New member with a paint quantity question!

[Daniel_h]

Firstly I would just like to say hello , I've only just registered on 'mig-welding' but I have been looking at quite a few threads on here in the last week or two as a non member! And think this is a very useful and well run forum. Im registerd on the volkswagen site 'uk-mkivs.net' and thats where I spend some of my time while online. Sorry for going on and on and on

Anyway im after some advice in relation to spraying,
I bought myself a 2.5hp 24l parkside air compresser last month from lidl with a 3 year guarntee, its just for spraying the odd set of alloy wheels and maybe a small body panel if its capable.
I got myself a lvlp spray gun with a 500ml pot 1.4mm nozzle but what i need to know is Roughly how much unmixed cellulose paint is required to do a set of 17" alloys? I was thinking half a litre, Would that be right? I phoned up my local paint suppliers for a quote and got givin a price of £29! Do you think that seem's steep or reasonable?

Thanks for your time,
Daniel.

 

[the snooper]

I would say 29 quid for half a litre was expensive

 

[Daniel_h]

Thanks for the reply, thats what I was thinking but then again the shop where I got the quote is one of the best in the local market and with them im assured the paint quality is good! I dont have money to burn so the price is a key factor I just dont want to buy cheap quality paint!

Daniel.

 

[Chipper]

Welcome ...
You'll be OK with that comp, it will empty fast, but pumps up again pretty fast. You'll want a half-decent water trap though, they make warm & wet air when they get a sweat on. Best sited further away from the comp than close to, gives the water more chance to drop out.

£29 a half does seem pricey, would a litre work out cheaper for the volume? Celly keeps so it could be worth doing.

 

[jacksparrow]

i pay £13 for half a litre

 

[Daniel_h]

Welcome ...
You'll be OK with that comp, it will empty fast, but pumps up again pretty fast. You'll want a half-decent water trap though, they make warm & wet air when they get a sweat on. Best sited further away from the comp than close to, gives the water more chance to drop out.

£29 a half does seem pricey, would a litre work out cheaper for the volume? Celly keeps so it could be worth doing.

I know I was looking at traps and was going to just go for the one below

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun...Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item45fad6b507

I would like to get a regulater aswell so I know what actual cfm is going through the nozzle as i've a 10m hose so it could reduce the cfm by quite a bit? But like you say it means I can be up to 10m away from the compresser as possible and means I can palce it somewhere with clean air supply where it wont be sucking in dirty air.



£13 a litre seems really good! I'll have to phone about and see wheres best then!
Anyone used halfrauds for paint?
Thanks.

 

[langy]

I know I was looking at traps and was going to just go for the one below

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spray-Gun...Air_Tools_and_Compressors&hash=item45fad6b507

I would like to get a regulater aswell so I know what actual cfm is going through the nozzle as i've a 10m hose so it could reduce the cfm by quite a bit? But like you say it means I can be up to 10m away from the compresser as possible and means I can palce it somewhere with clean air supply where it wont be sucking in dirty air.



£13 a litre seems really good! I'll have to phone about and see wheres best then!
Anyone used halfrauds for paint?
Thanks.

For god's sake don't go to Halfords for paint, Its like going to the butchers for a cabbage, go to a proper automotive paint factors

 

[Chipper]

That's a backup sort of mini-filter, I used to have them on my guns. You'll need a proper water trap which you can get combined with a regulator. Wall-mount, sort of T-shaped with inlet/out poking out sideways, if that makes sense.
Might lose a couple of psi due to line wall friction but nothing to lose sleep over.

Halfords counter-mixed paint is celly apparently, according to a bloke who worked there on another forum, and read it on here iirc. Don't know anyone who's actually used it though.

 

[Daniel_h]

For god's sake don't go to Halfords for paint, Its like going to the butchers for a cabbage, go to a proper automotive paint factors

I've always used halfords for rattle cans and i cant fault the nozzles or paint in any way! Compared to some places I would say they are good for paint but then again this is only in relation to aerosols so...

 

[Daniel_h]

That's a backup sort of mini-filter, I used to have them on my guns. You'll need a proper water trap which you can get combined with a regulator. Wall-mount, sort of T-shaped with inlet/out poking out sideways, if that makes sense.
Might lose a couple of psi due to line wall friction but nothing to lose sleep over.

Halfords counter-mixed paint is celly apparently, according to a bloke who worked there on another forum, and read it on here iirc. Don't know anyone who's actually used it though.

