- Thread starter pc18
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wheresmejumper
Banned
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worth a try opening the torch handle to check the gas connection inside
pc18
Member
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i took the torch apart last night and the connection for the gas was all loose. i think this was what's been causing the problem. before with a freshly ground tungsten it would go all black and oxidised now it seems to be staying clean and keeping its point. I need to get some more tungsten and ceramics now though as i only had 2 and they've about been used up now.
pc18
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so now equipped with new ceramics, tungsten and a tightened gas connection in the torch heres how ive got on.
heres my torch
i had a little go on the 316 stainless im making my exhaust from
after welding bits jump of it and a little wire brush shows its full of little holes
and heres on the inside
so im guessing i still have a gas problem. when i press the button on the torch i can feel the gas coming out. Ive tried both end caps and also tightly wrapping duct tape around the back cap incase it was leaking. Ive still to get a peashooter on the end of the torch and see what that shows.
heres my torch
i had a little go on the 316 stainless im making my exhaust from
after welding bits jump of it and a little wire brush shows its full of little holes
and heres on the inside
so im guessing i still have a gas problem. when i press the button on the torch i can feel the gas coming out. Ive tried both end caps and also tightly wrapping duct tape around the back cap incase it was leaking. Ive still to get a peashooter on the end of the torch and see what that shows.
pc18
Member
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- 131
updates! well i rang a guy who tunes cars and has a dyno. he also does a lot of fabricating of custom parts for cars like turbo exhaust manifolds, inlets, intercoolers pipework ect. so he does alot of tig welding to a high standard. i took my welder and bottle through and he had a go with it. it seemed like gas was getting through when pressing the torch button but after that very little at all. so i took the covers off the machine and he checked the voltages going to the gas valve while pressing the button and the voltage was there so we knew that was working ok. after checking a few other things it turns out the adapter i was given for connecting the regulator to the gas pipe had a ball or something inside it so very little flow could get through it. it was drilled out and now my machine is working great! He has a big transformer tig but he said my machine welded nice and he did a bit of some aluminium too. then i had a few goes and he gave me some tips and helped me have a go with some 316 and aluminium. im well chuffed now so hopefully i should get on alot better with it! 
inchpincher
2-stroke terror
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Happy days, it'll seem like plain sailing now!
it can only get better from now on, good luck.Alex-the-tig
New Member
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You need to use PTFE tape on all of the gas fittings to ensure a good seal. As for torch gas I rarely use numbers. Lick your lips and hold the torch I front of your mouth. The gas shouldn't be rushing neither should it be trickling out ( try different settings on stainless to see the discolouration) the tungsten should be sharp to a decent point and for a flat butt weld on the bench protruding roughly 6mm from the ceramic. You must maintain a good torch angle throughout the weld.
To weld the tube in your pic (and penetrate) I would set about 45 - 50 amps on a button torch. Do a test and adjust. If you had a foot pedal you could set say 65-70 as a max and fine tune as you weld.
I would use 1.2mm filler wire for that tube.
Position the job so that you are welding towards yourself .
Strike an ark and obtain the desired weld width ( after setting power)
Add a dab of wire to the front of the pool,
Move a bit,
Add a dab of wire,
Move a bit and so on.
After every movement physically stop to let the weld pool stabilise, dab the wire then move on.
To obtain the neatest weld, the distance moved between adding wire and the amount of wire added need to be consistent.
If you don't have the facility of gas backing, clamp copper sheet/ bar to the back of the weld, as tight up to the back of the joint as possible.
To weld the tube in your pic (and penetrate) I would set about 45 - 50 amps on a button torch. Do a test and adjust. If you had a foot pedal you could set say 65-70 as a max and fine tune as you weld.
I would use 1.2mm filler wire for that tube.
Position the job so that you are welding towards yourself .
Strike an ark and obtain the desired weld width ( after setting power)
Add a dab of wire to the front of the pool,
Move a bit,
Add a dab of wire,
Move a bit and so on.
After every movement physically stop to let the weld pool stabilise, dab the wire then move on.
To obtain the neatest weld, the distance moved between adding wire and the amount of wire added need to be consistent.
If you don't have the facility of gas backing, clamp copper sheet/ bar to the back of the weld, as tight up to the back of the joint as possible.
