premmington
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- Norfolk
They're certainly handy but they frustrated me endlessly because they'll mark the pipe on the back side because the pipe has no radial support where it comes in tangent to the radius and it needs that support to react the bending forces. I tried a blend radius to take the sharp edge off but it still marked the pipe wall.
Many will see the pipe straightener as an extravagence but it's £40 well spent if you want your pipe to look nice. I've had mine a long and it still makes me smile when I use it. I've looked at those copy clamps before and it does look like they make copying pipes much easier.When I restore my MBs, I replace all fuel and brake pipes with Kunifer - some useful tools -
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Can you guys tell me what flaring tools you're using?
I might have a brake job coming up.
Fair play that is outstanding work. My view when working to that level is a roll of pipe is £20 so if I have to make a second pipe to make it perfect then it's no great loss. I just know it will always bug me so I'll just do it again.If you want to make a really nice looking job of it, as per Joepro's above, the pipe straightener really is essential.
I made one myself from some ally angle, a dozen bearings and some turned sleeves for the bearings. My advice to anyone else would be just buy oneThey weren't £20 when I made mine, more like £50. I tried it with just the bearings to start with and it put facets on the OD of the pipe, but I'd sunk enough time at that point that it was worth making the semicircular sleeves for the bearings. It really does improve the finish of the job no end though.
As for galvanic corrosion, it only occurs in the presence of an electrolyte. An assembled joint is gas tight. I wouldn't worry about any corrosion on the sealing faces.
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Have you not got a pyrotenax straightener? That's what I use on brake pipesGosh, the last time I did some break pipes on my van, (about 6 months ago)
I used a piece of wood with a hole in it just slightly larger than the pipe to bend, shape and straighten the pipes.
Old skool method, I've done it in the past with 20mm galv conduit and no bender on site.
Needs must n all that![]()
Yes I have somewhere, not had any pyro work in years.Have you not got a pyrotenax straightener? That's what I use on brake pipes![]()
Hi I have some brake pipes to replace on a kia carens,the corroded parts are all where the steel comes out of the flexi,is it acceptable to make joins in the wheel well ?
To get at the pipe further in would require a major dismantling of the subframe.
Take into account I'm doing my mot in Northern Ireland.
Thanks.
This is my setup after running inboard brake lines, never had an issue with MOT.
Ive done some short ones in arches in NI and had no bother with them ,,, although if possible I do try to get them behind the arch liner etc to get them out of sight.Thanks ,if acceptable over here it will save a enormous amount of dismantling.
got my pipe straightener for £18.99 from ebay, might help someone outMany will see the pipe straightener as an extravagence but it's £40 well spent if you want your pipe to look nice