slim_boy_fat
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- Thread starter TommyB
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Ali
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I’m pretty sure there are purpose made bodywork files for this exact thing, you’d just need a very coarse one. Maybe a panel beater will chip in.
anto44
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Something like this might work for you, I've seen them fitted with some very aggressive files.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DLT2AS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IJeODbEZHQ598
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002DLT2AS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IJeODbEZHQ598
AndersK
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Yes they eat aluminium. That holder is for curved surfaces and you adjust it to bend the file. Bend too much and it shatters...
I made a fixed holder to get it rigid and a smaller one for the shattered one
Great for deburring.I usually use the body files for fine tuning. but starts with flap discs. The Norton Quantum discs do really good on aluminium
Can be quite brutal with them and even if they get a silver look they still eat good.
If you're only taking the top off the welds the file would probably be a good alternative though.
Ali
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Yes they eat aluminium. That holder is for curved surfaces and you adjust it to bend the file. Bend too much and it shatters...
I made a fixed holder to get it rigid and a smaller one for the shattered one
I usually use the body files for fine tuning. but starts with flap discs. The Norton Quantum discs do really good on aluminium
Can be quite brutal with them and even if they get a silver look they still eat good.
If you're only taking the top off the welds the file would probably be a good alternative though.
View attachment 195891 View attachment 195892 View attachment 195893
Serious tool envy, that’s lovely, woof woof!
Hey all, Just giving a very late update in case anybody else reads and is interested.
I did try a few of the different methods mentioned here (purchased a hand surform and tested that out, Made a jig for the pneumatic grinder with the blade that Henry suggested to take the tops off first), But in the end, I did find that it was quickest to throw on a 40 grit flap disc and just get into it! I got some "boelube" from the local welding store and dabbed that every couple of minutes which seemed to work wonders
I found that the cheaper Detroit brand seemed to take the most off and last the longest, which was handy. Now onto hull number 2!
Thank you all again for your suggestions, Tom
I did try a few of the different methods mentioned here (purchased a hand surform and tested that out, Made a jig for the pneumatic grinder with the blade that Henry suggested to take the tops off first), But in the end, I did find that it was quickest to throw on a 40 grit flap disc and just get into it! I got some "boelube" from the local welding store and dabbed that every couple of minutes which seemed to work wonders
I found that the cheaper Detroit brand seemed to take the most off and last the longest, which was handy. Now onto hull number 2!Thank you all again for your suggestions, Tom
Munkul
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Nice thread revival Tommy 
Like yourself, I find the easiest way is just to crack on with using flap wheels. I run a variable speed grinder at lowest speed (3000rpm) which helps a LOT, as it helps to stop the metal overheating and clogging. Now and again running the disc over a sharp edge of stainless offcut if it gets too clogged.
Like yourself, I find the easiest way is just to crack on with using flap wheels. I run a variable speed grinder at lowest speed (3000rpm) which helps a LOT, as it helps to stop the metal overheating and clogging. Now and again running the disc over a sharp edge of stainless offcut if it gets too clogged.
