Arc Tourist
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Dangerous to do with a threaded on chuck, unless its somehow locked in place.
- Thread starter brewdexta
- Start date
Yeah, I have a small 10" Chester lathe, the chuck is held on by four nuts and bolts...
Are the myfords screw on chucks?
brewdexta
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Yes, and the ML7 has no spindle lock, mines been ok but I've heard they can be a pig to remove without damaging gears or the casting etc. There is a little plastic tool you can print or buy that helps, the one I have linked to sits on the casting, there is a better one the goes further inside and avoids the possibility of cracking the casting as its thin below the edge
brewdexta
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The toolpost arrived from @Pete. Thanks Pete! very well packaged too 
@doubleboost shows how to make a new t-bolt for the wedge type toolpost in this vid, very handy.
John also reviews the wedge type tool post and uses 12mm tooling with it, so that may get onto my birthday wish list if I don't get on with the 4 way post.
I'll take a butchers this evening and see what needs doing to fit the post. I also bought some tips. CCMT060204 and GTN2 & 3.
Cheers
Andy
@doubleboost shows how to make a new t-bolt for the wedge type toolpost in this vid, very handy.
John also reviews the wedge type tool post and uses 12mm tooling with it, so that may get onto my birthday wish list if I don't get on with the 4 way post.
I'll take a butchers this evening and see what needs doing to fit the post. I also bought some tips. CCMT060204 and GTN2 & 3.
Cheers
Andy
The toolpost arrived from @Pete. Thanks Pete! very well packaged too
View attachment 379476
@doubleboost shows how to make a new t-bolt for the wedge type toolpost in this vid, very handy.
John also reviews the wedge type tool post and uses 12mm tooling with it, so that may get onto my birthday wish list if I don't get on with the 4 way post.
I'll take a butchers this evening and see what needs doing to fit the post. I also bought some tips. CCMT060204 and GTN2 & 3.
View attachment 379477
Cheers
Andy
I'll be watching with interest how you get on with the toolpost.
As regards the inserts, the ccmt ones are good for general turning but to get a nice finish the dcmt are hard to beat.
brewdexta
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Pete's 4 way toolpost fitted directly onto the same stud as the old post. I had a senior moment when I fitted an extra plate that came with it, but wasn't necessary. Removing it meant that 8mm tooling is on centre height with the merest of shims underneath,
Below is without the shim, a gnats under centre. Thanks again Pete! I have a cutter and a parting tool mounted at the moment, it saves a lot of time when making these pointy grub screws for the saw.
I've now got the lathe moved to the right a bit so I can get the cover off the headstock end to see what change gears I have. I have 38, 40, 45, 50, 55 & 65 on the bench, the rest or on the lathe. I can't see the numbers without removing them but looks like a couple of 20s and a 25 and I can see a 60, and one a bit bigger, so I may have one larger one missing, probably a 70, and a maybe one of smaller ones from the "standard" set of gears. I believe the standard set is 2 x 20, 25, 30, 35,38, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 & 75. I'll have a closer look another day, I'm busy on the saw restoration at the moment.
One last thing I did was add a NVR switch I had knocking about, my dad was controlling it from the socket, silly sod
Cheers
Andy
Below is without the shim, a gnats under centre. Thanks again Pete! I have a cutter and a parting tool mounted at the moment, it saves a lot of time when making these pointy grub screws for the saw.
I've now got the lathe moved to the right a bit so I can get the cover off the headstock end to see what change gears I have. I have 38, 40, 45, 50, 55 & 65 on the bench, the rest or on the lathe. I can't see the numbers without removing them but looks like a couple of 20s and a 25 and I can see a 60, and one a bit bigger, so I may have one larger one missing, probably a 70, and a maybe one of smaller ones from the "standard" set of gears. I believe the standard set is 2 x 20, 25, 30, 35,38, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70 & 75. I'll have a closer look another day, I'm busy on the saw restoration at the moment.
One last thing I did was add a NVR switch I had knocking about, my dad was controlling it from the socket, silly sod
Cheers
Andy
Agroshield
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I am struggling to understand that statement. The xCMT part of the insert designation is the same for both (7 degrees clearance, positive rake). If you use inserts with the same nose radius (e.g. the '04' in CCMT060204 or DCMT070204) the only difference is that the C insert has an 80 degree included angle and the D insert has a 55 degree included angle. I am not sure how the included angle of the insert can affect the finish with all other parts of its geometry being the same.
I don't know either, I'm not clued up on insert geometry. All I know is if I want to get a nice finish on steel I use the diamond shape DCMT tool.
E T
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I get a very good finish and good chip breaking with the ccmt inserts on my mini lathe on heavy cuts, but on light finishing cuts the finish is not as good and the chips don't break. On light cuts the dcmt give a better finish but still long stringy chips.
Chip breaking with both is only good on heavier cuts but that good be because its to much hassle to change the feed rate on my mini lathe with the change gears. I would love a bigger lathe with a gearbox.
I absolutely agree with you about changing feed rates on these lathes.
That's why I now have my banjo disconnected and feed the lead screw from the opposite end with a car wiper motor. I can now change the speeds on the fly by turning a knob.
I only use the change gears for screw cutting now.
Its a great mod. Cheap to do and not difficult.
As a bonus the lathe runs much quieter too.
brightspark
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i love my myord and wouldn't part with it .but the price of the new ones are well over priced by rdg and over rated bought mine new for 800. i think theres plenty of other well capable machines to be had a lot cheaper
brewdexta
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I was surprised when the vid stated they are all made in the UK including the castings with the exception of the motor and DRO. I haven't included the chuck in that statement as its up to you if you buy Chinese, Indian, Taiwanese, Polish or UK
That has got to add to cost, but I think the target audience is not somebody who wants one purely for its function, or they would buy something else.
Its a bit like buying a new Land Rover Defender..... Perfectly capable but at 80K+ I wouldn't be throwing stuff in it or taking it off road into the local quarry!
That has got to add to cost, but I think the target audience is not somebody who wants one purely for its function, or they would buy something else.
Its a bit like buying a new Land Rover Defender..... Perfectly capable but at 80K+ I wouldn't be throwing stuff in it or taking it off road into the local quarry!
Last edited:
Scalarocco
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I know this is fact as one of our suppliers does the machining work for many of the parts used in Myfords. I've seen work head castings, gear covers and other parts all being machined there.
Scalarocco
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I'd like to buy one as a machined kit of parts then fit it together myself.
Sounds like a good modification, I've mine set up with the finest feed rate & I still think its too coarse to get a really good finish!
Any chance you could post a few photos or links to the materials used?
Here ya go.
Post in thread 'Stuff you have made today' https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/stuff-you-have-made-today.67127/post-2156894
Wiper motor three bolt 50mm pcd 3 bolt. VW I think. Free off Richiew on here!
12v 10amp power supply (about £12)
DC speed controller off eBay (about £6)
Better quality potentiometer and fwd/ rev switch than what came with controller board ( about £10 the pair)
Flexy drive coupling £6 eBay.
I like the direct coupling, the ones on Youtube use a belt drive. Are you able to get a slow enough speed with the direct drive?
