Mitre shears

[ukracer]

Anyone got any views on mitre shears. I am having the devils own game trying to cut this UPVC beading that I believe is referred to as quarter round But I may be wrong)>

I have seen mitre shears advertised but as per usual the reviews vary from awesome to a loads of rubbish..
b and Q have some cheapones but I dont think they have a fence to push against when cutting.


I am grabbing a mitre block to see if that works but I think my problem is I am not actually fitting the beads flat with equal distance between top and bottom. I. e I think they are slightly rotated to fit neater in the gap.

 

[striker]

Can you not do it in a normal mitre/chop saw with a fine blade?

 

[ukracer]

Can you not do it in a normal mitre/chop saw with a fine blade?

Not sure. My chop saw is pretty ropey. But I think I have sussed whats happening.
You can place the beading flat on either edge or butted to the groove. Harder to get consistent.

And both ways give you massively different angles across the two planes.

 

[striker]

Yeah. You would need to hold it against the fence in the same plane as it's to be installed. I think that's called uPVC quadrant.

 

[Agroshield]

On a mitre saw, you can improve the accuracy by making a simple auxiliary fence/jig that makes sure the vertical bit in your photo stays vertical and the horizontal bit stays horizontal when you are cutting.

It would have a vertical leg, a horizontal leg and a little square bit (3DP?) to support the cut out section of the profile.

A bit like a right angle symbol:

File:Right angle.svg - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Then the mitre will be correct.

It is a similar problem to cutting plaster coving, except that coving is concave.

 

[Misterg]

I've used mitre shears to cut thin uPVC sections and they work very well for that, but I think the section in the photo would be too thick for them.

For heavier stuff, I use a multi-material blade in my mitre saw - wood blade snatches at PVC (yes, you can be careful, but sod's law dictates that it'll snatch the cut that really matters, and if it gets a proper hold, it's as scary as hell - which is why I now have a multi material blade...)

 

[ukracer]

I've used mitre shears to cut thin uPVC sections and they work very well for that, but I think the section in the photo would be too thick for them.

For heavier stuff, I use a multi-material blade in my mitre saw - wood blade snatches at PVC (yes, you can be careful, but sod's law dictates that it'll snatch the cut that really matters, and if it gets a proper hold, it's as scary as hell - which is why I now have a multi material blade...)

I purchased mitre shears from b and q and you are correct they are too small for the 45 degree angle. They cut the square ends though. That said you could not get the correct angle as it's hard to line it up.

I have set the STL printing but as I only guessed sizes it looks as it will be a touch small.its only going to take 56 mins so we shall see.

There are 3 places to twist the moulding flush right. Flush left and in the middle. It's not that stable in the middle position but that's how I need it to fit.

As I say testing is now on going.
Thanks to all who are helping and I hope a number of us can learn something from it.

 

[smashweld]

I forget now but had a bit of trouble with these in the past - don't think the 2 flat edges are at 90 deg like you say (to allow for glue/non perfect fitting?)

combination of the right angle/bevel angle on a mitre saw works laying them flat but tbh I think I ended up just running silicon for the job I was trying to do
it's the sort of thing that would be fine if you were doing it regularly...

 

[ukracer]

Yes I agree.
My chop saw is a bit ropey so buying a blade is not top.priority. But I am only looking to try and cut correctly as I might leave the roof lights with just beading and Silicon if it looks decent.

If it all looks a bit heath Robinson I have some 50mm plastic D profile trim.

It's as much to learn as getting the job completed quickly.