentioned if the pedal is depressed NO fluid will leak from the pipe as the ports in the master cylinder are blocked off

 

[octo0072000]

what are you using for cutting the pipe a small mini pipe cutter works best
easy to use under the car as well this type

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neilsen-M...075557?hash=item1e875d9325:g:zHQAAOSwHnFV3FUH

 

[premmington]

Sykes Pickavent Flaremaster 2, is the tool of choice to trumpet flare steel pipes in situ. Costs about £100

If you want to "future proof" the purchase, buy the set with 6mm adapters (£120 ish), more and more new cars have 6mm metal and stainless pipes!

 

[AndyStobbs]

Sykes Pickavent Flaremaster 2, is the tool of choice to trumpet flare steel pipes in situ. Costs about £100

If you want to "future proof" the purchase, buy the set with 6mm adapters (£120 ish), more and more new cars have 6mm metal and stainless pipes!

Does that tool cope well in situ with steel or can it be a struggle?
I keep looking at them every time I have a bad time suspending my vice mounted SP tool underneath a car.
Also are the dies the same as the vice mounted (270 series I think) as I have the full set up to 12mm for that?

 

[V6BOY]

That powerhand flare tool is absolutely fantastic, done complete front pipes of an Astra (couldn't be bothered cutting the bad bits out) made the pipes up and flared them on the car.

 

[AndyStobbs]

That powerhand flare tool is absolutely fantastic, done complete front pipes of an Astra (couldn't be bothered cutting the bad bits out) made the pipes up and flared them on the car.

But that'll be in Copper or cupro nickel, so soft compared to steel.

 

[V6BOY]

Yea bud was in copper very soft indeed.

 

[Mikey D]

To cut the pipe I have got a mini pipe cutter but I was gonna use a junior hack saw , certainly on the existing steel pipe

 

[Turbo]

From experience it's very difficult to produce a decent flare on a steel brake pipe using a hand held flaring tool, especially doing a double flare. By time you mess around trying to make a decent joint you would have the full line made up in kunifer with less joints and a lot neater. The kunifer pipe is cheap so it's not too expensive to run new lines from the rear hub to the master cylinder or abs unit. I don't bother joining onto steel pipe any more, too much hassle.

You might find when you start cutting back the steel pipe that it's corroded everywhere under the plastic coating so it will need replaced anyway.

BTW - use a pipe cutter & not a hacksaw to cut the pipe, it leaves a square edge for the flaring tool. You might have to deburr the hole in the copper pipe to allow the flaring tool to fit inside the pipe. I use a small drill bit.

 

[Justme]

Cheap tools wont flare the steel pipes.