- Thread starter GRW
- Start date
Question for fellow Renault Master people..... heater/blower controls in the centre of the dash below the radio - are the 3 dials (blower direction, heater, blower speed) meant to be back-lit & illuminated with lights on?
Mine aren't. Wondering if I have blown bulbs or a fault, or they are just like that.
TIA,
G.
Mine aren't. Wondering if I have blown bulbs or a fault, or they are just like that.
TIA,
G.
Well... I've made a small start on the van (conversion to camper). Emphasis on small start).
- Bodgy Tracker & spaghetti wiring removed.
- Bodgy Reversing Camera Screen & spaghetti wiring removed.
- Bodgy Hand Wash spaghetti wiring & unit removed.
- Double passenger seat out.
- Load Bulkhead taken out.
- Located the "single passenger seat" mount under the cabin mat, & core-drilled the mat so I can mount a single passenger seat.
- Started making a base for the Captain Seat I have from my old van (so Mitsubishi seat runners can mate to the Renault Master Floor mounts) out of Unistrut. Bolted-up a prototype & fitted the seat & temp fitted & tested that it can rotate etc in position. Works but needs tweaking & raising more, so I'm thinking to alter the mock-up for better access to bolts etc. & once all where it needs to be - to weld instead of just bolt it together (maybe clad/box in the sides as well for a more typical factory appearance to the base - not entirely sure yet!).
- Bodgy Tracker & spaghetti wiring removed.
- Bodgy Reversing Camera Screen & spaghetti wiring removed.
- Bodgy Hand Wash spaghetti wiring & unit removed.
- Double passenger seat out.
- Load Bulkhead taken out.
- Located the "single passenger seat" mount under the cabin mat, & core-drilled the mat so I can mount a single passenger seat.
- Started making a base for the Captain Seat I have from my old van (so Mitsubishi seat runners can mate to the Renault Master Floor mounts) out of Unistrut. Bolted-up a prototype & fitted the seat & temp fitted & tested that it can rotate etc in position. Works but needs tweaking & raising more, so I'm thinking to alter the mock-up for better access to bolts etc. & once all where it needs to be - to weld instead of just bolt it together (maybe clad/box in the sides as well for a more typical factory appearance to the base - not entirely sure yet!).
Funnily enough, was talking to two different Posties in the last couple of weeks. Both on different routes in rural West Wales, and both now issued with a leccy Postman Pat van.So you did not go for an electric van then mate?
Both (one F & my local postie who is M) had many tales of woe.
Some struggle to complete their round with range issues. In cold weather they daren't use the cabin heater or they risk not making it back.
On some hilly routes in the sticks - the PO have had to withdraw the leccy vans, & HIRE-IN diesel vans as the leccy couldn't cope.
Other routes are having to be shortened or curtailed without completion some days due to range issues (it seems the PO failed to consider that the Range Claims would be "perfect condition maximums" - not what a you get on a postie round duty).
The fleet has suffered quite a few breakdowns/reliability issues. It didn't occur to me before - but the postie said that one leccy van broke down on a narrow one-way high street & blocked it for hours..... cos she said the EV cannot be towed.
I saw somewhere that Amazon are ditching the EV Van & returning to diesels, stating that the EV just isn't suitable for their needs.
No real surprises or revelations I know (all pretty forseeable outcomes to a lot of folks) but still it was good to get some direct feedback from users.
Don't you live in The Fens Premmington, where it's all flat? You'd think the leccy postie vehicle would fare better without all out Welsh steep hills & wonky lanes?
Good to know - thanks!
You couldn't expand a bit on how/where to get at this bulb, could you?
(I thought I'd have a 'mare replacing the hazard light switch - but found if I levered off the section of dash (the Diddy pocket thing next to it when removed gave enough access to push the retaining clips in with a screwdriver & replace it without major dashboard dismantling)
Another " telling how to suck eggs" comment, When converting my T4 I realised that I didn't need a full width side door just for access so built the kitchen unit halfway across the opening . instant gain of about a foot and a bit and gave access to waste tank and gas bottle.
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Absolutely! This is precisely "The Plan" (in my head & subject to tweaks as I see what can fit where etc).
As I'm going for a rear mtb "garage" (plus whatever services I can tuck away in front of/over the rear arches) and a fixed bed above.... it does eat into internal space - so having the galley unit over part of the side door is kinda necessary!
But - with the bulkhead out it opens up the space nicely by giving you part of the cabin as "living space" with a captains passenger seat (I'm working on making a solid base for it atm out of some unistrut I have kicking about to fit the captain seat to the OEM seat floor mounts for mot & safety).
A small "sofa" facing the side door (with electrics underneath) is the thinking atm - a lot like my old vans layout - it creates a "living room" & social space, & the side door can be left open in nice weather to add to the space under the wind-out F45 awning that's going on
I did both my vans ( Mitsubishi L300 and VW T4 ) with the ability to revert back to an empty van in less than 10 mins with the aid of a 10mm T bar. All of the passenger side cabinets and kitchen units in one and the bed and cupboard unit on the drivers side unclipped and a couple or 3 6 mm bolts. I wish I still had either of them now. Used for Trials events ,M/c not Van.
I'm not that clever!
Well, I made a meal of it, & my welding varied from Fugly to just ugly (but solid - I'm an occasional and not very good welder), but I've made my seat base for the swivel passenger seat (that also moves fore-aft & reclines).
It fits, but it's gotta come back out so I can paint the base & maybe tart it a bit, and so I can pull up the matting to clean/check etc the cab floor, check my battery access and cable route for my split charger & leisure battery feed.
Made out of unistrut (cos its strong and I had some) - so I've welded 3 sections stacked high to get the height needed, and got 45-deg cuts on the ends for better access to the floor mount bolts & so it looks (a bit) neater.
My 6x4 Sealey bandsaw came in handy for cutting up the metal, and also I found the vice on it to be ideal for clamping sections together where I wanted them while I tack welded as well (never thought to try that before - but the saw was in the middle of the floor, so made best use of it!).
I'm no welder, fabber or engineer that's for certain - but it'll do the job.
It fits, but it's gotta come back out so I can paint the base & maybe tart it a bit, and so I can pull up the matting to clean/check etc the cab floor, check my battery access and cable route for my split charger & leisure battery feed.
Made out of unistrut (cos its strong and I had some) - so I've welded 3 sections stacked high to get the height needed, and got 45-deg cuts on the ends for better access to the floor mount bolts & so it looks (a bit) neater.
My 6x4 Sealey bandsaw came in handy for cutting up the metal, and also I found the vice on it to be ideal for clamping sections together where I wanted them while I tack welded as well (never thought to try that before - but the saw was in the middle of the floor, so made best use of it!).
I'm no welder, fabber or engineer that's for certain - but it'll do the job.
