Need help finding a Aluminium welder in london

[tattootroy]

Hello am troy and am new to the forum.
I have being reading the forums about welding alloy.
thinking a cheap mig could weld alloy.
Only to find out that i need an expensive setup
which i think will only be used a few times.
So am after a welder, or a work shop in london who can weld my alloy exhaust pipe, for a remote petrol car.

The pipe is 20mm in diameter and 1.2mm thick.
i need 2 20mm D and 2 16mm D joints to be welded. the 16mm tube is 1mm thick.
So if any one knows where or who can weld this for me for a price, please let me know.
Am located in east london but ill happily drive to a location to get it done
regards
pics below.

 

[scott0031]

Hi and welcome,

Edit: link now works.


My advice to you would be to use something such as this http://http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8823&frostProductName=Lumiweld+Kit+%285+rods%29

All ally production model exhaust are made using aluminium soldering techniques. Normally done in ovens then heated to the appropriate temperature. From memory they typically use a paste version of these products so it can be applied to the joint then heated until it flows..

I think this is the best option available to you as those exhausts are very thin indeed, whilst it can be tigged. (as i have done some in the past) It does contain a risk of blowing away the material and scrapping the tube.


I hope this is of some help, soldering is the way to go for this application.


Kind regards,



Scott (ward eng)

 

[tattootroy]

nice. and the good is i get to do it my self.
thanks very much for this info. regards

 

[chevyman_de]

I hope that you don't want to use the stock exhaust can as a manifold and attach the tuned pipe to its outlet tube. That would do no good to the engine's performance. So you need a real manifold as well to install the pipe, preferably made of steel as aluminum manifolds are failure prone on petrol engines. Exhaust gas temps are too hot for them.
Btw. 16 mm tube is to small for a 27/28cc engine, it will kill the revs and this car already has a low gearing...

Btw2: I think you would like somer heavier springs for the shocks along with higher viscosity shock oil.

 

[tattootroy]

hello thanks for the input. i bought a alloy header. its very thick alloy
that i will weld the 20mm tube.
The 16mm was for an additional silencer that i wanted to weld to the tune pipe out put nozzle.
I have now sand all the black power coating off as ill be polishing it.
ill post some pic of the finish job

am now waiting till monday or tuesday for the lumiweld to be delivered.
am so greatfull for this info about the lumiweld rods.
am now thinking about some nice lil projects i can now do. Thats if its as easy as i saw in the videos

alloy header below i

 

[chevyman_de]

You do know that this is a watercooled manifold for boats?
I hope it lasts, I've seen too many aluminum car headers destroyed by heat.
And do not weld/solder the complete exhaust system into one solid unit. That would definitely break!

 

[tattootroy]

yea its for boats.
it was the best alloy header i could find as i didn't want to use any silicone tubes to join steel header to alloy.
this header is very thick solid chunk, with drilled holes.
hopefully it should be ok
some pics of it below

 

[chevyman_de]

That manifold is nicely made. Nevertheless I expect the area where the thread on the pipe ends as the weak point. If you're able to get a piece of stainless steel pipe with that thread this would be a huge improvement.

Silicone hose is not that bad if it's the right one with fabric reinforcement, heavy wall teflon tube is also a proven solution. You should go for separate manifold and pipe. Even one-piece steel units (like JetPro) do crack in many cases near the mounting tabs, with all-aluminum it's a call for desaster.

Did you modify the rims or use longer wheel squares to make room for the Mecatech calipers on the rear hubs?

 

[hotrodder]

Melting point for that lumiweld stuff is 380ish C (almost 1/2 that of aluminium). It's full of zinc which will wreck havoc if it fails (temps involved or technique) and you need to get it welded. Make sure you do some practice joints first

 

[tattootroy]

Yep if it fails ill definitely get a steel pipe. Just that this Mielke pipe is very light as its fully alloy and not as loud as the samba and jetpro.
Thats right i had to trim down the wheel spokes for the hydro brake to fit.
few pics below.
Do you have the same truck?

Ill do a couple test weld before i weld the pipe.
which gas is better out of the 2 map-gas or propane gas?

 

[chevyman_de]

Do you have the same truck?

No, I'm just working in a shop that sells such cars. I don't drive them anymore.

MAP burns much hotter, but the costs are high. Try propane first, it should do the job .

 

[tattootroy]

Here is a pics of the finish job with lumiweld. also B&Q sells them 2 rods for £2.75.
I could have done a better job with a pencil point blow torch as the map gas torch nozzle was too big, which blow heat all over the joints. in the end i got it done with 2 minor leaks which i blocked with silicone and heat resistant tape. really strong stuff.