Mobile welder needed nr Buxton Derbyshire

[Kris]

Hi - I came to this forum while searching for a mobile welder in the Buxton/New Mills area of Derbyshire. I am changing the timing belt on my Peugeot 406 diesel engine and discovered that the head of the tensioner bolt had been stripped. It is a bolt with a 5mm allen head. I can get purchase on it to tighten but not to loosen it. Access to the bolt is not great but with the engine raised up on a jack it is possible to see it. I would like to hammer in a splined drive to the soft metal head but I can't because there isn't room.

Is it feasible to weld a hexagonal nut to the head of the bolt so that I can put a socket on it? I have no experience of welding so I would need someone who could make a strong weld maybe using a mig welder. I've attached a photo.

Thanks

Chris

 

[the snooper]

i would think it would be hard to get the welding torch in there by looking at the picture if you dont get a good weld on it and the hex nut shears of it could make things even worse.

cant you strip off anything to reveal more of the bolt ?

 

[KTMMICK]

I am quite sure you will find that it is a 6mm Allen bolt which would explain your problem.
Have you taken the wheel off and the panel on the inner wing? You might be able to get purchase on it then!

 

[Kris]

No Snooper I can't easily strip any more off and I've jacked the engine up as far as I dare.

My Haynes manual says that it's a 5mm allen key, which fits snugly when you try to tighten but not when you try to loosen it. Someone else mentioned about an access panel on the inner wing but my 1997 406 2.1TD estate doesn't have one.

Cheers,

Chris

 

[naughtyboy]

try somewhere that repairs bikes they might set of extractors for cap heads.
we have a set at work but got them from snap on and they work a tret.
a m6 head uses a 5mm allen key.

 

[the snooper]

its not easy to see on the picture but if you support engine would the removal of the engine mount help

 

[Can'tWeld]

It does look like the engine mount is what's in the way.

If you can get better access to it molegrips might be the way to go. Failing that you might be able to use an ez-out on it. Again, access is the problem.

 

[Kris]

Yes, I do think there is more that I can remove, like the engine mount, now that I've looked at it again. Then I may be able to get at the head of the bolt.
I will have another go at it in the morning.

Thank you all,

Chris

 

[Bigjoe]

Its a right pig when bolts like that snap off,hope you manage to get to it Kris,keep us posted

 

[Rick]

If you can get with a hammer, hammer the size above torques bit in (Y).

 

[Kris]

More help needed for numpty mechanic.

Well, I've managed to remove quite a lot more bits and pieces from around the area that I'm working and I've taken the timing belt off. But in order to get to the timing belt tensioner locking bolt properly I need to remove the engine mounting bracket which is held in position by 3 hex head bolts, which I have removed, and what looks like an M6 bolt which is hollow and has a threaded hole in it. At first I thought it was another allen head or a spline but I can just screw an ordinary threaded bolt into it.

The photo shows the hollow bolt holding the engine mounting bracket to the engine and my test bolt which I used to screw into the hollow one which has a normal right hand thread.

Has anyone come across this type of bolt before and know the best way to remove it?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[pedrobedro]

Get a proper bolt and tighten it down against the hole that one goes through and see if it pulls it out or put a nut on the bolt inside the piece of bracket and lock it against the internal threaded thing then turn it out with the bolt. What does it hold on. have you got a manual for it ?

 

[chap]

Are you sure it's externally threaded? If it's plain on the outside, but threaded on the inside, it could be a dowel?!
What does the hole that your test pilot is dangling though do?... It could be there to jack the dowel pin out? Though it doesn't look very strong/well supported.

 

[Robotstar5]

If it's plain on the outside, but threaded on the inside, it could be a dowel?!
What does the hole that your test pilot is dangling though do?... It could be there to jack the dowel pin out? Though it doesn't look very strong/well supported.

We call them "extraction dowels" at work and use a sliding hammer to remove them

 

[chap]

We call them "extraction dowels" at work and use a sliding hammer to remove them

If that's what this is, there seems to be no room to use a slide hammer.
Not dowels, but i know some automotive water pumps have threaded holes to 'jack' them to remove from the block. Thought the same might be able to be used here?!

 

[M@tt]

you dont need to remove that part

if you've undone all the other securing bolts, just get a drift in one of the recesses on the top and give it a few firm taps with a hammer sideways.

It's just being held by a locating dowel (no.32 in this pic)

Also on Autodata it says the tensioner nut is accessible through a hole in the engine mount bracket rather than having to completely remove it. (although your pretty much there now anyway)