So now the roof fits a little better.
And the steering wheel
yes, details. Its not that hard to get it right but i find a lot of people cant even see the imperfections.
Stripped both doors today and cleaned all the dodgy looking thickened copper grease out of the regulator and runners and re greased everything properly so the windows go up and down without putting strain on the mechanism and handles. New bonnet pull before it broke completely, ripped out the dodgy aftermarket alarm and immobiliser, SG test and listed stuff to look out for at the NEC next month.
So that's it really, most of the real niggles done for now and a coat of carnuba. As soon as I get some room in the workshop, it will be strip the interior out, check the floor and interior panels for rust, re finish the fascia, probably replace the outer sills as they don't fully pass the magnet test!! Then new interior trim panels, carpets set and seat cover sets ready for the spring.
Then the fun really starts. Hopefully it will be ok and not full of previous bodge upon bodge.
At least all parts are available ( well most parts)
Indeed. From visual, I suggest it was a pro resto but the dodginess starts post resto and hopefully skin deep. Lets see what we uncover. The previous owner did tell me his local merchant had to weld a patch in the floor about yay big for the MOT. Lets hope he's not a friend of schutz!!
Have you joined the MG owners club yet?, I was a member a few years ago and they seem to carry a decent amount of spares for most models.
I have indeed. More a business than a club, but much like this forum , incredibly well run and with great discouts. Well worth the annual fee.
By the Bye.
You know that situation where someone walks in and says nothings changed, what have you been doing all day?
Well heres one of the situations when one of the fixing studs broke off removing the quarter window from the door.
It formed part of the lock mechanism for the quarter window lever so I drilled out the rivets to reveal the plate with the broken stud on it.
Then drilled the centre of the original stud out. I have to admit, it was easier for me to replace with metric so I drilled out to 5mm then tapped it out and put in an M6 bolt.
I then cut off the top of the bolt and recessed it a little to enable me to puddle weld the top, linish out and reassemble
Had the rest of the afternoon to myself!!
Well I kinda got busy with the escort project and the summer ran a little longer than usual so it was left for a while before starting the project in anger.
I decided, even though it had an MOT till May, I would present it to my MOTer friend on the understanding he did a fine tooth comb job on it. Apart from the obvious outer sill dodginess that I saw when I bought him, and a fairly dodgy looking weld patch front n/s footwell, all he could report was rear spring hanger bushes shot and a tiny bit of play in the rack. Well pleased, I drove it one more time, my wife had a drive (few suspect gear changes!!) and then stripped it out ready for the new interior and washed all the stonechip and schutz out of the boot area revealing the original Pageant blue factory colour.
Whilst stripped, it gave me the opportunity to brace the door aperture prior to removing the sills and look for any more dodgy repairs or erosion of the shell but all I could find was a little grot inner front n/s footwell and rear n/s inner wheel arch tub.
I knew the outer sills were not too well and needed replacing but to do the job properly one would have to remove front wing, cut out lower A posts and rear quarter/B posts to put a full sill panel in, then weld all the panels back in. This is obviously a mammoth task so was hoping that all the extent of the rot was lower down at the bottom seam. Having cleaned the paint off the old sill to expose the rust, I decided I would be able to joggle in a repair sill to an inch below the chrome strip. (pheww)
Unfortunately, having removed the previous MOT repairers work at the footwell, it was found to be concealing more corrosion in the box section which would have to be removed completely to eliminate further corrosion.
Then we removed the lower section of the sill to reveal some light surface rust and holes on the front inner sill. I don't know why but i was surprised to find the inner sill was 14 swg steel. (I think ive got a lump of that somewhere)
As I said, if a jobs worth doing, chop it all out and start again!
Right, wheres those wheetobang boxes ive been saving, got some patch panels to make.
Whilst the purists, would probably butt weld a repair panel in, I cant be arsed with all the linishing and tapping so as I bought an air joggler for the escort, I just as well use it again now.
Working from the centre outwards to keep the panel from buckling and running off line, a series of spot welds gave it that battleship look.
Simply a case of filling in the gaps with more spot welds whilst quenching and moving up and down the whole length to get the least amount of heat distortion and therefore filler (I could say lead but I wont even try to insult you with bull)
All ready for skimming and priming once ive done the other sill.
As the kids say on their social media. BBL
wow, thats pretty impressive stuff. I guess once you get in there, there is little else to do but do it right!
thanks taking us through it...
I had a number of private messages from various members regarding more specific steps from start to finish, so I thought I would try an answer them all in pictures throughout the other side.
Having removed the MIDGET badge letters and the stainless trim strip, I flatted out the upper section of paint to be sure I was working with clean metal. I then marked a cut line.
