James1979
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I have never ever done that
- Thread starter Wolf1608
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stuvy
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Iv brought your old cars if that’s the caseI have never ever done that
James1979
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I am what you would call a final user.Iv brought your old cars if that’s the case
premmington
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I have never ever done that
Not sure myself at 300mm from a suspension mount or seat belt mount - "panel adhesive" maybe an acceptable repair? It does stick - trust me - it really does.
At less than 150mm - double the panel thickness - welded - would be my answer! - But how could you enforce it.
My debate is MIG brazing - this is an expensive process and "too expenisve for salvaging - end of life MOT failures". But it is good for "patching" - no panel distoratation. Goes in fast and does not blow holes in thin panels. It is strong too...
I'm 52. Been driving since 17. Always repaired my own cars - and back then some of them were more than a little rusty.
Never ever had a test refused due to underseal or paint being applied, or even had it mentioned.
I've never even think of taking a repaired car back unless painted and undersealed to protect it.
Also not had a car I presented for a test fail for a very long time - it's not exactly a strenuous test of a semi-decent road worthy car.
Retest on a repair. Not a full test.
I've not had one refused either. But was on the understanding a repair should not be under sealed for retest.
I used to love going for mot's when I was a kid. Sit in the car and get lifted up on the ramp. Wouldn't happen nowadays...
Looking back they probably just kept me in there to keep me outta the way.
Not even for the retest back when I hadn't worked out a bit of preparation went a long way to avoiding problems in the first place.
Need to find the right garage . . . I've been up in the air, and quite often through the rollers - his feet don't really fit my Caterham - well, not much of the rest of him does either
Not that keen on the LHD in two of the others either.I seem to have always got on with the guys testing my cars - they've always been unusual or not very common (the cars!), and they've always been happy to chat and for me to have a look underneath myself.
Yeah I get on with a few of the testers around here. I got offered a job off one guy when I was 16 to go welding for him he was a garage and test center. I was lined up to go to college at the time.Need to find the right garage . . . I've been up in the air, and quite often through the rollers - his feet don't really fit my Caterham - well, not much of the rest of him does either
I seem to have always got on with the guys testing my cars - they've always been unusual or not very common (the cars!), and they've always been happy to chat and for me to have a look underneath myself.
I got shouted to the station once on one repair. He didn't realise until I got there that I'd done it. Greeted with a "how the f did you do that!!! " thinking it was some kind of botch. Only query I've had on a repair. The repair was on a back axle/subframe of a 4x4 mitsubishi thing. Hammered a bit of tube in and welded around it.
Place I go to just does tests. They don't fix anything all classes.
I seem to remember that the 'no underseal on repairs before a retest' rule is relatively recent, perhaps in the last 10 or 15 years?
I've been repairing classic cars for a living for the last 40 years almost, and back in those early days, any welding was always blacked up before going for a retest, and nothing was ever said by testers then, as it was the norm. I've used the same MOT guy for almost that entire period too, so it's safe to say he knows my standards, and wouldn't be bothered if I presented something that had been welded with the repairs already painted. But I do have vague recollection of comments some years ago along the lines of the rules changing to say that welded repairs had to be presented unpainted.
Coincidentally, I've just completed some welding on a Daimler V8 250, and I've painted it before going for the test, simply because I don't want to have to put it back on the ramp after it's been tested. But I know he'll be fine with it as he knows I wouldn't bodge it up.
I've been repairing classic cars for a living for the last 40 years almost, and back in those early days, any welding was always blacked up before going for a retest, and nothing was ever said by testers then, as it was the norm. I've used the same MOT guy for almost that entire period too, so it's safe to say he knows my standards, and wouldn't be bothered if I presented something that had been welded with the repairs already painted. But I do have vague recollection of comments some years ago along the lines of the rules changing to say that welded repairs had to be presented unpainted.
Coincidentally, I've just completed some welding on a Daimler V8 250, and I've painted it before going for the test, simply because I don't want to have to put it back on the ramp after it's been tested. But I know he'll be fine with it as he knows I wouldn't bodge it up.
premmington
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It is not even that recent mate as rules go. It is just not a rule - in the testers handbook.
The testers handbook says and I quote "If you cannot tell which the repair method, you should accept the repair and tell the vehicle presenter."
It does not say "no underseal on repairs before a retest".
To be honest any tester who enforced this "in house made up rule" - would end up getting suspended from testing sharpish by DVSA.
Pass and advise...
Takes as long to bodge as it does to do a proper repair imho.
Unless you are turning over cheap cars with no concern over their safety I can't see why you wouldn't do a decent repair.
I did a Minibus a while back, all patch panels seem welded, bottom of sills plug welded (as original) and that went straight through a test.
Gave it a light coat of paint so they could.see the repairs and seam sealered it when it came back.
Same with my Golf project, could have bodged that with tiger seal, rivets and fake welds but what's the point, a lot of work and it would still be knackered underneath..
Unless you are turning over cheap cars with no concern over their safety I can't see why you wouldn't do a decent repair.
