fixerupper
Member
- Messages
- 1,682
- Location
- Crete Greece
It looks like you have it covered smash, I know nothing about horses apart from , a leg on each corner, one end eats sugar lumps the other doesn't ....
- Thread starter smashweld
- Start date
gavcarter
Member
- Messages
- 458
- Location
- Hartlepool
When I've been chucking things together and found them needing stiffening I've used gussets quite a lot.
Easy to do and fasten (or weld)
Can be done from from box, square timber or sheet metal or ply depending on what the frame is made from.
I usually do outer 4 corners then decide if it needs more.
The bigger the gusset the stiffer it gets.
Easy to do and fasten (or weld)
Can be done from from box, square timber or sheet metal or ply depending on what the frame is made from.
I usually do outer 4 corners then decide if it needs more.
The bigger the gusset the stiffer it gets.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
- Messages
- 13,078
- Location
- CX near Chesterfield
Panel it in with lots of rivets into the centre section.Wildefalcon
Member
- Messages
- 2,573
- Location
- Gloucestershire, England
Horses lean against the centre partition in horse boxes. Any metal structure that is thin enough for a box will definitely deform.
The suggestion of fibre glass waffle board is very good, but sheet it with ply at horse **** height to prevent damaging the coat of the horse.
Thick waffle board won't deflect as much as metal.
Plus you can use it under the wheels when you get stuck in a muddy field.
The suggestion of fibre glass waffle board is very good, but sheet it with ply at horse **** height to prevent damaging the coat of the horse.
Thick waffle board won't deflect as much as metal.
Plus you can use it under the wheels when you get stuck in a muddy field.
With animal transport its its a creating as little movement as possible
Whilst a horse heavy if there is no room for movement there wont be impact only the slight preasure as the horse sways
If you look at the centre partition of ifor horse boxes there isnt alot there atall cant remember exactly but i know there is 1 pole top to bottom of the box about scafold tube size inline with the rear quarter of the horse and board think it is about 18mm plastic coated ply type stuff extending forwards
What the op is sugesting is serious engineering in camparison
Even stock wagons arnt as well engineered as that they have far bigger centres on the outside walls and they stop whole heards of cattle escaping
Its far more important the animal is tightly fitted in for both the animal and the trailers sake
Whilst a horse heavy if there is no room for movement there wont be impact only the slight preasure as the horse sways
If you look at the centre partition of ifor horse boxes there isnt alot there atall cant remember exactly but i know there is 1 pole top to bottom of the box about scafold tube size inline with the rear quarter of the horse and board think it is about 18mm plastic coated ply type stuff extending forwards
What the op is sugesting is serious engineering in camparison
Even stock wagons arnt as well engineered as that they have far bigger centres on the outside walls and they stop whole heards of cattle escaping
Its far more important the animal is tightly fitted in for both the animal and the trailers sake
What I've seen in most horse boxes is a simple 40x40x3 steel box frame with 16mm ply mounted inside the frame on tabs. There are upright bars that connect to the roof & floor with spring loaded bolts plus a piece that goes across the trailer at the horses chest height that helps stop the divider bowing.
Gareth J
Member
- Messages
- 3,828
- Location
- North Cornwall
I've not had chance to get my head fully around this but I think it seems you're going too heavy.
Look at proprietary designs.
Most will be a simple frame with the majority of the strength coming from the external horse box and some cladding.
Keeping it light is important, both in terms of removing it yourself and keeping the cog of the 'box down.
Corrugated sheet or ply is has really good stiffness Vs cost Vs weight and I would aim to use that to your advantage.
As above, ply is probably best as it's good in all directions and doesn't have sharp edges.
Look at proprietary designs.
Most will be a simple frame with the majority of the strength coming from the external horse box and some cladding.
Keeping it light is important, both in terms of removing it yourself and keeping the cog of the 'box down.
Corrugated sheet or ply is has really good stiffness Vs cost Vs weight and I would aim to use that to your advantage.
As above, ply is probably best as it's good in all directions and doesn't have sharp edges.
8ob
Member
- Messages
- 14,216
- Location
- Nescient in the vale
In swmbo`s box the partitions are only solid at the horses waist height, the partitions have hanging rubber or plastic below this so if a horse goes down there is somewhere for its legs to go. If its all solid and cant be moved you would need a crane to remove the animal. it will be back later so I will take some snaps of the partitions.
Bob
Its not my Vet before you ask
Bob
Its not my Vet before you ask
It still seems people are over estimating the impact against these bars everything needs to be as tight as possible for the horse
Some of the bigger horse boxes (i dont know if 8ob wifesone is like this ) will stand the horse across the vehicle the when the gates close up they have several positions to secure the gate to make the optimal size compartment for the horse for its own safety aswell
Think of it like putting a egg in an egg box and shaking the box there will be no damage to the box or the egg
Put that same egg in a thin walled cardboard box shake it and both the egg and the box will be damaged
It also means the less movement of the stock the less instability they can cause to the vehicle
And round tube might be better in this situation and go slightly bigger therefore there wont be promenent edges to bruise the animal
The pole in ifor horse boxes is 50mm i think
Some of the bigger horse boxes (i dont know if 8ob wifesone is like this ) will stand the horse across the vehicle the when the gates close up they have several positions to secure the gate to make the optimal size compartment for the horse for its own safety aswell
Think of it like putting a egg in an egg box and shaking the box there will be no damage to the box or the egg
Put that same egg in a thin walled cardboard box shake it and both the egg and the box will be damaged
It also means the less movement of the stock the less instability they can cause to the vehicle
And round tube might be better in this situation and go slightly bigger therefore there wont be promenent edges to bruise the animal
The pole in ifor horse boxes is 50mm i think
Hopefuldave
Intergalactic pot-mender
- Messages
- 2,492
- Location
- The Shed of Danger, surrey, England
Can you add another bar at right angles to one end across the width of the box/trailer (away form the horsebox ramp!) and triangulate from that end of the divider down to the top corners of the T? that might help it stand up to a horse leaning on it, otherwise there's only going to be the bolts holding it down to resist that load.
Dave H. (the other one)
Dave H. (the other one)
thanks all...the question was really about getting the most strength from a thin frame without adding excess weight (particularly if adding diagonals/triangulation helped which @piman and @fixerupper confirmed was a no) but I appreciate all the replies!
gaz1
Member
- Messages
- 20,353
- Location
- westyorkshire
you need to consider less weight
id be looking at a light design but strong
even at 40mm width this reference can be used by using flat bar
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/new-lean-to.73677/
id be looking at a light design but strong
even at 40mm width this reference can be used by using flat bar
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/new-lean-to.73677/
angellonewolf
Member
- Messages
- 8,903
- Location
- bristol england
