It is a possibility that I'm willing to try if all other options failIs building it up with weld then flattening it off a no no?
I might try forge weld the plate on if that don't work I'd leave a gap between the plate and rail of about 10mm and fill with weld metal then hardface. The rail im looking to do this on is 300mm long plus I got a 5kg box of 4mm hardfacing rods for cheap so don't mind experimenting.Why bother welding a face on? Are you going to forge weld this plate on? If not it will have a small air space between it and the rail. When ever I have looked at hard face rods they were EXPENSIVE.
Two choices.
First use the piece of rail, end on. Anvils work best with mass below point of impact. 600mm rail below your hammer is good. Look at post anvils.
Second choice. Sell your rail and spend money saved on hard facing rods and either buy a second hand anvil or large block of steel.
Yes I know anvils have gone stupid in price. But cheaper anvils do appear. I see on evilbay a double horn anvil I'd like for £300. Others come up along the way. If you NEED an anvil tomorrow buy as good as you can afford even if that's buying new from a reputable supplier.
Andrew
Biggest I got is 3.2s 6013Got any big stick rods?
Could do that but I'd still need to get the bottom flat to grind the surface evenMake a stand for it - flat frame and three legs. You can make the legs the right length so the top sits flat on level ground.
300mm is perfect for what I need it for plus I will beef it up abit so it has some mass to it.A 300mm rail anvil will restrict what you can work. 6mm will be OK anything over 10mm will be hard work.
Here are a couple of images stolen from iforge iron. Improvised anvils.
Having the rail end on gives more mass to resist blows,hence more metal moved. You can grind an edge on the web of the rail to be a hot cut tool. View attachment 281683View attachment 281684
View attachment 281684
Unfortunately when I try add a picture it says file too large.Well a picture would be useful. Sounds like (if you're lucky) it's just the bottom flange which is deformed. If that's the case, a few bonks on a flypress will manipulate it to the required flatness.
If you're in London, pop over to Ealing with it and we'll have a go getting it flat.