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hotponyshoes
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They are multi voltage, auto switching.
Single or three phase.
They will run from 230v so use that rather than a 110v transformer.
Single or three phase.
They will run from 230v so use that rather than a 110v transformer.
JOEPRO
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Great job thank you for reply
I had seen some of them with a dataplate that says 230v too. Ill check this exact welder tomorrow when I get to see it
hotponyshoes
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Have a good look at the data plate on the actual machine you are looking at.
Some of those older ones need a 65a supply or so to hit 300a on 230v.
If you only have a 32a outlet you'll be limited to an output of about 150a output (and reduced duty cycle) which is a bit limiting for a water-cooled aluminium setup unless you can hardwire it or fit a 64a socket?
The newer models will do 280-300a output from a 32a 230v supply.
Some of those older ones need a 65a supply or so to hit 300a on 230v.
If you only have a 32a outlet you'll be limited to an output of about 150a output (and reduced duty cycle) which is a bit limiting for a water-cooled aluminium setup unless you can hardwire it or fit a 64a socket?
The newer models will do 280-300a output from a 32a 230v supply.
Farside
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Looking at the data plate on the example - 240V split phase, as in the US (which accounts for the 2x 115V mention), or 400V phase-to-phase on 3ph system (like UK). Yes, it's basically a single phase machine from what I can make out.
Data plates are supposed to be simple, not weird and hard to understand.
Data plates are supposed to be simple, not weird and hard to understand.
hotponyshoes
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They will run from pretty much any supply you feed them.
The data plates on them can be confusing.
Some have a section with reference to a 110v but that's an output that you plug the cooler into.
The data plates on them can be confusing.
Some have a section with reference to a 110v but that's an output that you plug the cooler into.
JOEPRO
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You are correct that I see 2x visual styles on these models. The one im looking at being what I think is the older model as per post #1. (Large handles both ends at the top. The current models look a little different with a strap or one handle on top)
hotponyshoes
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Newer ones have a plastic front panel rather than a metal one.
DX versions also have a slot for an SD card (mentioning that as Miller are one of the very few who actually create updates and provide them free to the end user)
I'm not actually sure if they do a 300dx in the newer version. It might just be the 210 and the 280.
The current range (with the tft screen) has a 300 in it but that's £5k..
DX versions also have a slot for an SD card (mentioning that as Miller are one of the very few who actually create updates and provide them free to the end user)
I'm not actually sure if they do a 300dx in the newer version. It might just be the 210 and the 280.
The current range (with the tft screen) has a 300 in it but that's £5k..
hotponyshoes
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I think i would be a little wary of this.
My first question would be, if the seller has the technical ability to correctly identify the faulty part and has the time/funds to source a new part, why haven't they fixed it?
Even the older ones are worth good money and sell quickly so why haven't they got it running to maximise the return and make it easier to shift?
There could be plenty of genuine reasons for the sale.
On the other hand, the seller might not actually have a clue what's wrong with it and might just be including some random part in a miller box to get it out of the workshop.
You could ask for the part number for that replacement part and see if it's something that is likely to have failed.
Depends what sort of money they want for it I suppose.
You don't see many faulty ones for sale.
(I expect that's mainly because they are bulletproof) but the ones you do see make strong money. Certainly sell for more than I would pay just to have some spare parts on the shelf for mine so people must be fixing them up.
I've never needed parts for any of mine so don't know about availability. I suspect cost will be in line with the original retail prices of the machines which are astronomical (a new one is £7500)
Maybe get the parts list, pick a medium sized pcb or component, see if you can find it anywhere to buy.
My first question would be, if the seller has the technical ability to correctly identify the faulty part and has the time/funds to source a new part, why haven't they fixed it?
Even the older ones are worth good money and sell quickly so why haven't they got it running to maximise the return and make it easier to shift?
There could be plenty of genuine reasons for the sale.
On the other hand, the seller might not actually have a clue what's wrong with it and might just be including some random part in a miller box to get it out of the workshop.
You could ask for the part number for that replacement part and see if it's something that is likely to have failed.
Depends what sort of money they want for it I suppose.
You don't see many faulty ones for sale.
(I expect that's mainly because they are bulletproof) but the ones you do see make strong money. Certainly sell for more than I would pay just to have some spare parts on the shelf for mine so people must be fixing them up.
I've never needed parts for any of mine so don't know about availability. I suspect cost will be in line with the original retail prices of the machines which are astronomical (a new one is £7500)
Maybe get the parts list, pick a medium sized pcb or component, see if you can find it anywhere to buy.
