Need Help With Gasless MIG

[kevboy22]

hi my name is kev and i found this site while looking for tips on how to mig weld with no gas. i havent welded before and i am looking for tips on how to start eg what speed of the wire and what setting to use. my mig welder is wolfweld 140 turbo fan cooled combination gas/no gas. it said on the manual that it is set for electric use but as i went through manual it said i had to change thickness of wire from 0.6/0.8mm to 0.9mm wire flux and also change tensioner to 0.9mm. i did so but when i tried it out on scrap metal it just kept spitting. it also said about changing over the + & -wires but the diagram does not match the layout of my machine any suggestions on how to sort this problem. once i get the hang of it i will be welding parts of a old snack trailer which has split joints and has holes due to heavy rust which i will put pictures of it on soon. i have grinded and cut most of the rust away and covered with no.1 rust buster for now till i can weld.

all suggestion welcome and need asap

thanks
kev.

 

[Robotstar5]

For gasless you need to connect the earth clamp to the "+" and torch to the "-" terminals/sockets.

And welcome to the forum

 

[fridgeman999]

Hi Kev,
Think you will find it does spit alot, you will also have lots of smoke, hard to see where you are, and it will not be pretty.
Are you talking about the chassis? Will be even harder in all the postions you will need.
Also think the welder will find it hard with this thickness.

Nothing is easy with gasless welder, Sorry.

Goodluck. Chris.

 

[Wookster]

I've been using a gasless mig for over 10 years now without any problems.
Its not as clean as using gas (more spatter) but if you are outside its a lot easier.

What I'd suggest is to start with a clean piece of metal and try to run a bead of weld on the lowest power setting. Don't worry about penetration, just adjust the wire speed until you can run a bead.

If its too high then you will feel the wire tapping the metal through the gun, too slow and it will burn back. I think this is your problem.

Once you can run a bead, adjust the power and wire speed until you can see that the weld has penetrated to the other side of the metal. These are the settings for that thickness of metal, so make a note.

Do the same for thicker metal like the chassis, because if its structural it needs to be done right.

 

[kevboy22]

thanks for all your suggestions. i have changed the + & - over and its working alot better. i have managed to get the hang of it now and have it set at right speed n power. still do get a bit of spatter but i have grinded it down and its doing the job. thanks again