Yea I know the type your talking about, I seen one in a shop a while ago but thought maybe the small one would of did. I suppose the one your talking about would attach on the compressor then fix the hose to that? If you get me?
Thanks.

 

[langy]

I've always used halfords for rattle cans and i cant fault the nozzles or paint in any way! Compared to some places I would say they are good for paint but then again this is only in relation to aerosols so...

Thats not really proper painting though is it !!! as your due to find out

 

[Chipper]

The reg is best sat with a hose to it from the comp, so there's distance between then - lets the moisture drop out a bit better. Fix it to the wall or similar. That comp will get seriously warm and make wet air.

Better getting cans from a paint shop, usually get a choice of nozzle. Seen pro's get them mixed for small repairs, but for a full job a gun just can't be beat.

 

[the snooper]

For god's sake don't go to Halfords for paint, Its like going to the butchers for a cabbage, go to a proper automotive paint factors

Halfords automotive paint is a joke petrol washes it off, petrol on a car who would believe it

 

[Chipper]

Petrol affects most paint esp 1k surely? I did a chop about 20 yrs ago among others in H*ds rattle cans when all I had was a backyard patio, was good enough to appear in a mag and have several people want to buy it. Tank survived OK, sold it, bought it back etc still all OK.

 

[Daniel_h]

Thats not really proper painting though is it !!! as your due to find out

I understand that its not 'proper' painting but all I was saying is their aerosols imo are better than others so maybe their cellulose paints are better than others aswell?
Like I say i've no experience when it comes to buying cellulose paints, thinners, primers etc, and spraying using a compresser which is why I could do with all the advice anyone has to offer!

Another question I need advice on is what primer can I use for cellulose paints, it needs to be in an aerosol as I havnt got another gun for primer yet and dont want to use the only one i have at the moment and as arcylic primer is a no go would a high build primer do ok like the one below?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-POL-POW..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item2329e4e3c4

Thanks for taking the time to read.

NOTE: I am spraying alloy wheels that already have a key as they were sand-blasted so i've ruled out using etch primer.

 

[langy]

I understand that its not 'proper' painting but all I was saying is their aerosols imo are better than others so maybe their cellulose paints are better than others aswell?
Like I say i've no experience when it comes to buying cellulose paints, thinners, primers etc, and spraying using a compresser which is why I could do with all the advice anyone has to offer!

Another question I need advice on is what primer can I use for cellulose paints, it needs to be in an aerosol as I havnt got another gun for primer yet and dont want to use the only one i have at the moment and as arcylic primer is a no go would a high build primer do ok like the one below?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-POL-POW..._Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item2329e4e3c4

Thanks for taking the time to read.

NOTE: I am spraying alloy wheels that already have a key as they were sand-blasted so i've ruled out using etch primer.

Hmm, you have a lot to learn i'm afraid, aerosols are 90% thinner so don't build well, as for quality it will always be better buying from a specialist, fact i'm afraid.

Skipping the primer on aluminium will only lead to problems further along the road, aluminium has to have either etch primer or epoxy primer, unfortunately its an important part of the painting process.

 

[Daniel_h]

I know but unfortunitly im not giving up until I learn, so it may take a while!

I thought the high build primer would of been suitable for the alloy, the reason im saying this is because I thought the etch primer's purpose is to bond to the smooth alloy but as the alloy already has a slightly key'd surface the high build primer would have a good base to stick to? (If this sounds stupid then just ignore me!)
Thanks.

 

[langy]

I know but unfortunitly im not giving up until I learn, so it may take a while!

I thought the high build primer would of been suitable for the alloy, the reason im saying this is because I thought the etch primer's purpose is to bond to the smooth alloy but as the alloy already has a slightly key'd surface the high build primer would have a good base to stick to? (If this sounds stupid then just ignore me!)
Thanks.

If only it worked like that it would make painting so much easier No aluminium needs either etch or epoxy priming to get it to bond, I'm sure the other painters on here will be along shortly to confirm.
If you use regular hi build it will flake off after a while.

 

[Lawnmowerboy]

I'm not a painter, Primed up a few ally bits on my bike with normal celly went to flat it down and it literally peeled off! You must have etch primer for it to work.

Look at some of langy's work and you'll see he knows his onions...

 

[Daniel_h]

So once the alloy is primed with etch primer am I ok to go stright onto using cellulose paints or is there another stage before top coat? I'll also give the primer a slight sand with wet 1500grit to key the surfacet hen give it a wipe. Does that sound about right? Going to use the etch primer below:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130789814348?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Thanks.