scottmk1
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On the other side of the wall where the yellowish pipe comes down
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I'm clearly missing something, the boiler is not in the kitchen, upstairs somewhere?
scottmk1
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No it’s in the loft
gaz1
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my advice is build your extension which would be the side wall up and fit the gas meter box at side of the house where the gas pipe only needs to come up on the outside and you can use an internal box as well.
With the box being at side of the house its just a quick repipe back up from the rear of the house and a new line can be fitted to the loft area from the rear through to the boiler for a direct new connection
ive red marked it so you can see where
With the box being at side of the house its just a quick repipe back up from the rear of the house and a new line can be fitted to the loft area from the rear through to the boiler for a direct new connection
ive red marked it so you can see where
RonMig
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Shouldn't the gas pipe be 14+inches below ground level?
When my house ('71) extension was built ('95) the gaspipe looked like your photo, maybe 2inches deep.
Of course, the builders fractured it
and the gas emergency team got there PDQ.
I was at work but they tried telling SWMBO we'd get an invoice for the repair - but she had been briefed by the builders and was ready for That!
Proper tail between legs job... They fixed it same day and - no invoice. After witnessing that "conversation" the builders knew to keep on her good side...
They were really nice, to be fair...
Our new meter box was installed later during the build, pretty much exactly as per Gaz1 says, above.
Neighbours had exactly same happen a few years later.
When my house ('71) extension was built ('95) the gaspipe looked like your photo, maybe 2inches deep.
Of course, the builders fractured it
and the gas emergency team got there PDQ.I was at work but they tried telling SWMBO we'd get an invoice for the repair - but she had been briefed by the builders and was ready for That!
Proper tail between legs job... They fixed it same day and - no invoice. After witnessing that "conversation" the builders knew to keep on her good side...They were really nice, to be fair...Our new meter box was installed later during the build, pretty much exactly as per Gaz1 says, above.
Neighbours had exactly same happen a few years later.
waddycall
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How do you know Gaz is correct??? Do you know what appliances he has in the house? 30kw Combi, gas fire, large range cooker? Maybe it needs to be 28mm? How long will the pipe be? How many tees and bends? I’m an ex gas engineer and came across far too many undersized supplies due to people using rule of thumb methods.
DAPPH
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Do such copper supply pipes have to be in an open ended copper sleeve as they pass through the wall these days , so the pipe can slide about due to variations in temperature ?
Gaz was correct when they said 22mm and I said " or larger ".
I have 28mm in my property not because I have many gas appliances more due to length of pipe run.
Like you I too have come across many undersized supplies.
There are specific sleeving tubes that fit relatively tightly. To loose fitting and you will get a cold bridge.
Its not to do with temperature variation as a gas pipe won't freeze and burst.
It shouldn't be a copper sleeve used as protection but a metal one and sealed on the outside as it enters the property.
The reason for this is in the event of a gas leak, you can smell it, open both ends you might not.
brightspark
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there sleeved and sealed both ends from the gas meter to inside in case of leak in the cavity .as if so god knows where the gas will end up and could ignite you havent to drill any holes in the cabinet for earth bonding unless it enters from the front bottom outside or next to the gas pipe in the duct and sealed
Only if internal should a gas sleeve be sealed both ends, from the outside in, one end only should be sealed.
brightspark
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DAPPH
as dyslexik as I'm daft
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Yep IIRC that's what my qualified gas fitter did 28 years ago when we took gas out to the garage Baxi heater . Got a shock to find a 15 mm copper tube running across the lounge off th kitchen internal wall cooker point to a wall mounted gas fire a few mm below level in the floor screed and punctured by the a nail in a carpet gripper it had been like that for about 12 years( 1980 from new build )
They are wrong, through adjoining rooms internally, both ends sealed, from outside in, usually end open to the outside but there is this train of thought and in practise where sleave enters from outside in, the internal side is left open.
You will know gas is only explosive when contained and a spark ignites it, hence open windows and doors then a leak is relatively safe, if open to the air you might not smell a leak if sealed to the outside.
On the other hand in the event of a leak it is preferable gas leaks to outside.
gaz1
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the one thing i will say is dig up your block paving and get your new drain manhole dug out while you can then you can get your new drain pipes in and then lintel over them so everything is on the outside
also if you dig a little wider you can get your new drains run around the property while you have that mini digger there
also if you dig a little wider you can get your new drains run around the property while you have that mini digger there
scottmk1
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Yes I’m doing that with the drains, I need the water supply out of the way first as the existing drains appear to also follow the same route out to the road, the area I’ve dug out is big enough to get the machine in and dig the foundations too. I’m waiting on the structural engineer to get back to me as the existing foundations are very shallow and I’m not sure how I go about integrating the new ones to the old ones
