New to me bandsaw

[Woody.v8]

I have acquired a bandsaw 9x 16 " sip that requires a little tlc, It did work but someone nicked the start/run cap, Has anyone any idea what value cap I need
need? The motor is 1.1kw 4pole.
I know this saw is getting on a bit but it seems in good condition for a 1996 vintage, anyone know where I can get more information on the saw manual etc?

 

[chunkolini]

Woody, the saw is a waste of space.
The Honda XR? is even worse.Dreadful thing.
I will take both of your hands just to be helpful.

 

[Wallace]

I'll up Chunkolini's offer by a toffee apple and a plastic windmill as he is just being rude.

This PDF might be of some help as a guide if you can borrow a capacitor to try it.

 

[Woody.v8]

I'll up Chunkolini's offer by a toffee apple and a plastic windmill as he is just being rude.

This PDF might be of some help as a guide if you can borrow a capacitor to try it.

Soo I take it that with this motor only having 1 capacitor i take it its a run cap so going off the top table 1.10kw 35uf 450v?

 

[Wallace]

I posted that as a guide, have you looked in the motor wiring cover as there might be more info in there on the wiring? Sip still sell a similar saw here but 400v, parts lists here so you might find yours on there.

 

[Woody.v8]

I have had a few hours on this today, I spoke to the guy at the motor rewind place and he recommended 30uf so i got one of those and she lives!!
The coolant pump was seized so i striped and unseized that and it runs too albeit a bit noisy (i think the bearings are goosed).
Another repair to the wire brush thingy under the blade then I made the first cut.....
It wasn't too bad but the blades about knackered, So all in all i'm happy

 

[Wallace]

That's a result.

 

[Woody.v8]

I now have wiring diagrams and the user manual if anyone needs it.
The parts also seem largely available which is surprising for a 20 year old machine!

 

[Woody.v8]

 

[eSCHEn]

Nice saw and nice crosser

 

[MattF]

That looks to be a fair beast of a machine.

 

[Richard.]

Makes mine look pathetic

 

[Woody.v8]

Makes mine look pathetic

It isn't a peeing competition mate, it just came at the right money.
I have just been reading your thread, you've done well from a box of bits

 

[Richard.]

It isn't a peeing competition mate, it just came at the right money.
I have just been reading your thread, you've done well from a box of bits

Cheers. Yeah it' is a vast improvement from what I got in the first place. That thing you got looks a cracking thing. Have you sorted the pump out yet.

 

[Woody.v8]

The pump works fine its just a bit grumbley on the bearings (louder than saw!) Its on my todo list but I will get a new blade first, just not 100% what sort i want yet

 

[Richard.]

Takes time but that will be a super bit of kit with a fresh set of dentures.

 

[Richard.]

The pump works fine its just a bit grumbley on the bearings (louder than saw!) Its on my todo list but I will get a new blade first, just not 100% what sort i want yet

I'd recommend bi metal blades. Twice the price 10 times the life (with fluid) so it's a no brainier. Mine are starret m42 from a company called tuffsaw.
Ref the no of teeth it depends on what you want to cut and the finish your after/speed. If your cutting big thick lumps and don't want to wait for hours then a course tooth 4-6 tpi is great the cut will be a courser cut. I'm cutting up to 6mm wall thick and I prefer quality over speed so I chose a 14tpi. It's not that slow (few mins for 6mm flat) but the cut looks like it's been on a milling machine. So it's really about trade off finish vs speed.

 

[Woody.v8]

View attachment 66817
I'd recommend bi metal blades. Twice the price 10 times the life (with fluid) so it's a no brainier. Mine are starret m42 from a company called tuffsaw.
Ref the no of teeth it depends on what you want to cut and the finish your after/speed. If your cutting big thick lumps and don't want to wait for hours then a course tooth 4-6 tpi is great the cut will be a courser cut. I'm cutting up to 6mm wall thick and I prefer quality over speed so I chose a 14tpi. It's not that slow (few mins for 6mm flat) but the cut looks like it's been on a milling machine. So it's really about trade off finish vs speed.

I had already decided on a bimetal m42 but haven't settled down with a make or weather to go for a varipitch blade of not?
As for TPI it looks like I will need 2 or 3 different blades, i cut a lot of box and tube profiles from 1.6mm to 10mm wall also profiles channel etc, On the other hand on the odd occasion i want to cut 9 inch solid but tube box and angle are my priority.

 

[Richard.]

Yeah the 9 inch solid is gonna take a while with a fine toothed blade and the thin walled box/tube will be slung across the shop with a course tooth so as you say a couple of different types is what you need. Looks like you've got it in hand. My little monarch is finished to the point it's all put together, painted and running in its standard form so now I've got to add the improvements. I've got a little submerging pump which I tested last night with a 2mtr line. I've got a damper on the way for better down pressure control and I'm going to add a 600mm rule off the vice for short quick measurements I'm making a control panel to sit at the front when I figure out the best way to wire it up. All good fun.

 

[MattF]

All good fun.

Indeed. I honestly think that's what makes second hand, vintage or antique machinery as enjoyable as it is. It's not just the using of it, but also the finding, fettling & sorting of it.