Then cut away the main bulk of the old sill with a 1mm slitting disc on a grinder leaving the front and rear closing plates undisturbed and awaiting inspection for rot. The lower seam where the spot welds are, I again cut away with the slitter vertically leaving just the seam and its welds.
Ive probably used most of the 'spot weld' removing tools over the years with little effect or time saving efficiency. They tend to be in the form of a drill bit which can weaken the backing panel, and slip about all over the panel still missing the weld. It is on the very rare occasion that i would ever want to weld the panel back in to its original location using the same holes that I have one in my armoury. So the simple answer to me is remove the excess panel, run lightly over the weld area with a grinder or simillar to expose the lower point of the weld and simply grind it away to as far as the backing panel.
to give a nice clean finish ready for welding to.
Oh and bye the bye, this is how to NOT repair your rusty sill panel!!
Most replacement and all pattern repair panel come in a black cataphoretic coating which is really designed to prevent rust forming in storage/transportation. I always opt to remove it before fitting panels of any type to give me control of the paint system from bare metal. I just use a brush and a spray bottle of gun wash. Once clean inside and out. I mask the cut line having carefully measured to allow for about a 20mm overlap of the remaining original sill on the car.
Whilst its on the bench, using the original panel as a template, I carefully drill the holes for the Midget letters.
I can then find exactly the right location and clamp it in place.
Once happy with the placement, I fit a couple of clekos so it will always go back in exactly the same place each time I remove and replace it. You can do the same thing with self tapping screws.
Having also marked the extreme of the lower seam, I can estimate where the holes need to be for the puddle welding at the end of the fitting process.
These I mark and drill to 7mm every 35mm or so
The next step is to joggle (form a 1mm step) the remaining sill section on the car to accept the new sill panel. The tool needs access to both sides of the panel, so it stops where the closer panels are and I will the sill to form a butt weld here. Im very fortunate to also have in my armoury, an air joggler. To do the whole length of the sill with a hand tool would become agony towards the end!
I extend the edge of the joggled step and the butt welded edge up an inch with a pencil line so I can see it when I refit the sill.
then refit the sill and drop the marks back down to the exact point at which I want to trim.
Thus getting a really good fit.
I can now paint the inside and especially the sandwiched seam with weld through primer to give protection post welding. The inside of the sill will be fine till I get to injecting wax oil after its all stone chipped and sprayed. I also made a roughly shaped closer panel to weld in where the old one had rotted. It will be close enough that I can seal it up with seam sealer later to stop water getting in.
Final fit and with the use of clamps and a length of tile batten, I can put pressure at the right points to get an even and straight tight joint ready to weld.
A few well spaced stings along the length to tack it in place and I can remove the scaffolding and gradually so as not to generate too much heat fill in the spaces.
Not sure where that thumb nail came from or how to get rid of it but hey there it is.
At this stage, I like to stop welding and have a bit of a grind back to show better how progress is, if you are an amateur if you have completely missed the seam!! and where the remaining welds want to be.
After all there can be little more embarrassing than publishing a picture of your work and someone spots that one of the welds completely missed the seam!!
Anyroadup. Once the dots have all cone together, you end up with a seamless joint ready to finish off the puddle welds on the bottom seam.
Now, if anyone wants me, ill be the one at the back of the workshop covered in filler dust. Bye for now.
Nice work but one question.
As a B man I am to too strong on the way a Midget is put together. Would changing the whole outer sill panel involve removing the front wing?
Nice write up Norsa, I haven't got a Midget, but it's nice to how it's done. What you've done on there could be applied to most vehicles, not just a Midget, the principle is the same
Well done, keep up the good work
Absolutely. Its pretty much the same principle on any car that you are putting a part panel on.
Hi David. Likewise, I don't know the full workings of the B but know enough that castle rails are the bain and there are lots of overlaps on the sill and step. I remember Mark Evans showing us how its not done when he put an adjustable brace on the top of the door shut and the thing collapsed. NIGHTMARE. The midget to do the full sill panel would indeed require removing and replacing the front wing. Easy. about 8 screws I think and ill do it next year when I do the respray. The problem is, you also have to remove and replace the A pillar/panel and rear quarter panels to get the rest of it in and both are welded on. Therefore one would have to either replace all the quarters and As or cut in lower repair panels. Achieveable but very time consuming/unnecessary on mine so my only practical option was as shown. This is the remaining part of the sill i cut off.
Make any sense?
Great thread but what on earth have you been doing to that vice?'!
Man and boy I've had that vice and its had much abuse. more than once he's had his jaws welded together. Have two more on the main bench that get more respect. Thankyou for your concerns though
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