MLS2300 Torch Wiring - Should be easy

  1. benny_h New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    China
    Hi Guys,
    I have had all the wires cut on my torch and they are all black so no way to know how to reconnect.

    The plug is a Mil spec with pins "lettered" from A to F.

    It should be easy as there is only "on/off" and "power up/down" to connect.

    Can anyone give me some simple instructions - i.e. A to B is on/off etc?

    Thanks

    Ben
     
  2. Nothing is easy on Kemppi. Bear in mind that if your set is watercooled that the cooler might not work if wires cut.
     
  3. Gavin Melville

    Gavin Melville Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    christchurch, New Zealand
    i can check it out in the morning, about 12 hours from now. I only have a switch on my hand piece. This is the wiring for the foot pedal, note the resistor in the plug. Does your torch have the variable current control?

    The other thing you might find is trace numbers on the wires, they can be small.
     
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  4. Gavin Melville

    Gavin Melville Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    christchurch, New Zealand
  5. benny_h New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    China
    You Guys are awesome!

    There was no trace information on the wires and they were all black so THANKS KEMPPI for the "Joy of Welding"

    For technical information i have the TTC220 Torch with the RTC20 "Linear" current controller (an up down switch) that is really too hard to use while actually welding (at my skill level and projects i work on)

    The wiring diagram looks exactly what i need and i do not have any water cooling.

    Thanks also for the wiring diagram for the foot pedal, which was going to be my next upgrade. I have managed to find them on Taobao (China Amazon) for 230RMB (~25 Quid) so ill buy one and see how the wiring looks, it may even plug and play.

    Does anyone know how sensitive these plugs are to mis-connections, shorts etc? Can i blow the machine up if i get it wrong, even perhaps the wrong resistances? kinda seems like something Kemppi would do, to booby trap their own machines! Whats the resistance range on the foot pedal?

    On another subject, i have seen others ACX panels that have the "Microtack" light display. Mine doesnt but im sure i made it work somehow, possibly with a flashing light indication instead. Ill get the torch sorted and get it up and running again and play. How do you invoke the Microtack function on the machines that have the display?

    Thanks again

    Ben
     
  6. Gavin Melville

    Gavin Melville Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    christchurch, New Zealand
    I press and hold "Microtack" for 5 seconds. I then have some quick setup values to load, pulse length etc.
     
  7. Appyasme1

    Appyasme1 Member

    Messages:
    1,389
    Location:
    Lancashire
    Gavin is the Gugu of MLS 2300!!
     
  8. Appyasme1

    Appyasme1 Member

    Messages:
    1,389
    Location:
    Lancashire
    Sorry Gavin,Guru.
     
  9. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    18,091
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    I had a weldtec speedway built to suit mine by @Jim Davey
    He will know exactly where the pins should go as mine is water cooled and he had no issues getting it spot on.
     
  10. hgt001 New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Norway
    Gavin,

    the wiring-drawing you posted, is that for the R11F pedal?

    I have just recieved a SSC pedal for my Kemppi Mastertig MLS 4000, and
    it connects with a 7-pin connector and according to SSC it replaces the Kemppi R11F which is the correct remote for my MasterTig.

    Unfortunatly i can't set min and max range for the pedal. As I understand it the Mastertig only give access to min/max setting when a compatible controller is attached. The pedal works fine in MMA mode.

    Here is a link for the wiring of the SSC pedal.
    Can you see if should work out of the drawing?

    https://www.ssccontrols.com/wp-cont...rmation-Sheet-C880-0725-TIG-Foot-Controls.pdf

    Thanks
    Regards Hans
     
  11. Richard.

    Richard. Member

    Messages:
    18,091
    Location:
    Cambridgeshire
    I don't see why min/max wouldn't work.
    They shouldn't effect the pedal in any way as they are values set by the machine on the machine. The pedal is just a pot there to raise and lower the current. What that current is set to shouldn't be phased by the pedal at all should it?
     
  12. Gavin Melville

    Gavin Melville Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    christchurch, New Zealand
    Hi Hans,

    It's close but not the same. I'm not sure if the pullup resistor (10k) is needed or not.

    The foot control position wiring is the same. If it works in MMA then it should work for TIG.

    Are you able to measure the voltage across the switch when the pedal is not pressed ?
    (should be 5 volts DC) ?

    Likewise the voltage on the centre pin should vary from 0 to 5 volts. (that will be the middle terminal on the variable resistor in the pedal)

    Kind Regards,
    Gavin.
     
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  13. hgt001 New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Norway
    Hi
    I will see if I can measure tomorrow - it' night here now:)
    Can you access min/max when pedal is not connected?
    Is it also right to have access to set up and downslope even in pedal mode?

    Here is some info from Kemppi manual regarding remotes:

    image.png
     
  14. Gert-Jan Member

    Messages:
    21
    the Netherlands
    I know this is an old thread, but when you google on the internet, it looks like this is the only info you can find. I'm making a pedal for my Kemppi. This thread helped me further.

    In te drawings of Gavin, the switch is between 5V ref (G, the centre pin) and D. This didn't work on my machine (Kemppi Minarc TIG). I needed to switch it to ground, just like the drawing Hans posted. I also used a NO (normally open) switch, just to be precise. So without trying being an ass, I think that's a little error on the schematic (yellow post-its).

    The extra 10K resistor (also post of Gavin) was very useful information though. This resistor is used to recognize the pedal (in combination with the 10k pot). That would explain "and identification" from the previous post in this thread. Without this resistor the machine things it's just a remote pot like the R10. With the 10K resistor, my machine refuses to go in 4T modus when pedal selected, as it should. Without it it just goes into 4T mode, which is weird with a pedal :)

    Just wanted to share this info and make this thread complete.
     
  15. hgt001 New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Norway
  16. Gert-Jan Member

    Messages:
    21
    the Netherlands
    Certainly, between A and D, in parallel with the switch. The resistor on the photo that Gavin posted is 1% tolerance.

    Drawed the schematics. Just like Gavin did, the first one is from the backside. Just look at the letters on the connector.


    IMG_7887.JPG IMG_7888.JPG
     
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  17. hgt001 New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Norway
  18. Gert-Jan Member

    Messages:
    21
    the Netherlands
    You're welcome. So cool you can use this. I just noticed that you posted just recently, I only looked at the date of the first posts.

    0,6w is just fine. Hardly any current will flow with 10k.

    The connector is a Amphenol type, mostly clones are used. But you can unscrew them. The terminals are quite big, shouldn't be a problem. Make sure you don't contact other pins with the resistor ends.

    Or solder inside the pedal, would work also I think. Soldering inside the connector might reduce noise from the long cable, that might be an advantage I can think of
     
  19. hgt001 New Member

    Messages:
    9
    Norway
    Yes, it was very nice to get som help with this Gavin, Gert-Jan and the rest of you, - i will proceed next week after my vacation.
    Will report back if this was the solution for my problem.

    Hans
     
  20. Dennis Aspö

    Dennis Aspö Member

    Messages:
    935
    Location:
    Finland
    Not sure about this machine but on my home built pedal the big challenge for me was making the min/max circuit that was on the pedal, I have to flip a switch to remote controller mode and that disables the machine amperage knob.

    Mine is an older machine but looking at the modern RF-11 pedals they too have the min-max settings on the pedal. If I were to make the pedal without the min max setting and just a 10k resistor it would work but span the machines entire range of 10-300A and no possibility to adjust it. I was under the impression modern kemppis worked the same way.

    I suppose the pro of that is you can set a range between any two values, whereas on most other machines you can only set the max current.
     
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