I did a Minibus a while back, all patch panels seem welded, bottom of sills plug welded (as original) and that went straight through a test.
Gave it a light coat of paint so they could.see the repairs and seam sealered it when it came back.
Same with my Golf project, could have bodged that with tiger seal, rivets and fake welds but what's the point, a lot of work and it would still be knackered underneath..
Nice thread and to have clarification. My 22yo LDV is steadily ending up with more plates in it than a Banquet Dinner Service set.... and I've just found I've got some more to do (rotten x-member from near the chassis rear spring hanger across to the Sill, and the chassis rail section near it feels "a bit crunchy" as well ).
I've been seam-welding in repair sections (no body panels available for a Convoy any more that I know of) and then undersealing over, and theyve been accepted.
I think my (not pretty) welding efforts are getting better (they needed to!)
).I've been seam-welding in repair sections (no body panels available for a Convoy any more that I know of) and then undersealing over, and theyve been accepted.
I think my (not pretty) welding efforts are getting better (they needed to!)
Nice thread and to have clarification. My 22yo LDV is steadily ending up with more plates in it than a Banquet Dinner Service set.... and I've just found I've got some more to do (rotten x-member from near the chassis rear spring hanger across to the Sill, and the chassis rail section near it feels "a bit crunchy" as well
I've been seam-welding in repair sections (no body panels available for a Convoy any more that I know of) and then undersealing over, and theyve been accepted.
I think my (not pretty) welding efforts are getting better (they needed to!)
We might be selling our LDV if you need a spare one!, 35,000 miles Minibus conversion..
Still MOT'd, need rid before January really.
Thanks for all the replies, it matches my own thoughts. As for the surface coatings after the repair I am edging towards some decent primer then paint on the visible bits with a paint coating and a thin coat of waxoyl before the test. If I don't protect it straight away I just know it will go to the bottom of the list and never get done.
As for it failing, I put it in knowing it would fail but needed the bit of paper to push the van up the priority list.
I do think the tester, a new, young guy at the same place I have been taking my 3 vehicles to for the last 6 years took it a bit too far! He's not just punched through with a screwdriver he's dug around and yanked at it with probably pliers. He was expecting me to ask how much as there was a business card on top of my paperwork on the desk when I went to collect it that disappeared when I told him I would do it myself. Grrr
Matt.
As for it failing, I put it in knowing it would fail but needed the bit of paper to push the van up the priority list.
I do think the tester, a new, young guy at the same place I have been taking my 3 vehicles to for the last 6 years took it a bit too far! He's not just punched through with a screwdriver he's dug around and yanked at it with probably pliers. He was expecting me to ask how much as there was a business card on top of my paperwork on the desk when I went to collect it that disappeared when I told him I would do it myself. Grrr
Matt.
James1979
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Can’t do that!!!
Corrosion assessment tool or nothing I’m afraid.
The ministry definition is “yields to light finger or thumb pressure” or near as dammit from memory.
I go a bit further with the HGVs and give them a good thwack with the tapping hammer but that’s because it’s more safety critical (bigger, heavier, works harder etc etc) but if someone said something I’d have no real excuse. I also like to fail them so when they get to the MOT the work is already done.
I’m only inspecting them as MOTs are done by DVSA and they just do a light tap.
Edit. Just re read that. I don’t enjoy failing them. What I mean is that I would prefer one failed with me than in the MOT test lane.
it actually says on the form here ,, repairs to be left clean for inspection ,,, last one I did was an Aston Martin , and I gave the repair a coat of clear varnish to keep the rust out , and it was still good for inspection
again in NI mots are not done in local garages but in big test centers like psv in england ,, its a pita as at the moment its about a three month wait to get a date , it was nearly six months but they are catching up now ,
the mot centers were used for covid stations so the mots were cancelled and exemptions issued to those who needed an mot ...
the trick here is to get the repair done before the mot and then schutz it , if it didnt fail on it , it does not need to be inspected , so '' less pretty'' may just be the answer ,,, personally I dont do less pretty , I just work to one standard ,and folk pay it , or they dont ,,, I really dont mind .
I weld land rovers ,,,, I will never be short of work.
again in NI mots are not done in local garages but in big test centers like psv in england ,, its a pita as at the moment its about a three month wait to get a date , it was nearly six months but they are catching up now ,
the mot centers were used for covid stations so the mots were cancelled and exemptions issued to those who needed an mot ...
the trick here is to get the repair done before the mot and then schutz it , if it didnt fail on it , it does not need to be inspected , so '' less pretty'' may just be the answer ,,, personally I dont do less pretty , I just work to one standard ,and folk pay it , or they dont ,,, I really dont mind .
I weld land rovers ,,,, I will never be short of work.
The problem with "having a spare Convoy".... is that they take up rather a lot of space that I don't really have
.Also, if I had lots of money, arguably I wouldn't be running/welding a 22yo LDV
(actually I do like it's agricultural simplicity [2.5di] & it meets my needs well - but it'd be nice to have less disintegration). 