Need Advice on What to Buy

[monkeh]

Hi Guys,

So i have a Parweld xti 160 DC inverter which is a MMA machine that can do lift arc tig which is what i want to try next.

What im not sure about is whats the best kit to buy so i can try the tig out. The machine came with a parweld wp9v torch but its just the bare bones torch, no cups, lens, collets etc. i see it has no switch on it just a valve for the gas, is it just a case of lifting the torch to break the arc at the end of the weld and then put the torch back for a few seconds before turning off the gas or am i supposed to buy a switch?

From looking on the forum it seems im best buying ck kit not the cheap chinese stuff off ebay, im also not sure what tungsten is the best, red or blue im thinking, ill be practicing on mild steel and stainless.
Im also struggling to work out whats the best reg to get and flow meter.

Im also worried i might be wasting my time trying tig on this little cheap mma welder and should wait till i can afford a proper tig machine, however if i buy good kit i can use it on a newer machine when i get one.
If anyone can point me in the right direction or has any kit for sale please let me know.
I'll be calling in to BOC tomorrow with my ID to sort out a volkzone account.

Cheers Karl

 

[AdrianH]

Usually the arc machines are live all the time, so when using them for TIG there is no switch controls. No arc on/off. No post or pre flow timer. So yes you basically open the gas when up to the work, touch on and lift off to start the arc, then weld away and as you say break the arc and move back to give post flow gas and then switch off the gas valve.
Very basic type of machine, but also less to go wrong.

Forgot to say do not forget opposite terminals for TIG to stick, normally!
Adrian

 

[monkeh]

Thanks Adrian, Anyone got any advice on what consumables i should be looking at? I'm thinking 1.6mm tungsten and some ck wedge collets, gas lens,heat shield and a 6,7 and 8 cup. still not sure what colour tungsten i need? red or blue?

 

[AdrianH]

I would take your torch with you and get a range, I think they will be common to the size, I have basic TIG stuff, but then again I do not do that much, think I have standard holders and gas lenses also for cup sizes 6 and 7 Standard size also have a 5, but rarely used.

Adrian

 

[wyn]

I had a bash at scratch start tig a couple of years ago.
I had a thread on here somewhere and the general advice was once you have finished the weld and break the arc, there is no advantage from putting the torch back to try and get any sort of post flow over the weld.

 

[monkeh]

Ah Ok. Thanks for the info. Any recommendations for a good 2 stage reg.

 

[Richard.]

Don't get too hung up on torch parts a 1.6 bit kit with your collets, bodies, tungstens etc will be fine.
Adrian hit the nail on the head. It's a live torch so you need to avoid tungsten contact until your set to go. There is no switch.
Good use of this type of striking takes skill. I did it for a long time and after practice you will see its a very usable process.
If its scratch you flick in. Most people do this off the job but I prefer to do it off the filler rod.
It's a preference thing and you need to get the technique right so that the tungsten just catches the filler while in contact with the job then off you go.
Snapping out is a tiny but fast movement. I see all too many people break the arc at arms length causing all sorts of oxides getting in there.
Your hand should stay where it is twist your wrist 90 degrees quickly to snap out the arc then back again to post flow. (Without touching again).

 

[Richard.]

there is no advantage from putting the torch back to try and get any sort of post flow over the weld.

Couldn't disagree with that more.
There is every need to post flow
While that weld is glowing hot on the end it is very vulnerable to been attacked by oxides as is the tungsten. Getting back over it quickly is key.

 

[optima21]

1.6mm blue electrodes......think these may be the ones you're after, and recommended by others on here

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172273474675

 

[monkeh]

Thanks guys, i think im all set with everything i need to order except a regulator, ive been looking for hours but with my very limited knowledge i cant decide which one i should get. Im not sure if i should get a single or multistage, single gauge with flowmeter, dual gauge with flow meter or one of those fancy optimiser things with it all intergrated lol and ive no idea what make to go for. Someone please just tell me which one to buy, preferably under £100 as im spending a fortune already >.<
cheers

 

[Richard.]

Something along these lines will be spot on. You don't really need a twin stage reg. It will save you a bit of gas but as your opening up valves and striking in contact the real Benifit of them of perfect hf striking from lack of surging isn't gonna Benifit you.
A decent single stage with flow tube would be perfect.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...-.html&usg=AFQjCNHAreFYmAJE1lN-6pOdmVTic5PlcQ

 

[monkeh]

Thanks richard, i thought that might be the case but its always nice to hear it from someone else.

 

[Richard.]

Your welcome.

 

[monkeh]

So, my parweld helmet cant handle DC TIG without constantly flashing me, so im after a good helmet, Ive spent a few hours looking and it seems the Viking 3350 is the best "bang for the buck" helmet around that isnt stupid money.
Is there a 1-1-1-1 helmet thats better and cheaper? £170 is a lot of money to me but i also dont want another crappy hood.
I know there are a few retailers on here, maybe one of you has a better deal on a good 1-1-1-1 hood.

Cheers Karl

 

[Tom Orrow L]

Best helmet for TIG is the Jackson WH70 BH3 IMO, really can't go wrong with it. Perfect optics, comfy headgear, brilliant sensors.. The lot!

 

[Richard.]

So, my parweld helmet cant handle DC TIG without constantly flashing me, so im after a good helmet, Ive spent a few hours looking and it seems the Viking 3350 is the best "bang for the buck" helmet around that isnt stupid money.
Is there a 1-1-1-1 helmet thats better and cheaper? £170 is a lot of money to me but i also dont want another crappy hood.
I know there are a few retailers on here, maybe one of you has a better deal on a good 1-1-1-1 hood.

Cheers Karl

I have a Viking 3350.
They are very good as is the wh70.

 

[norlander]

Couldn't disagree with that more.
There is every need to post flow
While that weld is glowing hot on the end it is very vulnerable to been attacked by oxides as is the tungsten. Getting back over it quickly is key.

I would advise putting the back and post flowing over the weld after snapping out with lift or scratch start TIG.

I did not bother much when I started out that way as my welds were not critical or structural.

I had problems later when I moved on to a higher spec HF start/post flow TIG set because I had not got into the habit of post flowing on to the weld.

Snap out with a sort of fast striking a match action, then rotate the torch back over the of the run. That way the tungsten gets cooled down along with the cooling bead being shielded.Just don't forget to turn the gas off after you have finished

 

[monkeh]

Yeah I'd love a wh70 but it's 100 quid more than the 3350 and that's 100 quid more than I wanted to pay lol

 

[cocker]

Yeah I'd love a wh70 but it's 100 quid more than the 3350 and that's 100 quid more than I wanted to pay lol

They come with a 5 year guarantee -
Go on - you know your worth it .

 

[BrianCork]

So, my parweld helmet cant handle DC TIG without constantly flashing me, so im after a good helmet, Ive spent a few hours looking and it seems the Viking 3350 is the best "bang for the buck" helmet around that isnt stupid money.
Is there a 1-1-1-1 helmet thats better and cheaper? £170 is a lot of money to me but i also dont want another crappy hood.
I know there are a few retailers on here, maybe one of you has a better deal on a good 1-1-1-1 hood.

Cheers Karl

What model of Parweld helmet was it? I have a XR936H (I think, not 100% certain) and it's been perfect for all my tig work so far, I really couldn't fault it at all..