Newbie now with TIG.

[brockenhammer]

Hi Richard,
I also use fast pulse settings if the machine offers this option.
It seems to stabilize the arc at low amps and edges on workpieces don´t melt away.
The pic below was a testpiece

at some 0.6mm Crmo with ca.1000hz (I guess it just from the noise I heared).

 

[Richard.]

Hi Richard,
I also use fast pulse settings if the machine offers this option.
It seems to stabilize the arc at low amps and edges on workpieces don´t melt away.
The pic below was a testpieceView attachment 95782 at some 0.6mm Crmo with ca.1000hz (I guess it just from the noise I heared).

It's a neat joint mate. Your very good at what you do.
Watch those craters mate. They'll spoil your lovely work.

 

[brockenhammer]

Hi Richard,
thanks. You´re right, craters should not be. That black spot may be dirt. On those test pieces (to check different settings) I don´t really clean the tubes and sometimes there is some kind of glashard residue at the end of the weld.
On regular pieces I use Aceton before welding.

 

[Brad93]

Can lead to varying penetration depths Brad.
You'd be better off maintaining a constant current level and dabbing.

Wouldn't use it on a critical part, but for these exhausts, where people are more concerned about what it looks like that if it is functional it works out nicely. When you use constant current right on the edge you have to get a bloody good move on to get it to look good. Without a turntable it just doesnt come out neat enough.

 

[Richard.]

Wouldn't use it on a critical part, but for these exhausts, where people are more concerned about what it looks like that if it is functional it works out nicely. When you use constant current right on the edge you have to get a bloody good move on to get it to look good. Without a turntable it just doesnt come out neat enough.

Everyone does it differently. There is no rule on things like this. I've used pulse settings on exhaust tubing and prefer the high hz to tighten up the arc and pick up travel rate.

 

[DAPPH]

Paintbrush and a vacuum nearby to "catch" the dust... Should be fine...

Car tyre inflated to 40 psi & a way of discharging it out the valve , such as a scrapped foot pump connector or a very quick undo of the valve core and slip a tube with the end of something like a Biro pen body tip inserted in the end to give a concentrated jet of air . Yes use the vacuum to collect the muck as you disturb it .

Using a paint brush is to my way of thinking inadvisable on a welder with circuit boards . Much of the dust will have a conductive content in it , however there are electronic board cleaning aerosols that have a spirit based cleaner in them .. they are sprays that remove , break down the grease in the dust and this makes it a lot easier to blow and vac out the residues .


Tip out of the hand book of a welder I once had :-

Have your welder machine at least one metre away from the arc , never have it on the ground , always fully cover the machine in a light cloth when you are grinding close by , to stop the machine pulling in particles of metal in via the cooling fan intake & magnetic attraction effect.

 

[Richard.]

Car tyre inflated to 40 psi & a way of discharging it out the valve , such as a scrapped foot pump connector or a very quick undo of the valve core and slip a tube with the end of something like a Biro pen body tip inserted in the end to give a concentrated jet of air . Yes use the vacuum to collect the muck as you disturb it .

Using a paint brush is to my way of thinking inadvisable on a welder with circuit boards . Much of the dust will have a conductive content in it , however there are electronic board cleaning aerosols that have a spirit based cleaner in them .. they are sprays that remove , break down the grease in the dust and this makes it a lot easier to blow and vac out the residues .


Tip out of the hand book of a welder I once had :-

Have your welder machine at least one metre away from the arc , never have it on the ground , always fully cover the machine in a light cloth when you are grinding close by , to stop the machine pulling in particles of metal in via the cooling fan intake & magnetic attraction effect.

Always allow fans to run on for a bit of time before shutting down and if it's fan on demand allow them to finish running properly and stop before turning off. If using a water cooler also give it some time to run afterwards and cool your torch properly before turning off.

 

[dazza]

I now have a procon pump, torch and a collection of tig rods in my office in london. Also found a Gessmann pedal made for merkle which should work perfectly with a few modifications thanks to Jim Davey for helping with this.

 

[dazza]

My new reg arrived today, finally thought i could attach a flow meter.

Tried to remove the 1/4bps fitting but it has some green gunk on it and is very tight.

I suppose i will have to get another adaptor but then to attach the flow meter the clocks will be facing the ceiling .

I've seen a similar messer reg with a flowmeter attached where the tap is. Is there any adaptor for this?

 

[Richard.]

Surely you shouldn't be removing the valve tap.
It looks like an awfully complicated way of going about a simple task.
Why wouldn't you just buy it all locally to go on together.
Over here your reg, Y and flows are all 3/8 thread fittings.
I would guess you have a standard fitting thread over there. You may as well use it rather than making bits fit bits with bits.
Personally I wouldn't recommend to anyone to start stripping down regulators and modifying them.

 

[Richard.]

It also looks to me like you've bought a reg not the best for splitting out into two flow meters. Your outlet goes down at 45° it would be far more usable if it went straight out at 90°. You don't need a twin clock reg as the flow ratings are set from your flow meters.
I'd put it back in its box send it back and get something more suitable (cheaper too probably).

 

[dazza]

All of the regs i've found locally are similar to this and cost €90 . Bought this one from Germany. All i can find apart from this are similar to what i have now (Chinese) or very expensive.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Druckmindere...396691?hash=item25bcdd1a13:g:cT8AAOSwP~tW3U2F

 

[Richard.]

All of the regs i've found locally are similar to this and cost €90 . Bought this one from Germany. All i can find apart from this are similar to what i have now (Chinese) or very expensive.

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Druckmindere...396691?hash=item25bcdd1a13:g:cT8AAOSwP~tW3U2F

Well if it was me I'd cop the €90 cost for a solution that fits together properly.
Buying regs and modding things to suit is a dodgy game and for a €50 saving is it worth it?? I see you did ask the question up the thread and had I seen it I would of advised against. Others should of done that too but hey ho it's done now.
Personally I think eBay has its uses but this isn't one of them. Stuff like this wants to be sourced in 1 hit the whole lot through someone who knows what they are talking about and sells you the solution.

 

[Richard.]

A simple set up like this is what you need. Then your Y piece will sit straight.

 

[dazza]

Is there an adaptor to go from nevoc to the uk style as i have a parweld reg.

 

[Richard.]

Thats a UK type reg with an adaptor to fit nevoc?

It's a uk type reg.
they can be bought with nevoc fittings that I'm sure of.

 

[Richard.]

Is there an adaptor to go from nevoc to the uk style as i have a parweld reg.

Just buy a nevoc reg.

 

[Richard.]

£40 over here.
Much more ideal.

 

[dazza]

£40 over here.
Much more ideal.

The fitting on mine looks slightly different to that, is it nevoc?

I'm going to keep this reg for the mig as it seems much better quality than the chinese one i have, which makes some very strange noises.

And some other goodies have arrived.

The procon pump, motor and tig torch.

The tig torch is WP18. Any good for me? or any bits i can use/change?

 

[Richard.]

It wouldn't be my own choice given it's well overrated for your 200 amp unit. One of the main advantages of water cooling is downsizing your torch.