ghound
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- Thread starter ghound
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Shox Dr
Chief Engineer to Carlos Fandango
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- 18,008
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- East Yorkshire
You can buy sticks of plastic, but different bike manufacturers use different plastic, and some of the sticks won't work, your best bet is get hold of some plastic from the same bike manufacturer and cut into strips. and use either a big iron or a hot air gun, V out from both sides and weld
Nice bike. A friend of mine ran one of these as his work hack for years. They do have a list of known problems, including water pump, snapping cam belts and weak starter sprag clutch.
http://www.flarefox.com/gilera/gens/FAQS.pdf
Useful links for spares?
http://www.bobwrightmotorcycles.co.uk/nordwestpriceguide.htm
There are also plenty of spare parts on sale on eBay for the Gilera Nordwest.
http://www.flarefox.com/gilera/gens/FAQS.pdf
Useful links for spares?
http://www.bobwrightmotorcycles.co.uk/nordwestpriceguide.htm
There are also plenty of spare parts on sale on eBay for the Gilera Nordwest.
JEZGUZ
Member
- Messages
- 1,062
As it happens ,I've got one as well!! The bodywork is notoriously fragile except for the first series , then they went and changed it for cheaper and more crack prone plastic. One way to minimise the cracks is to elongate the mounting holes to allow the bodywork to find a less stressed position and use larger headed dome head allen screws and plenty of rubber washers, and don't overtighten them. They don't like starting if the battery is low either. The inlet rubber can split and its a pig of a job getting a new one to go on, thats if you can find one, talk about rocking horse s$£t!! I tried Germany and Italy, Bob Wrights all without sucess and the ones on the bay were just as bad as the one that I had, until I found a bloke selling one less than 5 miles away. There is a Gilera Owners Club, their site has good info on known faults and cures, although there isn't much going on usually. Great bike for showing up more powerful stuff going through the twisties, have fun with it.
Jez
Jez
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 13,044
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- CX near Chesterfield
You can temporarily repair bike inlet rubbers with some sikaflex rubbed into the cracks. New rubbers go on easier with some WD40 sprayed on them.
Hardassfunk
Member
- Messages
- 14
For plastic welding i use some old panels and melt the plastic into the cracks using a soldering iron!,if the panel is split i use some alloy mesh that you use for holes in car bodywork simply sinking the mesh into the plastic by heating it using the soldering iron.A few years ago i did buy an expensive plastic welder which i ended up selling as i found using a soldering iron easier 
Heres a write up I did on repairing plastic panels for my bike forum.
http://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/showthread.php?t=1958
http://www.bikersoracle.com/thunder/forum/showthread.php?t=1958
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 13,044
- Location
- CX near Chesterfield
Can't read it if you're not logged in 
Hopefully a simple guide on How To!
First off check your plastic, most plastics used on bikes is ABS and has been for some time. This plastic can be remoulded and will actually stick together with heat. There are other types that once heated start to disintegrate, and rather than melt form a carbon residue.
Tools. I use a gas soldering iron, one with different heads. This one in the picture was £20 from Maplins. I tend to use the hot knife more often as the heat control is better. You may find your happier using another bit.
The little project I have pictured is off my R1. Its not going back on the bike as too much of it is missing. If youve every had your bike towed after an accident you will realise that the towing company dont worry about chucking parts in the bin, many of which could be used to fix a panel. So a little advise if you do put your bike down the road keep all the broken bits as some one will be able to put it back together and its often cheaper than a new panel.
First photo you can see the multiple cracks they wont fit together because part of the failure is due to plastic deformation. So I had to file the edges to get the two parts back together again in the right place.
So once the craks fit together rub the paint off. The paint debris will stop the weld from taking properly and make your eyes sting! You start by holding the pieces together in the correct place and spot welding. Start from the begining of the crack and every inch or so place the tip of the iron on the plastic. It will start to melt. If its in the right place the two sides will melt at the same time and you can 'stir' the two puddles of plastic together forming the weld. Dont go too heavy. You will notice that you end up with a hollow. Dont worry we will fill this in later.
After you have done your tack welds let the plastic sit for a moment and cool down. Now start back up at the top and use the iron to weld the two sides together. Making small circular movements down the crack. If it starts to get too hot back off and let it cool. You will know if you heat it too much as the plastic will go hard and crusty.
When your welding you want to try to weld half way through from the top and from the bottom. This will mean that when finished you will have a full thickness weld. Now for some welds its worth while only welding from the back to save the paint. If you do this you should really use some fibre glass reinforcement in the inside. Just scuff up the area after youve welded and layer some on.
I would normally do the tack welds and first weld on the inside of the panel first. The only exception would be if I was having difficulty aligning the two halves, in the pictures I have done it to show you.
