My XTZ 660 Tenere refresh thread.

[Norsk]

Well after reading of another riders problem trying to get the revs above 3000 ,I pulled the air hose off the secondary carb (6). Now it revs out and is quite snappy on the throttle.

The hose was disconnected in the middle when I took the fairings off. I can't see if the hose is ment to join the carb or not?

Is this system a kind of EGR valve 1990s style?

 

[dobbslc]

What year and model is your bike?

 

[Norsk]

1992 XT 660 Z
Tenere

 

[dobbslc]

That hose #6 is a vent to air I think.
Have you taken off the top of that carb and checked the diagram?

 

[RichardM]

Vent pipe for the diaphragm, the black blob on the end is a filter. It goes on the pipe coming from by the diaphragm housing. Check the filter is not blocked.

 

[Norsk]

That hose #6 is a vent to air I think.
Have you taken off the top of that carb and checked the diagram?

Thank you.

I have taken off the top of that carb and replaced the diafram and spring.

All back together now sans the bash plate. Will go for a blatt tonight and check for leaks before I reinstall it.

Thank you very much for everyone's help,especially @RichardM

 

[Norsk]

Went for a 100km blatt,around Osterøy. In the main it went well the is still a bit of a flat spot between 3 and 3500rpm. Had a few back fires when I tried to accelerate in a gear that might have been to high.

I wonder if I should order a Stator,the rectifier looks fairly new but the rest of the bike isn't.

 

[Keithmac]

Don't go shot gunning parts at it, proper testing on stator first.

I would say in the region of 0.5 to 1.0 ohm between two of the 3 windings and no resistance to ground on any of the winding wires (normally three yellow wires but iirc most Yamahas use white for the stator windings).

A miss fire around 3500 rpm is on the transition from pilot to main jet, normally bikes are tolerant to slightly rich mixtures, lean will cause misfire and surging.

Personally I only use Keyster kits (made in Japan), Tourmax make an acceptable fuel needle and seats and ABAX Jets (part of EBC, made in UK) make good main / pilot jets.

Nice to see you are nearly there.

I bought an expensive carb rebuild kit for a Kawasaki ZZR600, cost me days of work and 2 comebacks before fitting a Keyster kit (we sucked up all labour charges and the price of the Keyster kit itself under warranty). Never missed a beat afterwards.

That really peed me off as I have a rule of thumb with carb jobs that we never use anything other than Keyster and we always replace all the jets / Fuel needles etc. Parts availability cooked that one up..

 

[Norsk]

Thank you Keith

I had a feeling that the problem might be the transitioning. The fuel level should be between 6-8 mm below the mating surface.I kept to 6mm because the float was already at 28mm which was the max in the book,I was surprised to see the max float level produce the minimum fuel level but there you go.

Should I pull the carb again and lower the float a touch more?

I have a bit of a supply lag being here in Norway,it's better to have something and not need it,than the reverse. As you can always resell stuff and break even.

 

[Keithmac]

If your float height (I measure with the weight of the float just touching the needle) and fuel level are in spec next adjustment ie pilot air screw.

Where have you set the pilot air screw from fully seated in?.

 

[RichardM]

On the 600 that is the transition range where it is coming onto the low range needle. I would raise the low range needle 1 notch, NOT the one with the diaphragm.

 

[Norsk]

If your float height (I measure with the weight of the float just touching the needle) and fuel level are in spec next adjustment ie pilot air screw.

Where have you set the pilot air screw from fully seated in?.

2.5 rotations out from fully seated.

That was the book detting

 

[Norsk]

On the 600 that is the transition range where it is coming onto the low range needle. I would raise the low range needle 1 notch, NOT the one with the diaphragm.

Which one is the low range needle please?

 

[RichardM]

None of those, but check the little holes in the side of part three are clear.

 

[RichardM]

Part 47, it has a long needle with a clip in grooves holding it in position.

 

[Norsk]

I will get onto this later in the week. When for a ride yesterday, look forward to getting it 100%

 

[Norsk]

I checked the fuel level again,with a clear tube. 5.92mm so let's say 6. That's in the recommend range.

Pulled the needle out,really interesting since I had never seen one before. Raised the needle one notch.

Putting it back together now

 

[Norsk]

Put it all back together.

might have it back on tomorrow evening, fingers crossed.

 

[Norsk]

All back together and running like a scalded cat!

What a difference! Really feels like a different bike.The low range needle has just one more notch remaining now below the clip after I raised it following @RichardM 's advice.

I can still feel a tiny bit of surging if I hold the bike at about 3000rpm on purpose but the missing and back fires are gone.

I was not looking forward to starting it honestly, since I had never been that deep into a carb before,however it turned out well due to all the kind advice from here.

I will take it on a 800km round trip over the mountains to Oslo starting Friday.

 

[Norsk]

I can smell fuel when it's parked up. I can't see any leaks however. I will just run it as is to see if it gets worse.