JOEPRO
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OK so I got it home today - this is the data plate-
So it should take 230v single phase then right? (i was worried the data plate would only indicate 3 phase input) Id say 115v is shown as its a made in USA item so thats what they would use as main common single phase supply.
Edit - more info from the online PDF manual. As my data plate shows single and 3 phase then it must be a multi voltage unit. (Manual says there are also 3 phase only units)
So it should take 230v single phase then right? (i was worried the data plate would only indicate 3 phase input) Id say 115v is shown as its a made in USA item so thats what they would use as main common single phase supply.
Edit - more info from the online PDF manual. As my data plate shows single and 3 phase then it must be a multi voltage unit. (Manual says there are also 3 phase only units)
JOEPRO
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PS I got this Millar welder for scrap money. Inc the new part which appears completely wrong. But anyway I have the original parts that was most important and ill try and fix this machine.
Its a brute - weighs about 50kg at a guess.
£150 for all. Actually 2 welders. An ESAB tig said to be fully working
The sellers were nice people having a clear out. I think the machines will work out fine.
Its a brute - weighs about 50kg at a guess.
£150 for all. Actually 2 welders. An ESAB tig said to be fully working
The sellers were nice people having a clear out. I think the machines will work out fine.
JOEPRO
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OK so now I have got the welder.in my garage I can see that all 3x boards are correct and original to the machine.
Test fit
Nice condition now the filth is cleaned off.
Nothing is missing inside. The "New" board they had appears to have been repaired or reconditioned already. Mossfets have been replaced, tracks repaired and spares provided in the box. This looks like a HF board going by the large set of points.
I will use green UV resin to coat those repaired tracks before re assembly.
The welder is 1999 made. I see couple of small caps on the top board that are a little swollen. I am going to renew those now before they bust.
Then I think it'll be a case of a full clean out and build it up. Then fit a new 230v 32a plug and cable and make sure its correctly terminated. Then try turning it on and see if there is any life in it.
Test fit
Nice condition now the filth is cleaned off.
Nothing is missing inside. The "New" board they had appears to have been repaired or reconditioned already. Mossfets have been replaced, tracks repaired and spares provided in the box. This looks like a HF board going by the large set of points.
I will use green UV resin to coat those repaired tracks before re assembly.
The welder is 1999 made. I see couple of small caps on the top board that are a little swollen. I am going to renew those now before they bust.
Then I think it'll be a case of a full clean out and build it up. Then fit a new 230v 32a plug and cable and make sure its correctly terminated. Then try turning it on and see if there is any life in it.
JOEPRO
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It had a 3 phase lead on it and is very dirty inside having sat open for years in a commercial workshop.
So it'll take me a couple weeks as I get time to tinker at it and try to properly turn it on and test it. I will report back when I get that far. As said a couple of the small capacitors on this 26 year old machine are bulging. So I want to renew those too now before re-assembing it.
It is a seriously weighty machine. At least 50kg. Commercial grade gear I guess.
And yes it does have the american plug outlets on the back of it as you mention. (Front of it also says made in USA)
chrismac
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yes its heavy I carried a XMT up 6 flights of stairs, that brought a sweat on,
Hopefully it works out for you, would it be an advantage to fire it up to see if it actually turns on before spending money on odds and ends that look tired, I mean you could be pouring money into a dead horse,
Time to get on the Miller forum if your not already there.
There is a manual here:
The circuit diagram on Page 40 shows that the 3-phase inputs L1, L2, L3 connect to a 6-diode bridge rectifier, with the DC output powering the machine. A single-phase input with Live to L1 and Neutral to L2 will still produce a DC output, but at reduced power.
Below the rectifier there is an auxiliary transformer, which produces 18v, 115v, and 220v. The two primary windings can be connected in series or parallel by means of "W2" and "W2A". There is no mention of jumpers, so maybe the auto-voltage-sensing does this by relays "W1" and "W2" off the Control board, and those are the contacts?
The circuit diagram on Page 40 shows that the 3-phase inputs L1, L2, L3 connect to a 6-diode bridge rectifier, with the DC output powering the machine. A single-phase input with Live to L1 and Neutral to L2 will still produce a DC output, but at reduced power.
Below the rectifier there is an auxiliary transformer, which produces 18v, 115v, and 220v. The two primary windings can be connected in series or parallel by means of "W2" and "W2A". There is no mention of jumpers, so maybe the auto-voltage-sensing does this by relays "W1" and "W2" off the Control board, and those are the contacts?