Now its time to finish the weld. I keep old bits of panel to use as filler rods. I cut strips off the old panel and strip the paint. In the photo you will notice that I have left the yellow paint on, thats so you can see the difference between the filler and the panel.
Heat up the area with the iron and feed the filler rod into the hollow. This will start to melt. Circular movements again mixing the two sides with the new material. Work your way down the crack. If youve done this properly you will have a proud weld line. This needs to be done front and back. I generally leave the back weld line proud. No need to get rid of the extra structure.
Sorry for the crappy pictures but it difficult trying to do the work and take piccies at the same time.
On the outside i use a dremel to flaten it off and then apply a small wipeing of filler for any small pockmarks. I havnt bother here as the mud gard will go into my filler rod pile as the tow company never picked up the bits from the road...
First off check your plastic, most plastics used on bikes is ABS and has been for some time. This plastic can be remoulded and will actually stick together with heat. There are other types that once heated start to disintegrate, and rather than melt form a carbon residue.
Tools. I use a gas soldering iron, one with different heads. This one in the picture was £20 from Maplins. I tend to use the hot knife more often as the heat control is better. You may find your happier using another bit.
The little project I have pictured is off my R1. Its not going back on the bike as too much of it is missing. If youve every had your bike towed after an accident you will realise that the towing company dont worry about chucking parts in the bin, many of which could be used to fix a panel. So a little advise if you do put your bike down the road keep all the broken bits as some one will be able to put it back together and its often cheaper than a new panel.
First photo you can see the multiple cracks they wont fit together because part of the failure is due to plastic deformation. So I had to file the edges to get the two parts back together again in the right place.
So once the craks fit together rub the paint off. The paint debris will stop the weld from taking properly and make your eyes sting! You start by holding the pieces together in the correct place and spot welding. Start from the begining of the crack and every inch or so place the tip of the iron on the plastic. It will start to melt. If its in the right place the two sides will melt at the same time and you can 'stir' the two puddles of plastic together forming the weld. Dont go too heavy. You will notice that you end up with a hollow. Dont worry we will fill this in later.
After you have done your tack welds let the plastic sit for a moment and cool down. Now start back up at the top and use the iron to weld the two sides together. Making small circular movements down the crack. If it starts to get too hot back off and let it cool. You will know if you heat it too much as the plastic will go hard and crusty.
When your welding you want to try to weld half way through from the top and from the bottom. This will mean that when finished you will have a full thickness weld. Now for some welds its worth while only welding from the back to save the paint. If you do this you should really use some fibre glass reinforcement in the inside. Just scuff up the area after youve welded and layer some on.
I would normally do the tack welds and first weld on the inside of the panel first. The only exception would be if I was having difficulty aligning the two halves, in the pictures I have done it to show you.
Now its time to finish the weld. I keep old bits of panel to use as filler rods. I cut strips off the old panel and strip the paint. In the photo you will notice that I have left the yellow paint on, thats so you can see the difference between the filler and the panel.
Heat up the area with the iron and feed the filler rod into the hollow. This will start to melt. Circular movements again mixing the two sides with the new material. Work your way down the crack. If youve done this properly you will have a proud weld line. This needs to be done front and back. I generally leave the back weld line proud. No need to get rid of the extra structure.
Sorry for the crappy pictures but it difficult trying to do the work and take piccies at the same time.
On the outside i use a dremel to flaten it off and then apply a small wipeing of filler for any small pockmarks. I havnt bother here as the mud gard will go into my filler rod pile as the tow company never picked up the bits from the road...
Last edited:
Ever consider fitting a electric water pump?
Take a look at http://pbmagforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=19476&hl=Water+pump
Take a look at http://pbmagforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=19476&hl=Water+pump
ghound
Member
- Messages
- 316
Thanks everyone, all help greatly received
Oddly enough an electric pump was my next thought. I had looked at on of these in line type
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motor...ies_Craig_EBP_Electric_Water_Pump/423/0/48769
I bought a bearing yesterday to fit a dummy pump as such, so as it will hold the cam belt where it's meant to be, can you see any problems with this idea?
I don't know if i should keep the bike as standard as possible, or to fighter it a little as the plastics aren't great??? maybe i have been watching too much american chopper
Oddly enough an electric pump was my next thought. I had looked at on of these in line type http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motor...ies_Craig_EBP_Electric_Water_Pump/423/0/48769
I bought a bearing yesterday to fit a dummy pump as such, so as it will hold the cam belt where it's meant to be, can you see any problems with this idea?
I don't know if i should keep the bike as standard as possible, or to fighter it a little as the plastics aren't great??? maybe i have been watching too much american chopper
