New to TIG ally - few Q's

[DaveN]

Just been trying to lay a few beads on 1.6mm 6036 ally plate. I'm using wolfram green and gold 1.6 electrodes. Machine is set to plate thickness of 1.6 also.

First thing, I've ground the electrodes to a point, but they melt to a ball as soon as the arc starts, is this normal? It happens with both colour electrodes.

Second, the bead is very dull, as well as the surrounding metal after welding, and needs brightening up afterwards, again, is this normal?

 

[patreusch]

there's no real reason when practicing to sharpen them they just ball up unless you get like a 1/8 or 3/32 electrode im not sure what you mean by dull

 

[Seano]

Just been trying to lay a few beads on 1.6mm 6036 ally plate. I'm using wolfram green and gold 1.6 electrodes. Machine is set to plate thickness of 1.6 also.

First thing, I've ground the electrodes to a point, but they melt to a ball as soon as the arc starts, is this normal? It happens with both colour electrodes.

Second, the bead is very dull, as well as the surrounding metal after welding, and needs brightening up afterwards, again, is this normal?

Hi Dave
1) It is normal for the tungsten tip to ball up after a short time. what you really want to do is grind it so that you still have a small flat left on the tip, that will then turn into a nice balled tip rather than melting off and contaminating the weld pool.

2) What type / grade of filler rod are you using...? 4043,5356,1050
one is 99.5% pure one is 5% Sil and the other is 5% Mag, if you use a 5% Sil rod on 100% Pure sheet then it leaves a dull finish to the weld...HTH

 

[DaveN]

Thanks guys. First of all, I got the numbers wrong - it 6063 T6 ally. By dull, I mean not shiny like the sheet. I'm using 4043 rods, although they are unbranded and have a label on the box printed in the same type-face as all the other junk from China, except there's no spelling mistakes! Are 4043 ok for this ally?

 

[Seano]

Thanks guys. First of all, I got the numbers wrong - it 6063 T6 ally. By dull, I mean not shiny like the sheet. I'm using 4043 rods, although they are unbranded and have a label on the box printed in the same type-face as all the other junk from China, except there's no spelling mistakes! Are 4043 ok for this ally?

Ok Dave
Here's the lowdown on rods.....

1050-:

A pure aluminium (99.5% min) rod which produces a ductile weld equal in strength to that of the base metal. The weld is capable of being hammered, stretched and drawn into shape without fracture.

4043-:

An Aluminium alloy with 5% silicon giving excellent flow characteristics and penetration. Suitable for welding duralumin, cast (LM25) and wrought alloys 6063 (H9), 6061 (H20) and 6082 (H30). Weld will discolour if anodised.

4047-:

Aluminium rod containing 12% silicon. It has good mechanical properties, excellent corrosion resistance. Suitable for silicon bearing cast aluminium alloys and wrought alloys. Do not use if fabrication is to be anodised.

5183 -:

Special aluminium alloy containing 5% Magnesium and 0.75% Manganese, for improved weld strength.

5356 -:

A general purpose aluminium rod containing 5% magnesium that has excellent corrosion resistance and high strength. Suitable for welding magnesium bearing aluminium alloys such as 5251 (N4), 5154 (N5), 5454 (N51) and also heat treatable alloys 6063 (H9), 6061 (H20) and 6082 (H30).

5556-:

Aluminium alloy containing 5.3% Magnesium: all elements are closely controlled for optimum weld strength. Normally used on 5083 (N8) and for mil applications.

 

[DaveN]

A very comprehensive answer, thankyou.

 

[wyn]

When the welds are "dull" i'm sure that's an indication that there wasn't really enough heat during the welding. Mine always seem to be more like that

You do get a sort of white looking area either side of the weld which is the heat affected zone.

 

[hotrodder]

The white bands are a function of the arcs 'cleaning' action- it's size is related (mainly) to the AC balance settings but it'll always be present to some extent. Dull welds can be several things but usually it's a sign of getting everthing too hot, especially with 4043 filler which also tends to get a grainy texture when overheated.

If you're just starting out i'm guessing playing with smallish coupons/offcuts? Nowhere for the heat to go so a shiney weld is harder to achieve.

 

[wyn]

Handy info, hotrodder, That gives me a better idea of where i'm going wrong.
I also get that "grainy" sort of look with 4043 and thought more heat was the answer....will try less next time.

 

[NTwoO]

I'm just getting my fingers in shape with Aluminium. In my little town we have a construction shop specialised in Aluminium. They allow me to dig out pieces of scrap, I weld them all together and throw it back in the scrap bin.

I'm not sure what grade aluminium it is, but it is clean sheet aluminium. I've been playing around with it, but my welds were looking like the donkeys bottom. I used 4043 rod. The finish was shiny with little grains in it. When welding extruded 6061 I got a neat finish, but with these sheets it looks sheet. I then tried some 5356 rod. Now my welds come out with a beautiful creamy finish. Looks almost professional!

 

[Tig man aza]

I want a shIney weld will 5556 do