Need Advice on What to Buy

[monkeh]

Its the same one the XR936H. What machine are you using, is it an inverter? are you doing AC or Dc tig? I have the parweld xti160 which is a little inverter stick machine that can do lift start DC TIG and the hood is useless with it on TIG but works most of the time when stick welding.

I can strike an arc on tig and then (without moving anything) the lens will darken and then all of a sudden flash me for several seconds and then activate again then flash on and off quickly a few times etc...

 

[Tom Orrow L]

You can get a WH70 Jackson for like £190 + VAT, that's like £40 more than a Lincoln Viking from Rapid. Way worth it IMO

 

[monkeh]

The only place in the uk ive seen the WH70 for was united welding supplies for £289

 

[Tom Orrow L]

The only place in the uk ive seen the WH70 for was united welding supplies for £289

There's other places that sell them you know

 

[Richard.]

Vikings are very good also. Lots to choose from.
Viking 3350
Miller digital elite
Esab aristo HD
Jackson wh70
Speed glas 9100.
All very high end tig lids.

 

[BrianCork]

Its the same one the XR936H. What machine are you using, is it an inverter? are you doing AC or Dc tig? I have the parweld xti160 which is a little inverter stick machine that can do lift start DC TIG and the hood is useless with it on TIG but works most of the time when stick welding.

I can strike an arc on tig and then (without moving anything) the lens will darken and then all of a sudden flash me for several seconds and then activate again then flash on and off quickly a few times etc...

I use it on an inverter machine on DC, works fine all the way from 10 amps up to 160, haven't had any reason to go above that while tigging ms or stainless. Also use it on an old transformer based machine for AC and again never had issues, I actually thought it was a brilliant mask, probably one of the best I've ever used and I've gone through a few, so was surprised when I read your problems! Once ever it's flashed on me, and I'd imagine it was because there was someone migging beside me and it got confused! How long have you had it?

 

[norlander]

I can strike an arc on tig and then (without moving anything) the lens will darken and then all of a sudden flash me for several seconds and then activate again then flash on and off quickly a few times etc...

I don't know owtabout your model of mask but has it got a sensitivity settin? if so Bung the sensitivity setting up if that mask has it, TIGs constant arc can cause that, settings that work for MIG sometimes don't work with TIG, summat to do with the constanst intense arc or sumthin like that.
Good luck in getting sorted.

 

[BrianCork]

Yes @norlander they have a sensitivity setting, thought about it being that but said he'd more than likely have tried it, if not though then surely adjusting the sensitivity should sort it, it has a broad enough range of settings!

 

[monkeh]

Yes ive tried all sorts of settings over the whole range, delay settings too. Also tried it under fluorescent lighting, incandescent lights, in the dark, and outside lol. Ive been practicing stick for a few hours today and its been working fine maybe its faulty or it just doesnt like the arc of my welder.

Ive had it just under 2 months with about 25 hours usage.

 

[monkeh]

I use it on an inverter machine on DC, works fine all the way from 10 amps up to 160, haven't had any reason to go above that while tigging ms or stainless. Also use it on an old transformer based machine for AC and again never had issues, I actually thought it was a brilliant mask, probably one of the best I've ever used and I've gone through a few, so was surprised when I read your problems! Once ever it's flashed on me, and I'd imagine it was because there was someone migging beside me and it got confused! How long have you had it?

Inspired by this i just tried it again and im currently blind, sometimes it will work ok but mostly it doesnt even activate at all. I tried every sensitivity and delay level.
This is my first time tig welding so maybe im doing something wrong thats causing it but i doubt it.

 

[BrianCork]

Inspired by this i just tried it again and im currently blind, sometimes it will work ok but mostly it doesnt even activate at all. I tried every sensitivity and delay level.
This is my first time tig welding so maybe im doing something wrong thats causing it but i doubt it.

I may well be wrong, and don't quote me on it, but to be honest I'd be leaning towards it being faulty, how long have you had it? At this stage tho I'd be calling it quits with using it until you solve the problem or replace it, it's never worth coming away from a job seeing little stars infront of you!

 

[norlander]

I may well be wrong, and don't quote me on it, but to be honest I'd be leaning towards it being faulty, how long have you had it? At this stage tho I'd be calling it quits with using it until you solve the problem or replace it, it's never worth coming away from a job seeing little stars infront of you!

I'd agree with Brian, it may the helmets power source -I'm no expert, but if you can afford a higher spec mask -and maybe use that for TIG only and use your old one for MIG/MMA if it works ok on those processes.

On your tungsten question, as one gent has said, there is a trend to use Blue 2% Lanthanated for everything, and it works ok for me.

There is also a growing number folks that use a No 7 cup for pretty much all jobs.

One Tungsten type and one cup size keeps it nice and simple.

For your first learning sessions, you may want to use a standard set up-ie no gas lens, as you may be touching down and touching in the filler rod, I did find that can sometimes smeg up the fine mesh screen in the gas lens.
Batch sharpen a set of tungstens to save time when learning.

Try to get good clean steel to learn on -in fact anytime you TIG. I find that when you get the knack of keeping a tight arc, any, and I do mean any, tiny piece of crud will jump up and snot the the tungsten up.

All the best for happy learning, try not to swear too loud

 

[Richard.]

I would agree with above.
If Brian is getting good results with no flashing on the same process

I'd agree with Brian, it may the helmets power source -I'm no expert, but if you can afford a higher spec mask -and maybe use that for TIG only and use your old one for MIG/MMA if it works ok on those processes.

On your tungsten question, as one gent has said, there is a trend to use Blue 2% Lanthanated for everything, and it works ok for me.

There is also a growing number folks that use a No 7 cup for pretty much all jobs.

One Tungsten type and one cup size keeps it nice and simple.

For your first learning sessions, you may want to use a standard set up-ie no gas lens, as you may be touching down and touching in the filler rod, I did find that can sometimes smeg up the fine mesh screen in the gas lens.
Batch sharpen a set of tungstens to save time when learning.

Try to get good clean steel to learn on -in fact anytime you TIG. I find that when you get the knack of keeping a tight arc, any, and I do mean any, tiny piece of crud will jump up and snot the the tungsten up.

All the best for happy learning, try not to swear too loud

sound advice N